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| The flywheel bolt solution for 3800 (l67 & l32) swaps (Page 3/5) |
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Slammed
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JAN 27, 10:18 PM
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NO. No I am not. There is a VERY VERY BIG DIFFERENCE BETWEEN DRY AND LUBED TORQUE VALUES FOR EVERY SINGLE BOLT. This whole thread is about breaking phucking bolts. You wanna break a bolt, over torque it by 20% it. Which is exactly what you are telling people to do. I would venture to say that 99% of people have only lubed head bolts, which require thread and under the head,. You tell people to lube a bolt, that's what they will do. The torque value the instructions say are for a bolt with LOCTITE on it, which gives a DRY VALUE. You are wrong. End of story. I'm a machinist for christ's sake.
You even misstated the instructions once to someone else in the thread
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Originally posted by viperine:
I've been pondering options like this for my upcoming 3800 swap, Hoping to achieve 350 hp without an intercooler. Question here is, why would ARP list torque with their lube for a flywheel application? Thread locker is standard here, isn't it? And I'm awfully surprised at the cost of $20 per bolt. Seems more like the price for the whole bag.
| quote | Originally posted by BV MotorSports:
Edit, the right bolt, for the right application, with the correct TQ usually doesn't require thread lock.
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That guy sure thought you meant threads.[This message has been edited by Slammed (edited 01-27-2016).]
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Slammed
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JAN 27, 10:48 PM
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And that price is for the full 40 bolt bag. You can buy them separately for $3
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BV MotorSports
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JAN 27, 11:30 PM
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There is always someone on this forum that feels the need to **** on someones thread that was intended to help. You wanna whip out your e-peen, have at it. If I "misled" anyone, there is a link to the bolts AND THE DAMN INSTRUCTIONS per the people that made them.
As for the price. I have the emails for the conversation I had with Alex. I dont need you to tell me **** . I have the itemized prices for a purchase order. I know the EXACT price! IDGAF what you do for a living. Were you on the phone with ARP? Did you do the reserch? Did you get the purchase order? No? Then wave your little e-peen elsewhere.
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Slammed
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JAN 27, 11:33 PM
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That is directly from our shops ARP rep. You can also buy them online in single quantities
Edit: He quoted me for the 12CL. I don't know the difference. I'm not about s-talking. I just want accurate and safe information
It's a good idea. I'm just saying don't give bad instructions. Post the ones they have, not what you say[This message has been edited by Slammed (edited 01-28-2016).]
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Domtech
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JAN 28, 12:32 AM
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@Slammed, that chart you posted is for m10 x 1.5 and I believe he was talking about m10 x 1.0
That might be where the difference in torque is coming from.
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Slammed
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JAN 28, 12:42 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Domtech:
@Slammed, that chart you posted is for m10 x 1.5 and I believe he was talking about m10 x 1.0
That might be where the difference in torque is coming from. |
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The chart was to show the difference in dry and lubed. The standard increase of torque between coarse to fine thread from m5 to m12 is about 4%
I apologize for being a bittch. I don't want to derail your thread[This message has been edited by Slammed (edited 01-28-2016).]
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Adjustso3
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JAN 28, 11:12 AM
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According to the kit instructions you just put loctite 282 on the threaded portion of the bolt and then lubricate the bottom of the bolt head with the lube. Then torque in a cross cross pattern to 70 ft lbs. Just curious. Would it be better or matter if you torqued them down to a lower value first and then went to 70 ft lbs ? Or just go right for the 70 ft lbs ? I don't have metric bits or the two taps needed. Where is the best place to get them ? Thanks for all the time in research.
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Jncomutt
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JAN 28, 02:18 PM
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Any information on using washers with aluminum flywheels?
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BV MotorSports
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JAN 29, 02:19 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Adjustso3:
According to the kit instructions you just put loctite 282 on the threaded portion of the bolt and then lubricate the bottom of the bolt head with the lube. Then torque in a cross cross pattern to 70 ft lbs. Just curious. Would it be better or matter if you torqued them down to a lower value first and then went to 70 ft lbs ? Or just go right for the 70 ft lbs ? I don't have metric bits or the two taps needed. Where is the best place to get them ? Thanks for all the time in research. |
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http://www.mscdirect.com/
| quote | Originally posted by Jncomutt:
Any information on using washers with aluminum flywheels? |
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Its all about the wrenching head size. Seriously, call ARP and you want to try and speak with Art. Alex is the guy in the specialty fasteners department and wont be much help outside of that. Everything else, Art is the man and will spend the time to help you. Like I said, we chatted for 2 hours one night. I didn't look much into the aluminum flywheel even though I have a brand new SPEC flywheel collecting dust. You will need bolts 1/4" longer if you use one. However, IIRC there isn't much room between the head of the bolt and the clutch disc. On one of my many failed attempts I tried washers and they just touched the raised stamping on the clutch disc that holds the springs in place. Made an awful racket and marred the bolt heads a bit. It would only get worse as the clutch disc wore.
As for the price of the 5/16th fasteners, Slammed was quoted for regular ol' ARP bolts and not the custom age+ bolts. You have to get them through the specialty department and they really are $21 bucks a bolt. Even Art didn't know about them.[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 01-29-2016).]
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sardonyx247
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JAN 29, 05:43 AM
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If they tend to back out why not just safety wire them like real racecars do?
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