Parasitic battery drain- 88 Formula (Page 3/3)
theogre OCT 05, 06:44 PM

quote
Originally posted by V8 Formula:
I'll presume my test results show that the battery is OK?

But in disconnecting the wires from the power distribution block, it broke. So now I have a new one on order from e-bay. Here's the old broken one:

CLICK FOR FULL SIZE

2 post are not very strong and not connected to each other. Alt end connects both and loose stud can make that harder to joint others to bad stud.
Patrick OCT 05, 06:48 PM

quote
Originally posted by V8 Formula:

...seems low enough to possibly be one bad cell.



That's what I was thinking when I first read those voltage readings you posted.
Patrick OCT 05, 06:52 PM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

2 post are not very strong and not connected to each other.



Really? I could've sworn the alternator wire went to one post in my Formula and all the other wires at that terminal went to the other post. I'll have to take another look!
theogre OCT 05, 09:18 PM
Did you "Zero out" the clamp? Just how/where?
What meter? Link so I can search to look up manual.

Amp loads seem normal.
ECM and "radio" pulls max 35mA or 0.035A to keep memory alive to store code, presets etc.

Drain a battery over night or over a weekend is more like something drawing 100+ mA or 0.100+ A
Example: 1 194 bulb for markers, dash, etc. draws ~ 0.27 A.

Others are typical like Open Door is Dome and Foot light eating most of amps you see. (Foot lights only w/ car w/ that option.)

If put main battery cables in the clamp may not see a drain. Unless maybe Starter or alt has problems
Use small wires to battery and others.

Battery Test numbers seem normal. I just look up the "manual" because haven't use one in years to make sure.
More so if not tested w/ fresh full charge.
Note: test should only be done in 10 sec. More just false drain the battery and can overheat the tester.
Is "funny" that manual say use it so meter is horizontal but image shows vertical and many use it same.

Ref: Dead Cell battery should/will die quick under load test and volts will drop and stay there.
Quick load test and good battery volts will rise after test almost same as before testing. Tester is made to emulate normal starter load.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 10-05-2020).]

V8 Formula OCT 06, 03:04 PM
Ogre, yes I zeroed out the meter every time before I put it around a wire- it has a little Zero button.

Brand is MeterK, sold at Amazon: https://www.amazo n.com/Mete...2Ctools%2C141&sr=1-4

Manufacturer website: https://www.meterk.com/p-e2275.html

I don't see any download for the manual but I could scan the one that it came with if you're interested.

[This message has been edited by V8 Formula (edited 10-06-2020).]

theogre OCT 06, 07:47 PM
No manual but helps...
This meter is for bigger jobs but 40A range should read under 1A well enough so to find most leaches.

For an example pull 1 marking light and put meter on 1 wire. Should see ~ 0.27 if you still have normal 194 not LED. If you replace it w/ LED put a normal bulb back to test.

Example Bigger draws, clamp 1 wire to heater blower or rad fan motor or maybe even 1 LED HL. All should be easy test points.

Remember Likely can't or barely see few mA use by Radio, ECM when car is off. Gen2 HL module itself is "on standby" too but Gen2 system usually won't drain the battery like Gen1 w/ iffy parts. Module etc is on F-Link B w/ HL.
If you think you'll pull power plug on module... Module Pins are often weak and solder breaks. Leave it alone as much as possible.

replacing anything w/ LED... power draw can very hard to guess and many products have little or nothing to tell you. Worse If you use "CANBUS" LED they have resistors that eats power and gets very hot very quickly. But "bulbs" should be off w/ switch/car off and doors closed.

Clamp + battery cable... If starter or more like starter solenoid causing a leach likely shows up easy.
Leave clamp on and have helper to start the car... depending on exact starter used should see ~ 120a after inrush current may peg 400A range. May need to learn Data Hold feature to see inrush.
Even w/ good fresh charge battery, If main cables or starter have problems the current can be a lot higher and causes starting problems.
Patrick OCT 07, 01:42 AM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

I've never used a battery load tester... but I thought all your previously posted readings were kind of low.



I wanted to re-visit this. I've got a couple of spare batteries that must be at least 10 years old. I keep them charged up. I just checked one of them that was on the charger a week ago. My multimeter shows that it has a charge of 12.58 volts.

I continue to believe that your readings are a little low.


quote
Originally posted by V8 Formula:

Edited to add: Voltage is down to 12.48 after sitting for an hour and 15 minutes...

Edited to add: Voltage is down to 12.46 after sitting for five hours...

Edited to add: Voltage is down to 12.34 after sitting for 27 hours...

Edited to add: Voltage is at 12.33 after 50 hours...
V8 Formula OCT 08, 11:45 AM
You make a good argument... I'll check the battery in my Durango (which never has starting problems ) and see how it reacts.


quote
I've got a couple of spare batteries that must be at least 10 years old. I keep them charged up.



Now you're scaring me...