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| Stiffer front suspension question - tires rubbing with drop spindles (Page 3/4) |
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Will
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DEC 04, 05:02 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by ragoldsmith:
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Can you clean this tag up enough to read it before you get the spring out?
Also, OTC makes a tool that's MUCH better than Rodney's for separating ball joints:
https://www.otctools.com/pr...ball-joint-separator
 [This message has been edited by Will (edited 12-04-2020).]
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bjc 350
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DEC 04, 09:42 PM
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Well. Some might not like my solution I used on my "mini wide body". After installing Dickman 1" lowering ball joints, and cutting one coil, my 88 settled a little too much after driving a bit. The drivers front tire would rub on an occasional heavy jounce. One day while perusing the latest at O'Reilly's, I came across some Coil Spring Boosters. NasCar would call them spring rubbers and used them to adjust spring rates during the races. Well, this set can adjust height by either 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" depending on which way they are installed. I could not get them between the coils at the 1 1/2" method, so defaulted to the lesser setting. Jacked the car up, put two of the rubbers in each coil at 90 degrees from each other and went for a test ride. They only raised the car about 3/4 to 1" but it solved the rub issue. A bit stiffer in front, no difference steering wise. A dihard would likely get a new alignment, but I'll wait. Probably won't get 500 miles on it in the next year. $9.99 and less than an hours work. Good enough for race drivers at 180 plus, fine for me at 75 or less! Worth a cheap try, you can always do it the "correct" way.
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Patrick
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DEC 04, 10:28 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Will:
Also, OTC makes a tool that's MUCH better than Rodney's for separating ball joints:
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I'm curious... what makes the OTC tool "MUCH better" than the simple and effective tool that Rodney sells for less than 1/2 the price of the OTC unit. 
Never having used anything like the OTC tool, I had to find a YouTube video to see what was involved. Man oh man, I think I'll stick to using Rodney's device! 
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 12-04-2020).]
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theogre
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DEC 04, 11:14 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
I'm curious... what makes the OTC tool "MUCH better" than the simple and effective tool that Rodney sells for less than 1/2 the price of the OTC unit. |
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The OTC tool above and related are for Rod End joints to remove w/o damage. Tie rods and related.
HF and others have them or often is in "loaner tool" at AZ etc.
Edit--> Oops. Their big versions but might work for tie rods. They make similar smaller one works w/ more tie rods. Pitman arm remover can work w/ some tie rods too.
RD tool is for BJ's for Control Arms sim to GM/KM tool in Fiero FSM.
⚠️ Warning: Do Not remove CA's BJ nuts. Only loosen maybe 1 turn then use RD tool.
Either tool work easier when you load the tool and hit the joint hole part to shake the joint. Joint will pop easy that way. Don't beat the joint. Repeted light hammer to vibrate. If fail first time tighten tool a bit more.
Spring replace then don't need whole front end apart. Only LCA's BJ apart.[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 12-04-2020).]
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Will
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DEC 05, 02:21 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
I'm curious... what makes the OTC tool "MUCH better" than the simple and effective tool that Rodney sells for less than 1/2 the price of the OTC unit.
Never having used anything like the OTC tool, I had to find a YouTube video to see what was involved. Man oh man, I think I'll stick to using Rodney's device!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=se6Lo5MizLo
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Not sure why you'd say that what's shown on the video is super involved or anything... the OTC tool is, BAR NONE, including Rodney's tool, the easiest way to separate ball joints I've EVER used.
Rodney's tool turns one end of the tool UNDER LOAD against the tip of the opposing ball joint. This galls (damages) both the end of the ball joint shank AND the cup in the tool. Also, Rodney's tool doesn't work on tie rod ends, while the OTC tool does.
Not sure why the dude in your video sprayed the entire setup down with everything under the sun... as you can see in the video, breaking the ball joint free is very easy. I also always anti-seize my ball joint tapers when I assemble them, so even moreso for me.[This message has been edited by Will (edited 12-05-2020).]
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Patrick
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DEC 05, 04:17 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Will:
Rodney's tool turns one end of the tool UNDER LOAD against the tip of the opposing ball joint. This galls (damages) both the end of the ball joint shank AND the cup in the tool.
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Not that I've popped dozens of ball joints... but any galling of the threads at the end of the ball joint shank is rectified when the nut is removed. As far as damage to the tool goes, IMO it's pretty minimal. I suspect mine will never need to be replaced.
| quote | Originally posted by Will:
Also, Rodney's tool doesn't work on tie rod ends, while the OTC tool does.
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Well, we're talking about popping ball joints here.
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ragoldsmith
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DEC 05, 04:41 PM
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No, I looked at the tag closely and after 34 years, I think it’s too far gone.
Edit: I ordered one of the otc tools. I’d like to try both (otc and rodney’s) and compare results. For me, it’s worth the cost of both as I will be doing a lot of suspension work this winter and I’d like the best tool for the job.[This message has been edited by ragoldsmith (edited 12-05-2020).]
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ragoldsmith
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DEC 05, 04:44 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by bjc 350:
Well. Some might not like my solution I used on my "mini wide body". After installing Dickman 1" lowering ball joints, and cutting one coil, my 88 settled a little too much after driving a bit. The drivers front tire would rub on an occasional heavy jounce. One day while perusing the latest at O'Reilly's, I came across some Coil Spring Boosters. NasCar would call them spring rubbers and used them to adjust spring rates during the races. Well, this set can adjust height by either 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" depending on which way they are installed. I could not get them between the coils at the 1 1/2" method, so defaulted to the lesser setting. Jacked the car up, put two of the rubbers in each coil at 90 degrees from each other and went for a test ride. They only raised the car about 3/4 to 1" but it solved the rub issue. A bit stiffer in front, no difference steering wise. A dihard would likely get a new alignment, but I'll wait. Probably won't get 500 miles on it in the next year. $9.99 and less than an hours work. Good enough for race drivers at 180 plus, fine for me at 75 or less! Worth a cheap try, you can always do it the "correct" way. |
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I actually already ordered some of these from Amazon (I didn’t even think about checking locally). I figure it’ll stop the rubbing issue until I can find a more permanent fix.
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ragoldsmith
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DEC 05, 04:46 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by theogre:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Patrick:
I'm curious... what makes the OTC tool "MUCH better" than the simple and effective tool that Rodney sells for less than 1/2 the price of the OTC unit. |
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The OTC tool above and related are for Rod End joints to remove w/o damage. Tie rods and related.
HF and others have them or often is in "loaner tool" at AZ etc.
Edit--> Oops. Their big versions but might work for tie rods. They make similar smaller one works w/ more tie rods. Pitman arm remover can work w/ some tie rods too.
RD tool is for BJ's for Control Arms sim to GM/KM tool in Fiero FSM.
⚠️ Warning: Do Not remove CA's BJ nuts. Only loosen maybe 1 turn then use RD tool.
Either tool work easier when you load the tool and hit the joint hole part to shake the joint. Joint will pop easy that way. Don't beat the joint. Repeted light hammer to vibrate. If fail first time tighten tool a bit more.
Spring replace then don't need whole front end apart. Only LCA's BJ apart.
[/QUOTE]
Thanks, I really appreciate the advice!
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mitchjl22
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DEC 08, 01:40 AM
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