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| Frustrated crank no start (Page 3/4) |
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Patrick
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NOV 24, 08:53 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by JWTMedic:
My local mechanic says he doesn't want to take the time in the shop to try amd trouble shoot it.
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He sounds like a useless tool. Isn't that what a real mechanic is supposed to do?
A lot of time and effort is being spent on the ignition. I would've had a fuel pressure gauge on there long ago, not only to see what the fuel pressure reaches, but also to see if it dissipates too quickly (indicating leakage somewhere) when power to the fuel pump is cut.[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-24-2022).]
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JWTMedic
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NOV 24, 09:14 PM
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Great point, it has good pressure but not sure about it maintaining pressure, I will have rent a pressure gauge from O'Reilly.
Ya, the mechanic is just way to busy for a project, they have cars parked all around their parking waiting to get in to be fixed, Mine would just be parked next to the others.
| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
He sounds like a useless tool. Isn't that what a real mechanic is supposed to do?
A lot of time and effort is being spent on the ignition. I would've had a fuel pressure gauge on there long ago, not only to see what the fuel pressure reaches, but also to see if it dissipates too quickly (indicating leakage somewhere) when power to the fuel pump is cut.
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Patrick
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NOV 24, 09:42 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by JWTMedic:
I will have rent a pressure gauge from O'Reilly.
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From what I've read here over the years, it seems that it's quite common in the States for auto supply stores down there to loan out fuel pressure testers free of charge. Maybe try phoning around a few places.
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greenturnedblue
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NOV 24, 10:11 PM
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Well, he did say starter fluid made no difference, and that the spark plugs were fouled and coated in fuel...
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JWTMedic
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NOV 24, 11:07 PM
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Yes, I have sprayed starter fluid. I have also disconnected the fuel pump and cranked it with the gas pedal to the floor to dry out the plugs then with the fuel pump fuse out i then sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body with no change just cranked. I am sorry guys I am not a amateur, I have worked on cars for the last 30+ years and have always figured out the issue fairly quickly. It has just been with the pontiac 6cyl. Two different fieros both suddenly just did a crank no start. I am hoping it is the fuel pressure not keeping pressure. It has good pressure when you turn the key to on. I will rent a fuel pressure checker this weekend and will let you know, thanks all!! And Happy Thanksgiving
However, I should have had some sputtering or starting when fuse was out and spraying starter fluid?
| quote | Originally posted by greenturnedblue:
Well, he did say starter fluid made no difference, and that the spark plugs were fouled and coated in fuel... |
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[This message has been edited by JWTMedic (edited 11-24-2022).]
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Patrick
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NOV 24, 11:08 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by greenturnedblue:
....and that the spark plugs were fouled and coated in fuel...
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Well yeah, I'm wondering if one or more injectors (or maybe a ruptured fuel pressure regulator diaphragm) are pouring fuel into the cylinders.
No fuel is a problem, as well as too much!  [This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-24-2022).]
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Patrick
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NOV 24, 11:20 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by JWTMedic:
I am sorry guys I am not a amateur, I have worked on cars for the last 30+ years...
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Don't take any advice or suggestions or questions too personally. People looking for help here have rather varied histories in regards to practical experience working on cars/engines. It's just simpler to respond with the assumption (perhaps incorrectly at times) that the person looking for help knows next to nothing.... because quite often, that is exactly the situation. 
I've been working on cars for more than 50 years, and there's a lot of stuff I don't know much about.[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-24-2022).]
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greenturnedblue
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NOV 25, 12:52 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by JWTMedic:
However, I should have had some sputtering or starting when fuse was out and spraying starter fluid?
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That would be ideal! Sorry if my attitude suggests a lack of knowledge/skill, we are all on the same team here and a lot of the time the solution is something very basic. I just helped someone in one of the fiero Facebook groups with a similar problem and all he had to do was hold the gas pedal down for a few seconds to clear the cylinder and she started right up. A lot of the time something goes wrong, people don't know what to do, and post asking "what do?"
Anyways, we know spark is fine up til the plugs and fuel is fine up til the injectors. Whatever is going on inside the cylinder remains to be seem. I would still pull the plugs and take a look. When I was diagnosing my car and found drops of coolant on them I knew I had a serious problem. Maybe they are fouled to the point they are not sparking at all. And perhaps that is caused by a faulty injector dumping fuel in as Patrick suggests
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ArthurPeale
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NOV 25, 11:47 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by JWTMedic:
It points directly at the number one cylinder on thr distributor
[QUOTE]Originally posted by XxdjxX89:
What you want to do is put motor at tdc cyl 1 and see where the rotar on dist is pointing to ,,, if not pointing at number 1 plug wire then move dist to point at number 1 |
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[/QUOTE]
I think this might be the issue - when you say "It points directly at the number one cylinder on thr distributor " - what exactly do you mean by that?
The distributor doesn't have a set position for any plug, you have to manually note in which position the rotor is facing when the piston is at TDC for cylinder one.
Then, connect the wire for that plug to that specific position on the cap. Follow up by wiring the rest in sequence.
if you've done that, indeed, it might be your ignition coil
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Patrick
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NOV 25, 04:14 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by ArthurPeale:
The distributor doesn't have a set position for any plug, you have to manually note in which position the rotor is facing when the piston is at TDC for cylinder one. Then, connect the wire for that plug to that specific position on the cap.
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I understand what you're saying, but to be clear, you do have a choice of where you want #1 to be located on the distributor. You're not at the whim of where the rotor just happens to be pointing while at TDC of #1 cylinder (on the compression stroke).
In the link I supplied earlier to the OP, the following image appears. It's been determined by many people that this is the optimal position for #1 to be located on the 2.8's distributor in regards to the wiring harness and plug wires etc. If your rotor is pointing elsewhere for #1, you're not forced to forever leave it there. It's just a matter of pulling the distributor up out of the hole far enough to disengage the gears... and then reposition the rotor so that when it's dropped back down, it's pointing where you want (which in my image below, is the bolt that the arrow is indicating).
 [This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-25-2022).]
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