oil pan gasket replacement on 1987 Pont Fiero Gt with v6 (Page 3/3)
Patrick JAN 30, 07:32 PM

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Originally posted by theogre:

This isn't new.



I agree, newbs disappearing after asking a question is nothing new... but I felt this situation was a little different. OP twice complained about a lack of responses, the first time only 23 hours after his initial post... and then vanishes into the ether with a dozen responses to his inquiry sitting unacknowledged. Seems weird to me.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 01-30-2023).]

greenturnedblue JAN 30, 11:29 PM
This forum has always been quite slow... Not like there is much breaking news on a 35 year old car, that they only made for five years, and sold not even half a million of them. Personally, I only check in once or twice a week
ArthurPeale JAN 31, 12:43 PM

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Originally posted by Patrick:

Excellent point (although I believe you're referring to the O-ring). The distributor sticks into a pressurized oil passage in the block. When the distributor O-ring gets old and hard, it can fail to properly seal oil from escaping past the body of the distributor. The escaped oil then runs down the back of the block. This has fooled many people over the years into thinking there's an oil leak somewhere lower down.



My opinion on this specific part - even if it's not leaking now, and it's original - replace it. It's less than a buck, and you can have it swapped out in about 15 minutes if you have all your ducks in a row.

I did it this past Summer, after hemming and hawing for a long time about it. Now I wish I'd done it sooner.
Signupacct JAN 31, 06:30 PM
Wow guys

its feast or famine and just now returning to check for any responses after many days of waiting and hitting the refresh button!



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If you have an engine crane, then the engine can be lifted from the top with the two lifting lugs provided on the engine. There is a special GM J-tool for doing this but it is nothing more than a bar with a lifting lug in the middle and hook on each end to go into the lifting lugs on the engine. In lieu of the special tool, it may work to run a strap to the lifting lugs. I use seat belts salvaged from the junk yard for this type of lifting. They are plenty strong.


We purchased a engine hoist from HF (was on sale for $30 off ) over the weekend as it will be needed for another project and would prefer using it if it is possible.

Yes I noted two eye hooks on the top of the engine and assumed that they were leftover from installing the engine at the factory ?

If those are suitable we will use those



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Some thoughts, curious what year Skylark that was? Anyway, do you have any documentation of the rebuild? Like a P/N of the oil pan gasket or gasket set? The 85-86's were different from the 87-88's. Just guessing he may have used the earlier gasket on the 87 which might explain it. [u]I like Patrick's idea about dropping the cradle if the engine was just rebuilt, it should come down no problem. And if the gasket isn't the problem, you're steps ahead dropping the cradle for the rear main seal. Might be worth checking the distributor to see if that gasket is in place[/u].



yes I like the idea also thanks

[This message has been edited by Signupacct (edited 01-31-2023).]

Signupacct JAN 31, 06:46 PM



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Just having weird pressure on a balancer can wreck them. Worse if load moves for any reason.
Rubber part may seem strong but isn't and isn't "glued" to the metal and outer metal easily popped off w/ very little effort.
Crank and many other Pulleys aren't very strong either and can damage it w/o being obvious until engine starts. If a pulley is a tiny off center then belt(s) and other things will have problems.



its good to have someone confirm my suspicions as I had mentioned I cracked one years ago (details on another response post)



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Pan and other Gasket Leaks is often cause by installing wrong.
Example: Any RTV w/ many Gaskets will cause failure. Contamination of surfaces make RTV to Fail too even if some gaskets need a little at some locations.



yes I most recently worked with RTV and hear good and bad (mostly bad about it)and suspect it is how it is used that determines

The gasket I have is a one piece and thick rubbery and came with 4 plastic pins. My plan was to call felpro and confirm where if any sealer is needed and where and how to apply it. Planned also to use the four pins and ordered four additional pins since the gasket appears to be designed with nib shapes at the rear main side and those nibs appear to need to be fitted around the crank in an exact manner.
Signupacct JAN 31, 06:57 PM

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Some thoughts, curious what year Skylark that was? Anyway, do you have any documentation of the rebuild? Like a P/N of the oil pan gasket or gasket set? The 85-86's were different from the 87-88's. Just guessing he may have used the earlier gasket on the 87 which might explain it. I like Patrick's idea about dropping the cradle if the engine was just rebuilt, it should come down no problem. And if the gasket isn't the problem, you're steps ahead dropping the cradle for the rear main seal. Might be worth checking the distributor to see if that gasket is in place.



if you would like to pull up a chair for storytime here goes:


Had a 1980 Buick Skyhawk with the Roadhawk appearance package with 231 v6 and four speed and had a problem with the clutch I think so somehow changing it required raising the engine and putting a piece of wood underneath harmonic balancer. Completed procedure etc and was in college at the time going between home and campus (long distance) and in the middle of the night harmonic balancer made noise and I remember having to contend with it in a convenience store parking lot with whatever tools I had on hand. Not fun. Once home I realized not only harmonic balancer cracked but key cracked and had issues getting a new one and a key to successfully repair etc. after college replaced engine. So yeah not real crazy about a piece of wood etc. But thanks all for the suggestions etc

[This message has been edited by Signupacct (edited 01-31-2023).]

Signupacct JAN 31, 07:12 PM

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If you are sure that your oil leak is coming from the oil pan, drain the oil, remove the front motor mount and the bracket, jack the engine up, support with a small piece of 2 x4 under the starter to cradle. Then you will be able to remove all the oil pan bolts and drop the pan. When replacing the gasket make sure that you put a dab of silicone sealant in the corners of where the oil pan meets the block around the bearing journals. tighten all bolts to spec and do not overtighten.



duly noted thank you



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Yeah, o-ring..haven't had the distributor out of 60 deg V6 in quite a while where my Pontiac V8 has a gasket. The later 60 deg V6's suffer from this even without the distributor, there is plug in its place but the same problem occurs. Wonder how many have been ripped off replacing the oil pan gasket when it was just the o-ring.



This suggestion is huge and really appreciate it being offered. Thanks Mark!

have previous owner who seemed pretty skilled pulled the engine and machined it and changed out clutch pressure plate and throwout bearing etc and put it all back in and could only say that he said he thought had some difficulty getting the pan and gasket placed and thought the leak was the result of that. It could be he got the wrong gasket. He said it was the original pan so probably is not that. I checked underneath to be sure it was not the vavle cover gaskets or just the oil filter not tight. Nothing found there but will check the distributor etc.

the oils drips off and around where the pan contours the rear main etc. again will check from distributor on down.


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Excellent point (although I believe you're referring to the O-ring). The distributor sticks into a pressurized oil passage in the block. When the distributor O-ring gets old and hard, it can fail to properly seal oil from escaping past the body of the distributor. The escaped oil then runs down the back of the block. This has fooled many people over the years into thinking there's an oil leak somewhere lower down.



yes makes sense

[This message has been edited by Signupacct (edited 02-01-2023).]

Patrick JAN 31, 07:19 PM

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Originally posted by Signupacct:

Wow guys

its feast or famine and just now returning to check for any responses after many days of waiting and hitting the refresh button!



You posted three times within five days, obviously impatient for a response... and then you disappear for eleven days while the responses are piling up.

As I stated in my previous post, this just seems a little weird to me.