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armos
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FEB 25, 05:42 AM
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If Fieros were common as Camrys, I think I'd open a business changing V6 spark plugs. A lot of people seem to loathe that job.
They are mildly difficult to get to, but not that big a deal once you find the right combination of extensions and a U-joint.
Sometimes you also need to vacuum rocks and leaves first.
I've always used copper. Originally that's because I had to take a CA emissions test every 2 years. It made sense to schedule the plugs as part of my pre-test ritual. Copper is good for a short interval.
I don't have to take tests anymore but I still use copper. I don't want to risk them seizing into the head, so I won't extend the replacement interval long enough for anything beyond copper to be useful.
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1985 Fiero GT
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FEB 25, 09:03 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by armos:
If Fieros were common as Camrys, I think I'd open a business changing V6 spark plugs. A lot of people seem to loathe that job.
They are mildly difficult to get to, but not that big a deal once you find the right combination of extensions and a U-joint.
Sometimes you also need to vacuum rocks and leaves first.
I've always used copper. Originally that's because I had to take a CA emissions test every 2 years. It made sense to schedule the plugs as part of my pre-test ritual. Copper is good for a short interval.
I don't have to take tests anymore but I still use copper. I don't want to risk them seizing into the head, so I won't extend the replacement interval long enough for anything beyond copper to be useful. |
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Agreed! Spark plus are much easier then some things
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olejoedad
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FEB 25, 10:36 AM
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AC Delco stock copper plugs.
Front bank is easy to change if you go from the end of the block, not over the top.
3/8" ratchet and a plug socket is all that's needed.
It is absolutely imperative to make sure the spark plug well on the head is free of debris before putting a socket on the plugs.
Since you're working by feel, it helps to close your eyes.....🙂
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theogre
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FEB 25, 01:00 PM
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⚠️ Also a problem is most install the plugs way too tight making remove them next time very hard.
Cone plugs are very tight often < 1/8 Turn of a wrench after tighten by fingers until cone hits.
Other engines w/ Gasket plugs need ~ 1/4 Turn the First Time to crush the gasket but if reused latter the gasket plugs "act like" cone plugs & doesn't need same 1/4 turn.
Is why many lawn mowers to car engines w/ Al Heads & plug holes stripped because previous work over torque the plugs. In Iron heads have same + rust damage but often = plug's base metal breaks or strips.
Side Note: Is why many Plug Wrenches w/ universal joints etc are "weak" even from known good tool brands... They don't expect a lot of torque.[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 02-25-2024).]
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Patrick
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FEB 25, 05:26 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by armos:
I don't have to take tests anymore but I still use copper. I don't want to risk them seizing into the head, so I won't extend the replacement interval long enough for anything beyond copper to be useful.
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I like to live life on the edge. I last changed the copper core plugs in my Formula, which is parked outside in the rain... nine years ago!  [This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 02-25-2024).]
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sledcaddie
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MAR 15, 06:36 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
Is there any reason not to?
I always apply anti-seize to sparkplug threads, and dielectric grease to the inside of the sparkplug cable boots (at both ends). |
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Yes, Patrick. I took your advice years ago. I have always used dielectric grease on electrical connections like spark plug wires. I just installed the iridium plugs using anti-seize and dielectric grease.
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Patrick
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MAR 15, 06:59 PM
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