Hi idle, loud hissing noise under air cleaner (Page 3/3)
1985 Fiero GT MAR 14, 12:26 PM
It can also help if you can't drive the car to let the ECM learn the idle speed, if it is way off, and you need to run the engine, you just close the IAC valve with the procedure, and run the engine, the ECM won't try to control the idle until it is driven, so it will stay wherever it was, if the IAC valve gets closed, the idle will be nice and low.
gregr75 MAR 14, 01:47 PM
aaaah ok that makes sense. When I had extended the IAC all the way via ALDL the car was almost stalling and i had to goose the throtte to keep it alive so I probably don't have a vacuum leak.

Will install the new valve and see how it goes. Thanks!
1985 Fiero GT MAR 14, 01:49 PM

quote
Originally posted by gregr75:

aaaah ok that makes sense. When I had extended the IAC all the way via ALDL the car was almost stalling and i had to goose the throtte to keep it alive so I probably don't have a vacuum leak.

Will install the new valve and see how it goes. Thanks!



Yeah, sounds like it is as it is supposed to be, is supposed to be like 600rpm with the IAC disabled, with the engine fully warmed up, without it warmed up, it will want to stall at those rpms.
Patrick MAR 14, 03:53 PM

quote
Originally posted by gregr75:

However In playing with the valve and experimenting with it, the spring and pintle went flying out and I ruined it trying to put it back together.



Yep.


quote
Originally posted by Patrick Here:

When I "tested" the IAC valve while it was removed from my duke years ago... the pintle shot off into the grass. It was difficult to find. However, I at least knew the IAC valve was functioning.

Keep in mind the IAC valve can be working fine, but if there's crud in the passageway blocking smooth movement of the pintle, then it'll never extend/close properly.
fierogt28 SEP 25, 08:26 PM
Just an update with pics about the 2.8 EGR solenoid.

What you can see is various photos of the EGR solenoid apart.

1. What can cause a leak is at the EGR solenoid itself. There is a plastic vacuum line that has a rubber extension.
This piece is known to age over time, and can crack. its actually flexible. I don't know if anyone would has had issues,
but the condition of it on the outside looks pretty bad. I'd put a thicker tube as a replacement.

As you can see, there are 2 small screws to pop of the square piece on the back side of the solenoid. (Where the vacuum
lines plug in)

The purpose of this posting is the point of the rubber hose that connects to the front of the solenoid.
I've been told and do believe that the reason to ditch the long hose in question is moisture can get into the
hose and that can set of the code 32. (or other related codes for that matter)

The other point was there is a filter in the front of the solenoid. You can't see it, and this is what I wanted to prove.
I took apart the big end off, and took a close-up pic of what you see inside. Its a cartridge (yellow) filter.
Plus, its self explanatory on the end that its marked "Filter" Made in Canada.










As you see the photos, it clearly shows all the EGR solenoid apart.

There is no worry to have that rubber hose from the steel pipe from the air filter canister.

Both my 88GTs have the rubber hose removed, and I have never had an issue with code 32 on both of my cars in over 14 years.
I did indeed have a code come up, but there was 2. Some codes may be triggered because of 1 main code. For me, that was code 44.
Lean exhaust. It did trigger code 32, but I have been driving fieros now for 24 years, and the code was set at uphill throttle conditions, and was not intermittent.
I replaced the 02 sensor, and all good now.
That 02 sensor was 14 years old, so you can't blame the car for that. Those are maintenance items.
And a 02 sensor is very common to have replaced for best performance.

Hope this helps...

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fierogt28

88 GT, Loaded, 5-speed.
88 GT, 5-speed. Beechwood interior, All original.