V6/60 head bolts... same for 3.4 as they are for 2.8? (Page 3/3)
fierogt28 JUN 01, 10:02 PM
1985 Fiero GT is correct about that. But it is confusing for everyone because the 88 fiero GM service manual
states 66 ft./lbs for the torque on the head bolts. The issue is the Haynes Manual says 65 to 90 ft./lbs.

It would of been beneficial for them to explain further in detail to torque a 1st pass at 65ft./lbs and the 90ft./lbs
on the 2nd pass. This is the issue, no detail or info. So we are guessing / assuming this is the correct procedure.
But, it is interesting that the 88 fiero GM service manual only specs it at 66 ft.lbs.

Who is correct?

You certainly don't want to blow a head gasket for a mistake, or strip a bolt in the 2.8L block because of confusion.
Big variation in torque.

It's not the first time GM has made mistakes in a shop manual.

About the rocker adjustment. There is confusion also, but remember...this is on stock parts.
The other issue that was mentioned in the past was aftermarket rocker studs with a different thread pitch.
Resulting in un-acurate turns on the valve lash.
But I can't compare the stock to aftermarket rocker studs, as I only seen stock studs.

Finally, the use of the original head bolts is ok, but my opinion is if your putting lots of money into your 2.8 or 3.4
rebuild, you think cheaping out on 40$ for bolts will make a difference? No...
You have new bolts, and peace of mind.
They are non TTY bolts, and are reusable.
TTY bolts are indicated when you torque the bolts to an added degree value. Your actually "stretching" the threads
to the tightening specs. That why it's a on time use.

You can do what you want, but in the end your the boss of your rebuild.
I just don't like taking chances when you can do the job right the first time.

I have also heard and people that did a 2.8, that 3/4 turn after the zero lash on the push-rod is the best adjustment.

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fierogt28

88 GT, Loaded, 5-speed.
88 GT, 5-speed. Beechwood interior, All original.

pmbrunelle JUN 01, 10:26 PM

quote
Originally posted by fierogt28:
TTY bolts are indicated when you torque the bolts to an added degree value. Your actually "stretching" the threads to the tightening specs.



The only way to sensibly torque a bolt to (or beyond) its yield point is using a torque+angle procedure.

However, a torque+angle tightening procedure can also be used to stretch a bolt while remaining in the elastic (i.e. reusable) domain.
La fiera JUN 02, 11:03 PM
I never understood why someone spends money and time getting their engine rebuild and cheap out on the lesser things like head bolts. Thinking that by re using the head bolts and saving $30 will not bite them back with quadruple force once one of those overworked/overstretched gives in. Then more time and money has to be spent and to top it off they would want to re use the already torqued head gasket! That's where the "shade tree mechanic" fraise came to be I guess! Good luck!
fierogt28 JUN 03, 12:02 AM
That is exactly right La Fiera.

Some people can’t and won’t understand the concept of 30$ won’t “break the bank”.

I guess some do.

It’s like rebuilding the complete engine, and using a worn out oil pump.

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fierogt28

88 GT, Loaded, 5-speed.
88 GT, 5-speed. Beechwood interior, All original.

1985 Fiero GT JUN 03, 07:45 AM

quote
Originally posted by La fiera:

I never understood why someone spends money and time getting their engine rebuild and cheap out on the lesser things like head bolts. Thinking that by re using the head bolts and saving $30 will not bite them back with quadruple force once one of those overworked/overstretched gives in. Then more time and money has to be spent and to top it off they would want to re use the already torqued head gasket! That's where the "shade tree mechanic" fraise came to be I guess! Good luck!



I personally would also buy new bolts and head gaskets, and indeed I have, the only reason I'm hesitant in using the new bolts is that there are several stories of the threads being stripped, and the topic mentioned earlier by you gives a reason for that, the new replacement bolts were a smaller diameter than the originals, meaning the threads weren't making full contact, and stripped out the block. I have threaded in a new felpro bolt by hand, and a cleaned original bolt and the felpro is loose to the point of wiggling even when fully threaded in, whereas the original can be easily threaded by hand (no stretching of the threads) but does not wiggle. If you end up buying new bolts and they work, that's good, but I for one will reuse the old for peace of mind, as that seems to be a legitimate problem with our engines, replacement bolts (at least the one I got, and the ones in that topic: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/143273.html )
are not what they are supposed to be.
82-T/A [At Work] JUN 03, 08:22 AM

quote
Originally posted by fierogt28:

That is exactly right La Fiera.

Some people can’t and won’t understand the concept of 30$ won’t “break the bank”.

I guess some do.

It’s like rebuilding the complete engine, and using a worn out oil pump.




Come on man... 1985 Fiero GT is literally like 18 years old. Were you this mature then? I was knocking over Port-O-Potties, streaking through Waffle Houses, and tricking my drunk friends into lap dances with morbidly obese girls when I was his age. Give the kid a break, he's just asking questions. Besides, he's literally from your hometown... where is your New Brunswick pride?
fierogt28 JUN 03, 08:48 PM
T/A…what’s the matter?

I agreed both with 1985 Fiero GT and La Fiera.

Plus some value pointers…

I guess today you get in trouble for helping and offering advise.

Before you got in trouble not doing anything.

Everything seems or is the opposite today, and that’s why nothing is working. (In every possible department)

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fierogt28

88 GT, Loaded, 5-speed.
88 GT, 5-speed. Beechwood interior, All original.

82-T/A [At Work] JUN 03, 08:51 PM

quote
Originally posted by fierogt28:

T/A…what’s the matter?

I agreed both with 1985 Fiero GT and La Fiera.

Plus some value pointers…

I guess today you get in trouble for helping and offering advise.

Before you got in trouble not doing anything.

Everything seems or is the opposite today, and that’s why nothing is working. (In every possible department)




It's all good... it just seemed like everyone was ganging up on the kid, haha.
fierogt28 JUN 03, 08:57 PM
Pmbrunelle, you’re correct.

Using a torque wrench at the specified torque spec, then after an angle gauge to precisely get the degree value spec from the shop manual.

Remember when you turn a hex bolt, it’s 60* from each bolt corner on the hex. (Little reference pointer)

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fierogt28

88 GT, Loaded, 5-speed.
88 GT, 5-speed. Beechwood interior, All original.

82-T/A [At Work] JUN 04, 07:08 AM

quote
Originally posted by fierogt28:

Pmbrunelle, you’re correct.

Using a torque wrench at the specified torque spec, then after an angle gauge to precisely get the degree value spec from the shop manual.

Remember when you turn a hex bolt, it’s 60* from each bolt corner on the hex. (Little reference pointer)





So like this? Or is there a better design / style...

https://www.amazon.com/Torq...easure/dp/B08NH5GYC5