Stumped (Page 3/6)
theogre JUL 11, 12:56 PM

quote
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:
For Gizmo0816, I highly recommend doing this. These TBI units have a bunch of gaskets, small and large, and they do tend to get "crusty" over the years. It's a good idea to order the rebuild kit (it's like $45 bucks) and completely disassemble it, spray it down with brake & parts cleaner, and then reassemble with all new gaskets. If you are going to keep this engine (it's a very decent engine, being an 88... e.g., balance shaft, DIS, roller cam, etc.), then I recommend replacing and / or having the injector professionally cleaned (I think they're also like $40 bucks on Rock Auto).

The only thing is... just make sure you've replaced the fuel filter first. You don't want to further gum up a cleaned / new injector.

700 TBI has very little to rebuild & multec injector rarely goes bad or gets dirty needing "pro cleaning." If "dirty" & can't spray right then use "Top Tier" gas for a full up or three. Most big brands & many small brands are "Top Tier" so not hard to find... https://stationfinder.toptiergas.com/ This is Better & Safer then most Gas Additives. See also https://web.archive.org/web...rocave/fuelknock.htm

Again has all the soft parts including the reg diaphragm that often cost close to same $.

Unless the fuel carries big crap that F-pump hates to start w/... 700 often Won't Care about "dirt" because of design most "dirt" just passes thru it. The Injector has 2 screen to block the "dirt" trying going to that.

Often you Don't remove or rebuild some items unless have leaks or big dirt problems. Like the large "nuts" where fuel lines are anchored is pointless to remove from the TBI. The Vac ports on the sides often can ignore too. Just put fuel injection cleaner thru those.

Do Not use Carb Cleaner & some others as those can remove/attack anti-rust coatings on many TB/TBI metal parts.
Gizmo0816 JUL 11, 10:51 PM

quote
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:


Well, I would keep the old injector as a spare, but if you just bought a new injector... then you're fine. I don't expect that rebuilding the TBI unit will solve all your problems, but it will give you an opportunity to clean the entire thing (all the EGR gasses as well) and ensure that when it's rebuilt, it's running in top shape.

I didn't see above, but definitely get a service manual for your year. You can download them for free from a few places (not legal of course), but I prefer to have the book in my hand and be able to flip through it. You can get that from http://www.themotorbookstore.com. People laugh, but I also like to have the Haynes repair manual. Always rely on the specs in the service manual above the Haynes, but often times the Haynes will provide a different perspective / picture / diagram that's perhaps not done as well in the service manual.

Shameless plug, my daughter is also restoring her 85 Fiero 2m4 SE. Slightly older version of your engine (doesn't have DIS ignition), but a lot of the things still apply, and it might be of some help to you (particularly in some of the upgrades for the Iron Duke, etc.): https://www.youtube.com/@GenerationZGarage


Anyway, it's a really cool car. If you can get it running well, you'll have a ton of fun. It's not a racecar by any means, with the Iron Duke that is... but it's a really fun car that you can push hard when you've got that engine running well. I had (still have) a V6 version of that car (87 SE V6) and man... that was a blast when I was growing up. I drove that thing like crazy, and it was quick for its time too.




My grandpa found a service manual online and I actually got lucky and the car had a Haynes manual in it. They both proven to be helpful with the brakes and some other stuff. Minus the e brake, we are having a hell of a time on that. We'll get it tho.

I do have a rebuild kit coming, thanks for the advice on that I wouldn't have know they had em.

I'll admit I am driving it around tho, not much, bu I know I probably shouldn't til I get the idle sorted out. It does run and it runs well, just idling it doesn't. Also the manual idling thing is weird

Yeah tho I mean I'm already having fun with how many older dudes say, "I haven't see one of those since I was a kid!" Or "I thought those all caught on fire". Add a 84 goldwing in there and oh boy every time I stop for gas or where ever I always get some sort of comment.

I actually have seen that channel before, when I was trying to learn about the car. Hope she has an easy time fixing it up and gets it to where she wants it to be!
Gizmo0816 JUL 11, 11:04 PM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

[QUOTE]Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:
For Gizmo0816, I highly recommend doing this. These TBI units have a bunch of gaskets, small and large, and they do tend to get "crusty" over the years. It's a good idea to order the rebuild kit (it's like $45 bucks) and completely disassemble it, spray it down with brake & parts cleaner, and then reassemble with all new gaskets. If you are going to keep this engine (it's a very decent engine, being an 88... e.g., balance shaft, DIS, roller cam, etc.), then I recommend replacing and / or having the injector professionally cleaned (I think they're also like $40 bucks on Rock Auto).

The only thing is... just make sure you've replaced the fuel filter first. You don't want to further gum up a cleaned / new injector.

700 TBI has very little to rebuild & multec injector rarely goes bad or gets dirty needing "pro cleaning." If "dirty" & can't spray right then use "Top Tier" gas for a full up or three. Most big brands & many small brands are "Top Tier" so not hard to find... https://stationfinder.toptiergas.com/ This is Better & Safer then most Gas Additives. See also https://web.archive.org/web...rocave/fuelknock.htm

Again has all the soft parts including the reg diaphragm that often cost close to same $.

Unless the fuel carries big crap that F-pump hates to start w/... 700 often Won't Care about "dirt" because of design most "dirt" just passes thru it. The Injector has 2 screen to block the "dirt" trying going to that.

Often you Don't remove or rebuild some items unless have leaks or big dirt problems. Like the large "nuts" where fuel lines are anchored is pointless to remove from the TBI. The Vac ports on the sides often can ignore too. Just put fuel injection cleaner thru those.

Do Not use Carb Cleaner & some others as those can remove/attack anti-rust coatings on many TB/TBI metal parts.[/QUOTE]

I am certain it has some sorta leak somewhere and I don't mind replacing parts as it's a learning experience and isn't gonna hurt anything except my wallet, but I mean you pay to go to college so what's the difference in the end?

Good to know the tbi is a champ tho from the sounds of it.
cartercarbaficionado JUL 12, 12:27 AM

quote
Originally posted by Gizmo0816:


I am certain it has some sorta leak somewhere and I don't mind replacing parts as it's a learning experience and isn't gonna hurt anything except my wallet, but I mean you pay to go to college so what's the difference in the end?

Good to know the tbi is a champ tho from the sounds of it.


I'm suprised you love this car that much. as for the ebrske pm your issues and I might have a few ideas having dealt with a few of problematic ones at this point
Gizmo0816 JUL 12, 12:03 PM

quote
Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:

I'm suprised you love this car that much. as for the ebrske pm your issues and I might have a few ideas having dealt with a few of problematic ones at this point



We got the passenger side one working properly, but the drivers side isn't engaging enough to pull the lever enough to actually put pressure on the rotor. We were messing with the equalizer, but it doesn't seem to be doing anything to the drivers side.
Tried reading the book and service manual, but both left me confused.
cartercarbaficionado JUL 12, 08:46 PM

quote
Originally posted by Gizmo0816:


We got the passenger side one working properly, but the drivers side isn't engaging enough to pull the lever enough to actually put pressure on the rotor. We were messing with the equalizer, but it doesn't seem to be doing anything to the drivers side.
Tried reading the book and service manual, but both left me confused.


oh yeah that lol. lube the cable and check that the caliper rubber around the lever is lubed properly. might also need a rebuild since they don't like sitting
Also yes the book can be confusing but try to visualize it more than anything
Patrick JUL 15, 06:12 PM

quote
Originally posted by jelly2m8:

As mentioned you need to test fuel pressure. Ogre posted the fuel pressure specs.

You mentioned someone replaced the fuel pump, alot of people replace the pulsator with the supplied piece of hose to connect the pump to the sending unit. For some reason aftermarket pumps have a piece of un-proper non-submersible hose and it will deteriorate and split causing fuel pressure issues.



So... what was the fuel pressure while the engine was running... and just as importantly, how quickly did the fuel pressure drop when the fuel pump stopped?

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-15-2024).]

Gizmo0816 JUL 15, 08:38 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

So... what was the fuel pressure while the engine was running... and just as importantly, how quickly did the fuel pressure drop when the fuel pump stopped?




I had to order the adapter, I haven't tested it yet. It should be here Friday, I'll have the answer then.

Oh and I didn't realize how the bump feature worked my bad. I thought this thread would've gotten buried by time.

[This message has been edited by Gizmo0816 (edited 07-15-2024).]

Gizmo0816 JUL 15, 09:03 PM

quote
Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:

oh yeah that lol. lube the cable and check that the caliper rubber around the lever is lubed properly. might also need a rebuild since they don't like sitting
Also yes the book can be confusing but try to visualize it more than anything



You know what I think we forgot to grease the cable last time we tried. Whoops. I plan on doing a rebuild on all the calipers, I just want to get it running smoothly first and foremost.
cartercarbaficionado JUL 16, 04:22 AM

quote
Originally posted by Gizmo0816:


You know what I think we forgot to grease the cable last time we tried. Whoops. I plan on doing a rebuild on all the calipers, I just want to get it running smoothly first and foremost.


use graphite dry lube. it's the correct stuff