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| 84 fieor-- 94 N* swap (Page 4/24) |
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mcfrandon
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DEC 09, 04:36 PM
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Will
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DEC 09, 08:17 PM
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Pic of the inside of the bellhousing? Sounds like you have a hydraulic throw out bearing trans
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mcfrandon
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DEC 09, 09:34 PM
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I have the clutch fork out at the moment but you can see where it goes and where the case is broken. It has a clutch fork with a cast arm on it and a mount for an external slave cylinder so im pretty sure its not the hydraulic bearing kind.. if it is I might of missed the buss
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mcfrandon
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DEC 10, 01:19 AM
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okay I took a closer look at that input shaft and it looks like there used to be a sleeve there but it must of been destroyed. It really looks like something bad happened to this tranny like a clutch came apart or something. I think I might start looking for another getrag because getting this tranny into the subframe and shifting would cost $750 at least, and that's without touching anything inside of it.
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Will
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DEC 10, 09:35 AM
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The sleeve the TOB rides on is an integral part of the input bearing... if it's gone, your input bearing needs to be replaced.
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mcfrandon
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DEC 13, 12:57 AM
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new input bearing on its way from Rodney. Split the case and found that the diff bearings have quite a bit of pitting on them, so I will need to replace those. I really would like to get an LSD for this thing while its apart
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Will
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DEC 14, 03:54 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by mcfrandon:
ok I will order the fiero slave. Also im trying to put this flywheel on but I need proper bolts. Does this sound right:
Regarding the flywheel bolts, here are the GM fastener tightening specifications
Application - Flywheel
Diameter - M8
Size (mm) Pitch - 1.25
Length - 17
Drive - 15
Property class - 10.9
Adhesive/sealant - 12346004
N*M - 15+ 50 degrees
lb/ft - 11+ 50 degrees
I suppose i will need longer bolts probably a 20 or 25mm for this application.. Spec has yet to get back to me on the fasteners to use, so I will go by this. Also the factory bolts i took off seem to be black/hardened bolts, should I match that with the new longer bolts, or would that matter. |
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I use 12.9 hex head (NOT socket cap) x 25 bolts on mine and use the stock torque to yield procedure... BE CAREFUL about the length. DO NOT bottom out the bolts, as the holes in the crank flange are thru and the bolts bottom against the rear main bulkhead. The TTY process permanently stretches the bolt and the bolts CAN NOT be reused afterward.
The flywheel is thicker than the flex plate, so the strain from the TTY process is slightly less than it is at the stock length. The stronger material makes up for that.
The only thing a limited slip really does in a Fiero is *maybe* help you avoid one wheel wonder burnouts.[This message has been edited by Will (edited 12-14-2014).]
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mcfrandon
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DEC 16, 01:00 AM
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okay cool.
I can't really tell if you mean one wheel burnouts are common or not? My fwd spins both tires, and it does not have any sort of LSD. If we do spin tires, is it the LR?? lollolol
btw got rodneys input bearing/sleeve in today. it was actually fun to do. It was well worth the $150 imo. As far as quality and ease of installation! I'll keep chuggin along tho. Need to get the differential bearings done, if i can figure out how to set the preload on the bearings... i've read a few threads on it, and i just end of getting lost. I'll get it figured out. I do appreciate your ongoing participation in this thread Will.
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Will
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DEC 16, 03:02 PM
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The Fiero does NOT have a tendency to do peg leg burnouts.
However, I have opened up a 282 transmission in which the diff was worn beyond repair by someone doing peg-leg burnouts with it. The interface between the side gears and the diff carrier and between the spider gears and the carrier & cross pin is not well enough lubricated to take sustained high surface speeds such as in a one wheel burnout. A friction device can act to prevent that. I say friction device because there isn't a proper LSD available for the 282 at all.
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mcfrandon
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DEC 22, 12:53 AM
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alright had the engine back in and all hooked up to try and test start it with no luck. not sure what i'm missing but it has to be something simple. I have the VATS bypass hooked up. I am getting spark. I have pressure at the fuel rail, but im not sure if the bypass is working or not. Will have to go through the wiring again it looks like
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