Access Fiero Front Spark Plugs (Page 4/4) ZaraSpOOk OCT 17, 08:07 PM quote Originally posted by buddycraigg: I always take the decklid off when I am changing spark plugs. That little bit of room make a huge difference. this is easier than the other suggestions, removing the decklid and putting it back on will give good access I have done it myself with no help, sounds like at least two others have done it and agree but it's your car, time and effort, and you are free to struggle with it however you want jim94 NOV 12, 10:53 PM I stand in the trunk and hug the engine. I have more of a problem dropping tools than changing the plugs.i did mine yesterday and my knees are killing me. They were in there for 4 yrs. At 65 I'm getting tired of working on car's. Make it stop please. oh car show tomorrow. Cool eti engineer NOV 13, 09:45 AM quote Originally posted by jim94: I stand in the trunk and hug the engine. I have more of a problem dropping tools than changing the plugs.i did mine yesterday and my knees are killing me. They were in there for 4 yrs. At 65 I'm getting tired of working on car's. Make it stop please. oh car show tomorrow. Cool I'm 71, 72 in Feb., and I know your pain. It's a labor of love and hate, but it's like a drug I can't do without!!! I just put my deck lid back on by myself, but didn't have any issues. I'm 6'-3", though, so maybe that helped. I have to pull it again, anyway. I have a cracked exhaust manifold and of course it's the front one. David88 NOV 13, 01:24 PM I did the original post but have now sold the Fiero and the guy who bought it told me how he got the corroded front spark plugs out. This is in the UK and the guy has had many Fieros with over 30 years experience, he said it was not easy but just about possible. The car had stood for many years and he said the spark plug hexagon had corroded away almost completely, he didn't think penetrating oil would work as it most likely wouldn't get past the plug taper seat to the thread. He removed the rear cradle bolts and loosened the front cradle bolts, then by jacking the car up somewhere near the doors the engine rotated backwards and opened up a gap between the front of the engine and the bulkhead leaving enough space to fairly easily access the plugs. He then broke the plug porcelain and with a small punch chipped carefully away at the remaining porcelain, vacuuming up the broken bits until eventually what was left of the porcelain and centre electrode could be pulled out. After all this he made an extractor by grinding an old lathe tool or piece of square tool steel with a reverse helix and not too much of a taper in case it expanded the remains and made it even tighter when he tapped it into what remained of the plug. The sharp corners cut into the metal and he turned the end of the tool he had made with a socket and out came the remains of the plugs without any heat or penetrating oil. It took many hours as you can imagine but saved having to take the head off which would have been the alternative. The moral of this story is to use anti seize on the plug thread and maybe a shield to deflect water away from the plugs in future. At least my old Fiero lives to run another day. BillS NOV 13, 01:47 PM quote Originally posted by Patrick: Applying copper anti-seize on the spark plug threads does the trick for me. And then dielectric grease in the spark plug boots. Yup - this! Always worked for me. Even with non-seized plugs, getting the front ones out can be a pain, lying across the trunk compartment and operating by feel, but certainly do-able. David88 NOV 13, 02:10 PM