Exploded Valve Lifter: What kind of top end engine damage can I expect and check for? (Page 4/4)
Raydar FEB 18, 10:41 AM
I didn't see it mentioned, so I'll go ahead and jump in. Since you are installing new lifters, you should probably use assembly lube, such as moly lube, or some other assembly lube, on the faces of the lifters, and the cam lobes..
Run the engine at a higher RPM (2500-3K or so) as if you were breaking in a new cam. Don't let it idle for a few minutes. Keep that oil flowing.

Others may offer advice in this regard. I've only ever had to break in a couple of cams, but I've never had any problems, after the fact.
I did, however, turn my headers a nice red color.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 02-18-2022).]

reinhart FEB 19, 05:53 AM

quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

I didn't see it mentioned, so I'll go ahead and jump in. Since you are installing new lifters, you should probably use assembly lube, such as moly lube, or some other assembly lube, on the faces of the lifters, and the cam lobes..
Run the engine at a higher RPM (2500-3K or so) as if you were breaking in a new cam. Don't let it idle for a few minutes. Keep that oil flowing.

Others may offer advice in this regard. I've only ever had to break in a couple of cams, but I've never had any problems, after the fact.
I did, however, turn my headers a nice red color.




Yes I used the lube on the engine bearings and the cam lobes. Also I did read an article about running it at 2500 for 30 minutes. Not sure I'll do it that long but five minutes or so is good.

Got the valve covers on today. Was a lot more difficult that I expected to keep the gaskets lined up especially the front bank while maneuvering around some coolant hoses and brackets. Had to use a mirror to verify the gasket was in line with the bolt holes and use a small screwdriver to move it around until it was. For those that got the valve covers back on without removing the middle/upper intake and don't have any leaks, I applaud you.

Need to do the middle and upper intake and still need to seal up the bottom of the engine. I left the oil pan loose since I didn't know what was going on up top and didn't want to have to tear the bottom out again if there was something like piston issues.

Hopefully will get this finished up this weekend. I'm currently at 51.5 hours spent on this project.

[This message has been edited by reinhart (edited 02-19-2022).]

reinhart FEB 19, 06:05 AM
One thing that boggles my mind: With the Fel Pro gasket set it includes like 4 different thermostat housing to intake manifold gaskets, yet not one of them fits the Fiero as far as I can tell.
theogre FEB 19, 10:02 PM

quote
Originally posted by reinhart:
One thing that boggles my mind: With the Fel Pro gasket set it includes like 4 different thermostat housing to intake manifold gaskets, yet not one of them fits the Fiero as far as I can tell.

Because most kits assume FWD engine that most doesn't use Fiero T-stat house.

Many FWD and Inline "Dukes" also don't use Fiero T-stat house too. Worse, Duke in Fiero uses 2 of them and 2nd type gasket is totally not available and never was.
reinhart FEB 20, 02:32 AM
Yea I have like 5 extra gaskets I don't need. I might have gotten a better deal had I known I only needed like 5 gaskets out of the 12 gasket set. Seems like they would be smart to just make a separate part number for a Fiero kit that includes just the gaskets needed and charge $5 less.
reinhart FEB 21, 07:30 PM
Well finally got everything put together, but it looks like I didn't get the starter installed correctly as I just hear the starter grinding and the engine didn't turn at all (still at the 10 degrees mark on the balancer). I didn't actually remove the starter just loosened the bolts and put it slightly forward so I could get the oil pan off. So I wouldn't have lost a shim if there was one. I need to figure out why the starter isn't contacting the flywheel. Starter bolts are tight. Anyone have any ideas on what I did wrong jut tightening down the starter?
reinhart FEB 22, 11:10 PM
There was a factory shim. I had removed one of the two bolts, the inner one, when I swung the starter away to get the oil pan out. When I replaced that bolt, I didn't have the shim in line with the second bolt (the shim had rotated to the side). Consequently, a both shim condition was transformed into an outer bolt only shim condition which moved the starter in two magnitudes and thus it was hitting the side of the flywheel. I replaced the shim and that solved the starter problem.

The car took forever to turn over...like 10-15 seconds of cranking (was about to give up and reroute the spark plug wires thinking I had gotten the timing off 180 degrees), but just before I was about to give up, it finally turned over and started right up and when it did sounded wonderful.

Considering how much was removed and replaced, perhaps surprisingly, I really only had two minor mistakes: 1) The starter shim, 2) I hadn't tightened one of the small thermostat hoses tight enough and it was leaking from there like a sieve.

Got those sorted out and now the car is running great. No codes or anything unusual. One small issue is the accelerator is sticking now. Happened twice during the test drive. I'll need to figure out if I just need to lube up the throttle spring or if I routed something wrong there. I never removed the throttle body from the upper plenum but it was sitting outside for 3 weeks so maybe got some dirt or corrosion in the spring area.

One other quick note. The oil pressure is amazing now. Granted I did get higher viscosity oil for the break in period (20-50) but it's at 70 psi just cruising at 50 mph with the engine moderately warmed up. I'll be curious what the pressure is like when I revert back to 10-30 oil.

Thanks for all the help in this thread.

Consider this one case closed.

[This message has been edited by reinhart (edited 02-22-2022).]

reinhart JUL 11, 02:02 AM
Wanted to give a 6 month update. Car is still running perfectly with great oil pressure! Gas mileage has increased by 15% pre-operation, which is especially welcome at this time.
Notorio JUL 17, 12:14 AM

quote
Originally posted by reinhart:

Wanted to give a 6 month update. Car is still running perfectly with great oil pressure! Gas mileage has increased by 15% pre-operation, which is especially welcome at this time.



Congratulations and thanks for sharing the good news!
reinhart JUL 20, 09:59 AM
Thanks. I had just replaced both manifolds with ported ones due a cracked front manifold just 6 months prior to this engine rebuild (plus I run without a cat) and I must say the car sounds and runs absolutely amazing now. Better than new!