Trunk won't open. 88 w power release. Jumped the switch, won't open (Page 4/5)
Mike in Sydney NOV 07, 10:18 PM

quote
Originally posted by Green Magic Man:

Yes, pictures would be terrific if that's not too difficult of an ask.
I am going to try to fish in that area where that little arc / half moon is in the fiberglass. The only opening I have on my car it's right under the flat wide trunk lid.
I have removed the license plates (see below) and there is no hole or cutout there. The only spot I can see viable to pop that latch would be that half circle cutout in the vertical fiberglass body.

On the pictured above car there is clearly a key lock cutout and lock installed in the lid vertical small area along with that tunnel.

My can unfortunately doesn't have that.
I do have the seller's constant info. I'm a little pissed off at him as he owes me money for a deposit made on license plates I borrowed to get the car into this country.
I mailed them back to him when I was working in Canada about 2 months later and he's refusing to return the deposit money.
So I have not been in touch with him because ... I'm likely to go off on him about the situation.

I may have to do a combo or arguing with him and asking him how the hell I screwdriver my way into the car.
All I can recall is he said it had to be a very long screwdriver.
Maybe that indicated that tunnel length in the Mera above, but if there is no key lock and therefore access is only below that area... I would think the latch mechanism would be blocked by the trunk deck lid underside profile the way that latch mounts to it.
So that's what I'm very concerned about. I should be driving back up there this weekend (t's 2+ hours from where I live and work).




I believe the Mera in your picture is built on a 1986 or later GT platform. You can tell by the shape of the weather stripping around the trunk. GT's from 1986 had the flying butresses and square-shaped trunk openings. The deck-lid in Cliff's pictures is from a coupe' . Note the oval-shaped area where the weather stripping would seal. Also, the lock assembly in the coupe' is mounted on the decklid and passes through the panel. On the GT, the keylock is mouonted under the decklid but doesn't pass through it. I believe it's further out than on the coupe' so that's why you're likely to need a long, flat-bladed scew driver with a blad about 1/4" wide.

If you are daring, try taking some nylon wedges and tapping them into the joint on one side of the lock. (I found them in the U.S. at a Home Depot hardware store. They are sold as shims that are used for centering windows and doors into opening when building or renovating houses. You could use wooden wedges but the nylon ones com in various sizes from 1/8/" to 1/2" at the big end.) By tapping in on one side of the lock, you may be able to get enough room to allow you to insert the screw driver and "pop" the lock. I'd be careful about shimming on both sides and it may cause the decklid to crack.

[This message has been edited by Mike in Sydney (edited 11-07-2024).]

Green Magic Man NOV 08, 12:06 PM
Did some heavy digging and tunneling email chains and a google link and found pics of my actual car!
(Finally) These two pics are of my actual car and that area where the lock is.
Quite interesting. It appears to me in the first picture like the 'lock tunnel' may have been deliberately cut / drilled for I hope this very purpose !
Also, It appears that the length of the latch to the rear of the fiberglass body is nowhere near as far as the Mera I found online. So that's hopeful.
Possting these for those curious and in case it can help Fejer rebody owners (and other non-Mera splash mold 308 / 328 people). It will also help me when I get to the remote garage tomorrow night in the dark.

[This message has been edited by Green Magic Man (edited 11-08-2024).]

Sage NOV 08, 01:09 PM






Not sure if these will show up on this post or not...as they only exist on my computer....not anywhere on the "net"...as of yet.

If you can't see them, LMK and I can try to send them directly to you in a PM, or an email.

The hole you see there between the top license plate mounting holes, is right at 3 3/4" up from the bottom of the license plate recess, and 17 1/2" from the inside middle edge of the left (drivers side in the U.S.) tail/brake light lens.

If you can see the pics here, I've included the pic of the latch mechanism showing the "slot" where normally the flat rod that using the trunk key would turn, is on a stock Fiero, that's where you need to insert the flat head screwdriver and turn clockwise to open the latch.

I've also included a pic of how the latch assembly is mounted on my car, don't know that it's the same, or even close to how yours might be mounted, but it's got to be somewhat similar.

Again, if the pics don't show up in this thread, and you want them, LMK and I'll try sending them via PM or email.

Good luck!

HAGO!

[This message has been edited by Sage (edited 11-08-2024).]

Green Magic Man NOV 08, 04:54 PM
Thanks Sage!!
Yes I see the three pics. They’re now out there on the internets and longer your exclusive property lol.

I’m surprised how low that access hole is!
Would never have guessed it was so far down the vertical body panel.
I’m also curious if that mounting bracket you show in photo 3 is pure stock Fiero or if this was something the re-body maker did to lower the stock latch?

I’ve seen the Meras and several others have keyholes up quite high. So high in fact it’s in the lid itself not the lower vertical trunk body. Also I think that could be shared with stock Fieros from what I’ve seen online.

I’m wondering if mine is a “tweener” and splits the difference from the high mount key hole (and therefore metal bar / slot access to latch) and you’re setup which seems to be quite lower.

What does that mounting plate seem to you? Stock GM or third party shop made?

Thanks again. Really hoping this mystery ends well tomorrow night. Will post results and pics if I can ever get it opened.

[This message has been edited by Green Magic Man (edited 11-08-2024).]

Green Magic Man NOV 08, 05:08 PM
Also studying the three sets of pics closely I think I may be in error: I’m now thinking the photo of my car simply cuts off the rest of the trunk lid.
I’m actually thinking my setup might be identical to that Mera - the only exception is that the body on my car was never cut on the lid itself and therefore a lock was never installed. The tunnel from the mold is there. The tunnel was cut to gain manual access to an emergency lock out (dead batt).
So I’m now thinking I do need an exceptionally long screwdriver and to try to follow that tunnel shell downward angle rather than straight horizontal insert of screwdriver and see how long it takes to hit a hole in one and twist.
I’ll probably time myself.
Patrick NOV 08, 06:31 PM

I think I see where all the confusion lies. In a regular Fiero, the latching mechanism is mounted on the underside of the decklid. That also appears to be where it's mounted on GMM's rebody. However, on Sage's Stinger body, it appears (correct me if I'm wrong) that the latching mechanism is mounted down inside the trunk... and that's why the access hole from outside is so low. This also means of course that the metal "loop" (whatever it's called) that the mechanism catches on has been relocated as well. Regular Fiero, it's in the trunk... on a Stinger, it'll be on the underside of the decklid.
Green Magic Man NOV 08, 06:47 PM
Oh interesting catch.
So the Stinger is reversed?
The hoop is on deck lid and the latch is in the car trunk / mounted on the vertical trunk body (behind the license plate area on the inside of car?)
That’s quite a solution to the Stinger rebody.
Love the Stingers by the way!!
Patrick NOV 08, 07:37 PM

quote
Originally posted by Green Magic Man:

The hoop is on deck lid and the latch is in the car trunk / mounted on the vertical trunk body (behind the license plate area on the inside of car?)



Sage can confirm this... but yeah, that's gotta be how it's done.
Sage NOV 09, 08:34 AM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Sage can confirm this... but yeah, that's gotta be how it's done.



Yes, that is the case on the Stinger, and the plate that the latch is mounted on is definitely a builder fabbed piece.

I have Fejers molds to make the 308 bodies, and I'm thinking that the "dip" in the taillight panel may have something to do with the latch mechanism, but I've not built one, so can't say for sure, but I do have a Fejer body sitting on an 88' chassis out at my shop, and I can check next time I'm able to make it out there, (sort of can't go anymore due to wife's situation), and see if that dip may be instrumental in tripping the latch without power or a key. Pretty long shot, and I know you want in your trunk...yesterday....but I'm somewhat limited, timewise for trips to the shop.

If/when I do make it out there, I'll report back on that situation.

HAGO!
Green Magic Man NOV 09, 08:38 PM
Thanks Sage.
You know what I think?
That cutout dip in the fiberglass is to accommodate that metal tunnel for the latch lever that travels to the latch…
Hoping to prove this theory in four hours.
I bet that’s why it’s there. I can cram a very thin something in there.