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Bumpsteer bracket (Page 5/6) |
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wftb
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NOV 15, 07:53 AM
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16" . A 15" rim might clear but I don't have one to check it with.
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mender
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NOV 15, 11:02 AM
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Good to know. I run 17's so no issue for me.
I might move the pivot inboard toward the spindle along the same axis for a little more clearance if I make some extras. My daughter's Fiero might become a test car for the street.
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mender
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NOV 15, 03:52 PM
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Stock rear lower control arm with ball joint and bushings is 5.8 lbs.
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wftb
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DEC 15, 10:51 PM
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Updating this thread because I am installing better bushings on the lower control arms. So I have the bracket I built off and i realized I have never posted pictures of the bracket by itself. It weighs 1 lb 2.5 ounces and cross dimensions are 5" each way. Not very big at all. It works great and solves the bumpsteer problem completely.I have put a lot of miles on it and had it at a track day with no problems. While I have it off I am going to smooth it out and paint it.
This chassis nut was ground smooth and welded in to a DOM tube.
A 1/2" grade 8 nut was welded to a 1/8" 1" by 1" piece of steel and welded in to an angled 1" by 1" piece of 1/8" square tube:
Some other random pics:
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mender
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DEC 16, 08:32 PM
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wftb
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DEC 16, 11:21 PM
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That looks great. Nice to see somebody else doing stuff like this. I have been reading up about anti squat and I am going to add some at my upper control arm mounts. I may have to use Febest bushings in my lower controls arms as my del-a-lums are about a 1/4" too wide. Hoping I can open the mounts up a bit to get them to fit because it will be less work than making stuff from scratch.
The rod ends I used are just some cheap ones I got from Speedway. One thing I noticed was only the end that bolts directly to the chassis showed any signs of wear. The rod end that goes in to the bracket does not seem to move very much and is still like new. I have some really good ends to put on the chassis side when I get it all back together.[This message has been edited by wftb (edited 12-16-2017).]
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mender
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DEC 17, 12:26 PM
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What size did you use for the rod ends?
I'm thinking of using the QA1 XM series in the 8-10 size, self-lubricating, self-sealing and spec'ed for 4 links and ladder bars.
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wftb
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DEC 17, 05:52 PM
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I used 5/8 thread with 1/2" holes in the ends. Got them with the 9" swedge tubes from Speedway. They were cheap units, I have better ones to put on but I can't find the invoice for them. I get a lot of my stuff from Grisdales in Dundas Ont because I can drive down and they have a ton of stuff in stock. [This message has been edited by wftb (edited 12-17-2017).]
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wftb
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DEC 18, 08:44 AM
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I dont think you can go wrong with QA1 stuff. I have their coilovers and have been very happy with them. They seem pretty indestructable. The last time I bought some rod ends I went through the QA1 catalogue and picked out what I thought would work and went down to Grisdales and they sold me some from Radial Bearing that they said were better (and they did not have the QA1 that I wanted in stock) These were 48.00 each 5/8 studs and 5/8" opening in the end.
I made this arm up but it did not work out. I am going to use these rod ends for the bumpsteer bracket control rods. I have the right size spacers to adapt the 5/8 opening down to 1/2" and 12 mm for mounting. We will see how long these ones last.
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wftb
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DEC 19, 06:37 PM
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This is the control rod that was on the passenger side for about 2 summers:
The side that is crossways is the worn end from the frame side. The other end is still like new so I am not going to put one of my good ends there. With the lack of wear I probably will never have to replace the knuckle ends. The centre of the rod ends are 13" give or take the way they are set in the picture.[This message has been edited by wftb (edited 12-19-2017).]
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