LQ1 swap build thread (25 years to late) (Page 8/8)
fliphone AUG 07, 12:29 AM
Hoping to get back into consistent-ish updates again as this winter I would like to get the car switched over to a standalone in preparation for a little bit of a project I've been mulling over in the old nuggin. But for the time being I'll spill some big hitting items I've done since my last post. The biggest item on the list is I actually drove the car at Laguna Seca on an open track day and the car KILLED IT!! I did have to watch oil temps near the end of the sessions, but apart from that there was no red flags to speak of. And even better, since then the car is now in daily mode while the truck is being torn down for an engine rebuild/front end overhaul. I've got ~5k miles on the swap and have only one real issue to speak of, and it's hot starts.

Trouble with hot starts and only hot starts are really leading me to believe it's a tuning issue as to HOW it's having trouble with hot starts. It's cranking and firing ok, but the idle drops down to (what the tach claims) ~450-500 rpm then idles very rough and dies. After one or two failed cranks it'll "catch" itself and smooth out and idle up to 1500 then down to 1100ish. One note is cold starts are FLAWLESS. Everytime.

The other reason for standalone? We are goin ITBs baby! Why ITBs? Because having V6 ITB sounds coming from behind your head has been an experience hoarded by the Porsche peeps for far to long. So I will be making a set of ITBs for my V6 out of 2 sets of triumph motorcycle ITBs in due time. Eventually. Hopefully.

Be back soon!!
eph_kay AUG 08, 01:02 PM
If you have any questions about megasquirt, ITBs, TDC stuff feel free to message me and I'll get you my email or phone number. I have had my hands on a TDC micro squirt track fiero(I did the wiring and tuning), lots of gen 3 and gen 4 60v6 megasquirt fieros(start to finish builds NA and turbo), and even an ITB 3900 I built running on micro squirt. Would love to help with the project anyway I can

Chris
Dennis LaGrua AUG 08, 06:40 PM
We have seen just a very few LQ1 swaps over the years so I must congratulate you on completing this project. You've got 215 HP and that is far better than 140 HP. I believe the 3.4TDC engine was only manufactured for 4 years so its quite rare to see one still on the road.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

fliphone AUG 10, 11:54 PM
Thanks! Hopefully under my care she'll stay on the road while being LQ1 powered for years to come. As well as getting some new improvements along the way
Dennis LaGrua AUG 12, 07:48 PM
That high revving 3.4TDC driving experience may be best suited to a stick like the F40. BTW, I would not say that you are 25 years too late. Your engine swap choice may be one seldom used but you did a great job on this swap and on the mods. . This past June there was one 3.4TDC Fiero at Carlisle. The owner said that he was able to locate a brand new crate engine. He liked it. The engine looks like a tight fit and my only concern was that changing spark plugs may be difficult. Anyway keep tuning, enjoy it and many thanks for sharing your build thread,

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

fliphone SEP 19, 12:33 AM
Alright Guys in topical project fashion it has tripled in size more than I originally anticipated. So here's the plan.

1. Gotta get the car on the microsquirt standalone. This may unfortunately be the only thing that happens this year and possibly for the next year as well while I'm off living the FULL broke days in college. While it's ambitious, I think having a built harness (that I'll be making a harness board out of) will make this project a little more digestible. So hopefully that will start soon because.....well the fieros down again. Runs great! does not drive straight :/. More to come!



Waiting for parts until next month on the car so once my trucks back to being roadworthy (getting every bit of TLC I neglected while building the car, and its A LOT) then the cars going back under the scalpel.

2. Start Acquiring parts! My current shopping list is just some ideas pinging around in the old noggin but here's what I got so far.
-two sets of triumph 1050cc speed triple throttle bodies (06-12 ish) and the mounting boots to go with them. The throttle body size is actually a pretty good for the LQ1 and the are a 3 cylinder motor. Plus their cheap
-A solid scan of a 2nd gen lower intake manifold
-A better computer to start playing with CAD
-A 3D printer
- everything to make a working "throttle by wire" system (more later)
- and an ASTRONOMICAL amount of knowledge and practice with CAD
That's right, I'm skipping strait to the final exam of cad and 3d printing by making and printing custom port matched intake runners to go from head to ITBs and trumpets all out of a carbon something or other filament that is known for being difficult to print! Can't be that hard right?
A. I've been dying to get into 3d printing
B. I'll be acquiring a better computer for college already
C. I will be taking classes relating to CAD while in college
D. 3d printers seem to have gotten to a point where I can comfortably get into it for a reasonable cost

So why 3d print the manifolds over literally ANY other form of manufacturing? Because somehow it'll almost be cheaper...Almost. Almost all the other options revolved modding the stock lower plenum to the ITB plenum. And the ports aren't exactly shaped similarly. Forming an aluminum tube to the correct shape would be extremely difficult, I thought of having custom runners CNC'd and welded on but money, trying to backyard cast a new plenum seemed fun but beyond what my skill set may ever be, and making a whole new plenum out of steel also came to the same difficult position of forming the runners properly. So that really only left me a full CNC plenum made or 3d printing, and unfortunately the shiny custom cnc lower plenum would probably cost more than the car.

3. Actually put my money where my mouth is and get a working manifold. Luckily I won't actually have been the first to do something like this, I've seen stories of some factory teams using a 3d printed part with brass inserts anywhere a fastener is involved without to much of an issue (the extent of the abuse i'm unsure of). There are also tidbits of info out there in regards to this process. The two main concerns of mine at the moment is full interacting with the print and the longevity of the part(s). The injector will be basically in the flange to print (leaving fuel delivery stock to the best of my ability, but may need to change fuel rails), so fuel shouldn't be a major concern. But I would still like to find some way to coat the inside of the print to prevent corrosion. As for longevity I may only learn the true limits of these parts as time goes on, especially with what I've got planned out.

4. Getting everything to work around the ITB's. Say I somehow beat the odds and get the ITB's mounted to the engine, I gotta move em. Luckily I thought up the most difficult method to do so. Convert to throttle by wire. I found a product listed here: https://wtmtronics.com/product/dbw2/ that is able to run two throttle by wire motors off of a single pedal input. The dual motor output solves the issue of "splitting" throttle cable or making linkage to join the two banks. The reason this product is so special is it is almost a standalone for the DBW system, with the only thing the system needs is power to operate and only giving out a clean and simple TPS signal that microsquirt can manage. No other control modules of input output from a nicer ECU needed. So hopefully I can gut a couple of electronic TBs and repurpose the motors to work on the triumph ITBs.

5. If by some act of god I can pull off everything listed above and still have any interest in ever picking up a wrench, I gotta get some fresh air to the motor. So the plan would be to build a air box around the open trumpets probably out of plexiglass and have it "mate" to the top of the decklid where a functional decklid scoop will be installed.
It's hard to describe but I'll make a box like this (replace the air filter with the ITBs on top of the motor):

and use a scoop like this:

Along with a piece of very breathable foam somewhere in there to have some filtration.
Then when the decklid is popped there are the open trumpets clear as day while also hopefully help dropping the IATs a couple of degrees.

I know this is a MASSIVE endeavour likely riveling the engine swap itself but pulling it off would be phenomenal. At some point in the near future I'll be starting the harness board for the Microsquirt and get the writeup started again. In the meantime if anyone has any feedback on the shotty game plan I have laid out feel free to shoot me a PM or reply here, my reply notifications are on. Oh, and the suspension break was extremely lucky and should be back and beefed up in less than a month. Gn everyone!!

------------------
Black 88 GT, a 19 year old here about 20 years to late
- Running(?) LQ1 Swap-

Dukesterpro NOV 01, 12:31 PM
Fliphone you dont have a Fiero Discord do you? Seem like some of us rare younger fans need a better way to connect