I bought this 88 Coupe in 1999, I'm the second owner.

This is the only pic I can find of it after all these years as it was born, except for the wheels, spoiler, engine and a few other things. The Holley scoop sold on eBay for $197.50
I wanted a fastback, so...


Then I kept going, adding t-tops, a turbocharger and a few other things. This next pic was taken at Wheatstock in Topeka, Kansas in 2004.


I always liked the IMSA, but not so much the stock ones. They look a bit "odd" to me with the low wheel arches and some other things. Then I find this one listed in The Mall section.



Yes, I bought it. I moved the body from the 85GT it was on over to my 88 Coupe. I wonder how many go from a notchback to a fastback, then back to a notchback? However, there are some things about it I want to change. I'm lowering the front wheel arches a bit and tweaking the rest. Which is why I am making this thread - I need help!

Here it is today:

I lowered the front arches about an inch and a half and widened the front about the same. The rear is wider as well and I shaped the opening differently. In that pic the rear has 10" wide wheels with 0 offset and you can't even see them.

I'm using foam and sheetrock mud to make the changes. I've heard others have done the same with success. Now what I need help with is finishing it properly. Should I make molds if I don't plan to make any copies?

The fuel filler might need to be relocated. I was thinking about the deck vent, but my liquid intercooler is there.

An earlier pic, before I started on the back. That car has become a storage shelf. I have some cleaning and organizing to do in the garage.


I'm gonna need help to finish and maybe some prodding to keep going.

[This message has been edited by SCCA FIERO (edited 01-28-2014).]

Keep in mind, there is usually a difference between a mold made for a "one of" and a "production" mold.

The one of mold does not have to be as thick (fewer layers of reinforcement) and the tooling gel coat on the pulling surface is not an absolute necessity (could just use regular gel coat) but is a better grade (withstands higher temps) of gel coat.

There are plenty of sites with info on how to go about it, but here is one that I generally pass on to those looking to do something like you're contemplating: http://www.fibreglast.com/category/Learning_Center

You could back your mold with foam core or something similar and still not have to use as much reinforcement, but basically end up with a near production quality mold, especially if you spring for the tooling gel to pull from.

Their prices on materials is kinda high, but the info is good. We generally get our supplies at Composite One.

With what you've done thus far, there's no question you'll do great with the finish up part!

On the other hand, if you go about it right, you could do what you were thinking in the first place and not have to make a mold at all, just up to you what you want to end up with. If I'm understanding you right, you planned to build up what you want, skin it with fiberglass, then remove the material/s used to do the build up and leave the new fiberglass shell as your finished surface? No reason that couldn't be made to work, just a matter of what you want to do. Most guys who have done what you are doing, want the new part to look like a new part, inside and out, that's why they make a mold in the first place. See if you can find the thread done by Alex, who I believe was in FL at the time when posted about making his wide body car, which turned out beautifully. He did exactly what you are doing....made the mods he wanted to the body, made molds and pulled the parts to build his car the way he wanted it. Don't remember his exact screen name, but he used the car as part of his entry requirements to get into an engineering/design school, and I think is now employed in the field. I'm sure somebody else on here can chime in and fill in the particulars, it was an impressive project, and turned out well. He made his own molds, not even sure if he even used gel coat in his, but it does make it easier to take parts out of.


HAGO!

[This message has been edited by Sage (edited 01-28-2014).]

Yeah, I've been to Fiberglast and watched many videos, watched quite a bit on Youtube as well.

I was thinking about making a skin and finishing it on the outside instead of making molds. But I wasn't sure which way would be easier/better. It sounds like making molds is the way to go. Making a skin would be difficult in the area whith the ground effects, which are molded in. A mold would likely transfer that line a bit better.

One thing I am worried about is the mud releasing the mold without a lot of it coming off, even though it wouldn't be too hard to remove it. The mud is dry and likes to 'suck up' anything with moisture. I watch a guy's Youtube channel who recommended Mother's pure carnauba paste wax for a release agent. And since it's a paste, I think it might work. It seems it's the only thing he uses. He makes hood scoops and the like for a company whose name I can't remember at the moment. Any thoughts on that?

I'm still in the process of shaping it the way I want it. I've changed the front twice and still trying to decide on the rear where the clip goes up to the roof.

The IMSA panel in that area is already a couple inches wider than a stock panel.
I went out to the garage and started to organize a bit, still a ways to go. Snapped some pics when I was out there.




Something I am using to get the other side the same.

I found it at Home Depot for like 10 bucks in the tile section.

[This message has been edited by SCCA FIERO (edited 01-28-2014).]

Your release agent is going to be key in getting the molds off without pulling your plugs apart.

Duratec makes a good finish to make a mold on. Used to be able to use laquer paint, but you just can't get the "real" stuff anymore, not even sure if anybody still makes it. They sell stuff that's called "laquer", but it's nothing like what it used to be.

You just have to make sure your plugs are sealed good, and end up slick enough that "a fly couldn't land on it" , that's what the guy I learned from always said.

I generally use gel coat to seal-finish off a plug. Yes, you still have to put the hardner in ( a little more than usual) and work fairly quickly, I spray it on with a regular hvlp gun (about 5 coats) thinned with acetone or laquer thinner (50/50) and have never had a problem seperating the mold afterward. Proper prep is the key.

Whatever you end up using, you'll want to fine sand it (usually wet) up to at least #600, and if you want to go all out, all the way up to #1200, but most don't bother and it's not necessary, just depends on how smooth you want your finished part, and how much work you want to do to get it that way after it's out of the mold. Most molds are going to be wet sanded and buffed before they get used, but again, depends on how much work you want to do and when you want to do it.

Then the waxing comes......again, up to what you want to end up with, and how much work you want to do to get there, and if you want to do it now, or later. The more time you spend making your mold the way it should be, the less work you'll have to do to your parts when they come out. Being that you're going for a one of, I wouldn't go overboard on the molds, cause you're only going to have to work one set of parts, one time, but the rule is the same....the more work/time you put into the molds, generally, the better your parts come out. I usually put about 10 coats of wax on a new mold before using it the first time. Not sure you'd have to go to that extreme, but....see above^. Whatever you do for a finish and/or waxing, you'll want to use a seperate release agent like PVA or Fibrelease, to help ensure you don't have trouble getting the mold off your plug.

Don't wanna overstep my bounds here, so will bow out. Should you have any more questions for me, feel free to PM or email me.


Good luck, judging by what you've done in the past and up to now, don't see where you're gonna have any problem getting what you are wanting.


HAGO!

[This message has been edited by Sage (edited 01-29-2014).]