Lost on how to fix no start V6 2.8L (Page 1/2)
wwcvel OCT 14, 03:50 PM
I’m a noob who’s probably over my head on getting this 1986 Fiero v6 SE running. I’ve posted a couple times previously. Right now I feel like I’m going around in an endless loop messing with the distributor and things are only getting worse. What I’m doing isn’t working, what should I do next?

I’m currently trying to just get the thing to start regularly so I can start troubleshooting the countless other issues the car has.

I changed the oil, oil filter, spark plugs , spark plug wires, new battery, new battery cables, cleaned the grounds to the engine and frame with a wire wheel, replaced the ICM, rotor, distributor cap, pickup, ignition coil, tried to find top dead center and reinstall the distributor repeatedly, and replaced every pigtail involving the ignition. I’ve done a lot of troubleshooting suggested in the Haynes manual and the service manual, and it doesn’t appear to be a problem with the ignition complements or fuel pump. I’ve managed to get the engine to run poorly exactly once for only a few minutes, and currently it is struggling to crank when I turn the key. I didn’t dare to try running it longer because the radiator fan is not working correctly. I’ve gotten it to almost start a couple more times, but I have no idea what I’m doing to get it close to that point. If I let it sit and charge overnight goes back to barely being able to crank. The distributor is sending spark to the spark plugs. The engine is easy to crank by hand from the harmonic balancer. The battery and starter have both been tested as being good by the auto parts store. The fuel pump is turning on and fuel pressure is 45+ psi when I turn the key. The engine has compression, but I have not tested it yet due to the fact it is cranking so slowly now. I imagine repeatedly cranking the thing with no start isn’t helping my cause any.

Video of Fiero running poorly (the only time it actually ran)

Video of Fiero trying to start today. Battery is fully charged.

[This message has been edited by wwcvel (edited 10-14-2018).]

wwcvel OCT 14, 03:59 PM
Of course I messed up on posting this and posted it twice.
crazyd OCT 14, 06:12 PM
Hard to tell, but when it ran in the video it sounded like you had a major vacuum leak and the timing is way off.
Gall757 OCT 14, 06:30 PM
What's the history of the car? Has it been cared for? Has it sat for a long time?
wwcvel OCT 14, 08:54 PM

quote
Originally posted by crazyd:

Hard to tell, but when it ran in the video it sounded like you had a major vacuum leak and the timing is way off.



I had literally just stuck in the distributor and very roughly lined it up after reinstalling the starter. I turned the key around 1AM to see if the starter would crank, and I was shocked when it started. I turned it off after the video hoping to get back to it at a better time and time it with the timing gun, but it's never ran again no matter what I've tried. If I had been aware it was a one-time-only event I might have planned things better. The vacuum leak probably involves the EGR valve/tube and Fuel Evap Canister. I was hoping to troubleshoot that after I fixed the starting problems or is that now the starting problems?


quote
Originally posted by Gall757:

What's the history of the car? Has it been cared for? Has it sat for a long time?



180k miles. It's been poorly maintained except for a brand new set of tires. EGR Valve, and Charcoal/Fuel Evap Canister were bypassed from engine. All of the connectors I've replaced in the wiring harness were in terrible shape. The Radiator fan relay was bypassed and the fan was hardwired to the battery. Starter was badly mounted to engine with large nuts used as washers because they couldn't get starter bolts all the way in hole (which caused a no crank problem). AC/Heater blower doesn't work. Oil was not milky when I bought the car but it was low, and it did not leak after I changed it, transmission fluid is red and smells fine, radiator still had coolant in it and isn't leaking, brake fluid is full. E-brake is dead. Axle joints are leaking. Other than acid corrosion on the battery tray (which I replaced), it has no rust or frame damage and the interior of the car is in pretty good shape. I can optimistically guess it hasn't been driven for close to a year, because it was legally registered and insured in 2017 - early 2018 before I bought it.

[This message has been edited by wwcvel (edited 10-14-2018).]

fierosound OCT 15, 12:14 AM
I'd say your distributor is in wrong.
Hard cranking happens when you have high advance of 16 degrees or more.

Get your #1 cylinder to TDC and recheck distributor location.

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Fiero2m4Fastback OCT 15, 01:08 AM
Sounds like you need to jumper the correct pins in the obd1 connector and set the timing. Then verify your wires are in the correct order.
andreww OCT 15, 01:42 PM
Gotta be running to set the timing though.
computer_engineer OCT 15, 02:28 PM
Trick I learned while working on my 87GT to find TDC (top dead center). If you have an inspection camera...the kind they use to look through a hole in a wall or in a tight space, you can use that to look inside cylinder one. Remove the spark plug for the number one cylinder. Stick the CCD probe just inside the spark plug hole. You can see the top of the piston and still look at the image as the piston rises and falls, while you turn the crank with a wrench Take note and line the rotor up with the number one cylinder's spark plug, and you should be good. That will at least get you close enough where it should run. If it doesn't run at all, you can turn the crank another half turn and line the rotor up again. If it still doesn't run, then you may have to start with fuel and spark issues, and work those out before returning to timing on your distributor.

Good luck!
ltlfrari OCT 15, 02:45 PM
Just use a stick/rod/whatever down through the plug hole to 'fel' for top dead center. Usually close enough to get you running.

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