Linear Headlight motor Success! (Page 1/5)
JMTUT MAR 26, 01:09 PM
I had read on the forums many reasons why a linear motor would not work on the fiero headlights and being the contrary person I am, I decided to give it a try.

I purchased the following unit on Amazon for $38.00 with no shipping cost. Here is the link https://www.amazon.com/gp/p...02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It is a 2" stroke motor with up to 225 lbs force. In the size/stroke needed to fit in the existing area, I could find 5Lb or 225 lb actuators for a reasonable price.
The actuator has "non-adjustable" limit switches built into the actuator that cut power at the end of each stroke direction. (they are adjustable if you can use a soldering iron)


Some modification was required to the headlight assembly.
I had to remove one ear where the original swing arm was attached for clearance. I left the other in place in case I need to go back to the original design.


I also had to add a 5/16" rod 1" from the hinge point across the moveable part of the assembly.


I use the full extension of the linear motor but did not need the full retraction. I moved the retract limit switch to the position on the rail which gave me a stop point where the headlight is fully lowered.


This did require de-soldering the limit switch and moving it. Make sure you keep the diode in the right direction when resoldering the connections. I hope your soldering skills are better than mine. Be very careful at this stage. If the wire contacts the case, the motor may still work until you get it in the car. Then strange things start to happen. (don't ask me how I know)

[This message has been edited by JMTUT (edited 03-26-2019).]

Patrick MAR 26, 01:32 PM

quote
Originally posted by JMTUT:

I had read on the forums many reasons why a linear motor would not work on the fiero headlights and being the contrary person I am, I decided to give it a try.



This is kind of a basic question, but is the linear motor you're using designed to work in a wet environment?
JMTUT MAR 26, 01:44 PM
The motor I'm using is IP67 rated. (washdown capable)
Here is a video if it actually works.

https://www.youtube.com/wat...3mw&feature=youtu.be
JMTUT MAR 26, 04:10 PM
As you can tell. The motor is about 1.5 seconds slower than the left original. There are faster motors out there or I can change the gearing in this one and lose a little power. I wanted to prove out the concept before I go to the expense of running another motor.

I have ordered a motor from ebay that looks like it will be a lot faster for the other side.
theogre MAR 26, 04:21 PM
Nice write up but Sorry, your Limit Switches setup likely have problems now and soon.

Now... Look like Won't stop when jammed at any travel point. Gen 1 limit switch and Gen 2 modules does just that. Yes, Gen 1 switches can turn on when any jam is removed and Gen 2 just kill power until you try open/close again but both try to protect the system.

Soon... Motors Assembly maybe "Wash down" tolerate but the Switches are likely Not even rated for that and water/dirt will attack them. If they fail Open then is a big pain in the ass. If they fail Closed then motors can break whatever and draw Full Stall Amps and burn out the weakest wiring. If they fail partially Close then motors will see the power drop and draw more Amps as in my Cave, Electric Motors, where many fried the motors, relays etc. Standard Fuses/Links often won't protect these problems.

IOW Motors w/ problem switches at EoT or Jammed anywhere can break the motors, whatever attach to and/or melt or cause fires like both factory setups have done.
Is why Gen 1 have a Thermal Breaker in the motors. Cliff P and a few others "Repair" Gen 2 modules only to melt the module and 1 or both motors at minimum.

Plus small "Cherry Style" you have and other small switches won't last long w/ "big" DC loads. "Big" often is > 1 to 2 DC Amps. Most Amp Ratings on the case are only AC. Run DC and derate that to Half or Less or expect contacts to burn fast. Even much heavier PW switch like Fiero uses burns out contacts and worse if windows have binding problems. Is not just Inductive loads either. Many have tried DIY HL Main and/or Dimmer switches only to have small switches melt and is a purely Resistance Loading that's can be well under AC Amp Rating on the case.

Related Example: Old/Cheap Garage Door motors often only have EoT switches and break things when chain/belt/screw jams. Some have Shear "Pins" but system is still broken until "pin" are replace. (Could be Pin, Bolts, or just "Weak" gears that break.) Or Could be anything else like Kids Pets etc in Path of Travel. Kids have been hurt or kill from Door Openers and why Most Building Codes now Requires them to have Light stop, Bump stop, etc, so can't close w/ anything block the door. Newer/Better systems have Better Limit switch setups or Amp Draw monitoring of some type to stop breaking parts when jammed like Fiero like Gen1 and Gen2 setup but All require to have extra protection like breaking the Light Beam shutting down the system.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

JMTUT MAR 26, 05:06 PM
Thank you for the input Ogre. The knowledge you have on this car continues to amaze me.
I do think there is a danger of the mechanical system binding and breaking so I built the weak point as the rod I installed. It will bend/break before the arms on the mechanical assembly. I know because I broke one during bench testing.
The limit switches on these are installed inside the casing so they are indeed protected from water spray. All connections I made used adhesive sealed heat shrink tubing. I have ithought about installing a motor controller which will monitor current spike but for this use, it may be unnecessary. The existing fiero relays are all in place so any danger of overload is no higher than the original design.

I do think this is a viable alternative to the original motors and allows us to use many different brands of actuators easily available on the market. The actuators range from low cost units to some that are rated for underwater use.
JMTUT MAR 28, 06:30 PM
Version 2 of the linear headlights.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/pbSvKdOg_Q8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Patrick MAR 28, 07:16 PM

quote
Originally posted by JMTUT:

Version 2 of the linear headlights.





Thanks for shooting this video in the proper orientation.
tnkgnr MAR 28, 08:14 PM
Cool project!
Darrelk MAR 29, 10:53 AM
Just a thought here kind of spitballing..... On the Bremen Sebring kit cars the headlights housings were welded to a common tube shaft running across from each headlight. A small linear actuator was mounted underneath the center of the tube and was connected by a single steel arm. A dash mounted power window momentary rocker switch put it up and down...... It was a pretty simple and neat design. When I sold my last Sebring the original 36 year old linear actuator was working just like when new. I had 4 Sebrings over the years and none of them ever had a failure in that system.