CV Joint Boot Kit (Page 1/1)
lurtz SEP 21, 08:47 AM
Hello Everyone,

I had a wonderful surprise this morning. As I was loading up my trunk, I noticed the telltale sign of a bunch of axle grease all over the interior of the engine compartment. It appears that the passenger side inner boot (closest to transmission) failed on my axle slinging the crud everywhere. I chose to keep her home today, but I am looking for a quick fix so that I can enjoy her a few more times before the salt flies. At which point I can do a proper repair.

I know the split boot kits are not the best repair, but as I stated I am looking for something that will fix my problem short term, without causing further damage.

Can anyone tell me the diamter of the axle and tulip (sp?) so that I can match up the best boot repair kit? I am looking for a split boot kit so that I can repair without having to remove suspension parts and worry about alignment. If anyone has a specific boot kit in mind please let me know!


Of course, I spent a few hours yesterday washing, waxing, and detailing her for a few fall rides before she is put away.
theogre SEP 21, 06:12 PM
splits can work if you clean the seem right. If you don't then they can fail often in hours to weeks.

Some make universal solid boots you cut to fit.
Other make solid boot kits like https://www.moogparts.com/ but maybe hard to find depend on which end etc.

Replacing axles don't wheel alignment because you don't touch strut bottom or top bolts.
See my Cave, Axle
Can do this w/o touching tie rod either. If you need to pop the rod end use rod press tool Not a "pickle fork."
Tighten tool, if needed bump the knuckle w/ hammer a few times to shake the joint.

------------------
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(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave

lurtz SEP 23, 10:17 PM
Thanks ogre! I picked up a whole
Boot kit and I will try to pull the axle without messing up the alignment.

My question now is I think I am missing a part that is used to seal the “cup” of the cv joint. It fills the gap between the boot and the folds of the cup.

Can I get this part? What is the term for this part? Can i get this part by itself, or is it unique to the axle joint?

I have a feeling that this is the part that grenaded and tore the boot up.
lurtz SEP 23, 10:19 PM
lurtz SEP 23, 10:21 PM
You can sort of see what I am referring to on the driver side. In the folds of the cup, there is a rubber gasket that the boot seals to.
lurtz SEP 23, 10:23 PM
Deleted, dup

[This message has been edited by lurtz (edited 09-23-2020).]

theogre SEP 23, 11:38 PM
You likely have an outer boot. Depending on axle, outers and inners are not =
The Inner boots I bought have part molded in them to go around and fill the tripot case. Looks like good R axle above is same.

Is often harder to find tripot inners. Try RA etc listing inner for man trans car. Auto trans often have different axle shaft size.
Most places only stock outers because Most boot fails are outers because bend a lot as wheel go up/down for bumps and turning for FWD cars.

Forgot to say boot clamps need correct tools and often torque wrench to install. W/o them, Clamp are not tight enough and leak grease or break pull too tight.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 09-23-2020).]

fierosound SEP 24, 01:40 PM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

You likely have an outer boot. Depending on axle, outers and inners are not =



Agreed. What part number did you buy?
I replaced one recently using the MOOG neoprene boot.



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[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-24-2020).]

lurtz SEP 30, 04:27 PM
I ended up returning the boots I bought and went with a brand new axle from Rock Auto. It was only 30 dollars more for a completely new unit and I did not have to worry about greasing anything up or tightening the clamp appropriately.

Everything so far has gone extremely well. Ogre your write up was perfect, and I separated the tie rod and ball joint to gain access to the cv shaft. I cannot express how much easier it is to work on this car that has never seen a winter than any of my daily drivers. I also decided to replace the wheel bearing as I suspect it is making a bit of noise and while it was apart I might as well replace it. Everything came apart so easily!!!. I did not have to use a puller or pickle fork on anything... If this is how our Southern brethren feel when working on their cars all the time then I understand why someone would want to be a mechanic for a living.

The only thing stopping me from buttoning it all up is the damage I accidentally inflicted on my axle seal. The store won't have another until tomorrow. Oh well, that was my fault.

Thank you for all your help!

CL.

[This message has been edited by lurtz (edited 09-30-2020).]

lurtz OCT 05, 10:39 PM
Here is the finished product. New axle, new bearing, new seals, and a fill up with syncromesh and everything is back to normal.

[This message has been edited by lurtz (edited 10-05-2020).]