Process Sequence for Swing down Clutch Replacement (Page 1/1)
88Fingers SEP 23, 11:19 AM
Hello Everyone. Does anyone have a process sequence one could follow to replace the clutch on an '88GT using the swing cradle down method? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
fierosound SEP 23, 11:34 AM

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88Fingers SEP 24, 07:48 PM
Thank you Fierosound! This is helpful. It may inspire me to pay someone else to do it! LOL
ltlfrari SEP 24, 09:11 PM
I've always thought the swing down method was way too dodgy for my liking. If you balance the extra work reqd to just pull the entire thing out vs working in that tight space on a car on jacks, personally I'll go for the 'just pull it' method any day. Plus with the engine out you can address all the other crap you've ben meaning to do since forever

Not saying you cannot do the swing down method or that one way is better than the other, and I am sure a shop would do it that way to save time but then a shop would have a proper lift as well.

And since I am about to do a gearbox swap, guess which method I'll be using .... !


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88Fingers SEP 25, 08:32 AM
Hey Dave, thanks for the input man!....Fred W
Raydar SEP 25, 09:44 AM
I've done it both ways. I have found it to be not much more trouble to just drop the entire cradle. Especially if you have a safe way to raise the car. (I've got an A-frame.)
The only disadvantage, in my mind, is that you have to drain and collect the coolant, disconnect the coolant hoses and fuel lines, and push the engine harness out through the firewall.
Other than that, most all of the "disconnects" are the same.
88Fingers SEP 25, 11:49 AM
Thanks Raydar, the more input I get, the more I can decide how to go about it.
Dennis LaGrua SEP 26, 12:20 PM
We drop the cradle when replacing a clutch and find it to be easier than just swinging the cradle down but there is a professional two post lift here in the garage with a hydraulic table . Never did one without the lift. With the powertrain in the car you must remove the left strut, knuckle crossover pipe and all else. We find its far easier to remove some of these with the cradle out and the knuckle stays in place that way.

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fieroguru SEP 26, 12:49 PM
I have done it 3 different ways. Full cradle/drivetrain drop, rotate the cradle down (but not removed), and remove the cradle vs rotating it down (engine supported from above).

If all I am doing is messing with is the transmission, I do not do a full drivetrain drop (requires removing interior parts, disconnecting the wiring, and coolant and fuel lines - and subsequent connection and refill). I also leave the rear suspension with the chassis so I don't have to disconnect the brakes or bleed them upon reinstall (I do this even when I do a full cradle/drivetrain drop).

If you take it to a shop for clutch replacement, they will likely do the engine support/cradle removal, as it saves a little time on removal, and quite a bit of time on install/startup. It also avoids them being involved with any potential later issues with brakes, coolant, fuel and electrical systems because the don't need to touch those systems to work on the clutch.

To efficiently support the engine/transmission and be able to lower it for the transmission removal, you really need to fabricate a custom support bar as many of the generic ones won't rest in the proper spots on the Fiero chassis. Here is the one I made that locks into holes in the strut towers and rests on the top of the upper frame rails.