 
     |
| 88 w/I4 OK for 3800 swap? (Page 1/2) |
|
Todd00000
|
NOV 12, 01:11 PM
|
|
I've found a high mile 88 for cheap it has the I-4 w/auto. I want to swap the SC3800 w/4 speed automatic.
Since I want to do this swap is there any reason to avoid this car?
|
|
|
|
Gall757
|
NOV 12, 01:47 PM
|
|
|
|
|
Todd00000
|
NOV 12, 02:21 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by Gall757:
no |
|
Thank you. Now comes the "is it worth it?" debate. It has 289,000 miles.
1. The swap cost and associated rear end rebuild are a given no matter the car.
2. The interior looks surprisingly good in the pictures and should only cost a little more to get nice than what I was planning to do on any Fiero.
3. It needs a paint job and the base wheels will be replaced.
4. Headlights overhauled.
5. Front suspension rebuilt.
6. Needs new struts.
7. Needs brakes rebuilt.
What else does a high mileage Fiero need?
|
|
|
|
Gall757
|
NOV 12, 02:36 PM
|
|
|
88 front wheel bearings will not hold up if you race the car. They will be fine for normal driving. Watch out for rust.
|
|
|
|
Todd00000
|
NOV 12, 02:42 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by Gall757:
88 front wheel bearings will not hold up if you race the car. They will be fine for normal driving. Watch out for rust. |
|
Where should I inspect for rust?
|
|
|
|
Dennis LaGrua
|
NOV 12, 03:51 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by Todd00000:
Where should I inspect for rust? |
|
Jack up rear of car. Use jack stands. Remove both rear wheels. Next remove the wheel house liners. Several small hex screws and a couple of fasteners hold them in place. Look up at the frame rails and examine if they are solid or rusted. If they are rusted then the frame is toast. The car is basically scrap. ------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
|
|
|
|
Todd00000
|
NOV 12, 04:23 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:
Jack up rear of car. Use jack stands. Remove both rear wheels. Next remove the wheel house liners. Several small hex screws and a couple of fasteners hold them in place. Look up at the frame rails and examine if they are solid or rusted. If they are rusted then the frame is toast. The car is basically scrap.
|
|
Is there an easy place to look when the car is at a dealer?
|
|
|
|
Gall757
|
NOV 12, 05:22 PM
|
|
|
|
|
Todd00000
|
NOV 12, 06:06 PM
|
|
That does help. Thank you.
|
|
|
|
Raydar
|
NOV 12, 09:12 PM
|
|
Pull back the trunk carpet on both sides of the trunk. The "short" sides. Look between the top, where the rubber seal is, and the little shelf that is on each side.
The cleaner that "side wall" is, the better. Look out for big holes and/or metal just rotted away.
Rust can appear in other places, but if it's anywhere, it will usually be in one of these places. Either side. No real rhyme or reason as to left or right.
Also check the floor pans from underneath. Especially around the tin plugs at the rear of the floor.
Look at the rear subframe (cradle) and the front suspension. A bit of surface rust is to be expected, but no rot or holes.
The less rust on the fasteners, the easier they will be to remove, to replace stuff. (Duh.)
Edit - If there is no rust, and no collision damage, everything else can be unbolted and replaced. Everything.
The space frame itself is essentially the same as a GT or Formula. The body panels can even be swapped around between all of them.
Have fun![This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 11-12-2020).]
|
|
|
|