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| 88 Formula - Lowering Springs? (Page 1/1) |
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Boozeman
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NOV 13, 04:41 PM
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I've got an 88 Formula that has the stock suspension with urethane bushings all around. I'd like to drop the front an inch or so, but maintain the stock ride. I really don't want to cut my '88 springs... What lowering springs would you recommend, and how big of a job is the install?
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fierosound
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NOV 13, 04:57 PM
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Boozeman
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NOV 13, 05:07 PM
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Thanks for the reply! Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you sacrifice more handling with lowering ball joints than with lowering springs? It was my understanding that the lowering ball joints change the geometry of the suspension, while the shorter springs don't...
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Patrick
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NOV 13, 05:48 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Boozeman:
I'd like to drop the front an inch or so, but maintain the stock ride. I really don't want to cut my '88 springs... What lowering springs would you recommend?
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That's basically impossible (with lowering springs). If it's lower, but no stiffer, it's going to bottom out continually.
For my Formula, I used a set of front springs from an '84 that I had cut two coils off of. It turned out perfect. Keep in mind that there were several different sets of front springs offered from '84-'87, and I used the longest stiffest '84 springs that were available.[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-13-2020).]
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Raydar
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NOV 13, 08:33 PM
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I get it that you don't want to hear this, but I'm going to say it anyway. Go ahead and cut your springs.
The problem with cutting springs is that people do it wrong, or just get carried away with it.
If done correctly, (use a cutoff wheel, and dress the edges of the wire with a file) the spring has no idea that it's been cut. It will increase the spring rate slightly, but it's not a big deal.
I would recommend cutting one coil. No more than 1.5 coils. You will have to cut the "tips" off of your rubber bump stops too. Again, not a big deal.
My coupe has had the stock front springs cut by one coil.
This car has 86 GT springs in the front, cut by 1.25 coils.
Both cars are 88s. Both have poly (most) everywhere. Both are very comfortable to drive.
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fieroguru
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NOV 14, 09:41 AM
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The geometry between a car lowered 1" with springs and lowered 1" with ball joints is very minor. Reason being is that the geometry is based on the location of the pivot points. The relationship to the pivot points on the chassis side is the same. The relationship to the outboard pivot points to the knuckle are the same. The knuckle is raised relative to the chassis by 1" in both scenarios, and the length of the upper a-arm remains the same between the two.
The only minor difference is that the lower ball joint pivot is raised vs. the lower control arm 1" with the lowering ball joints. This puts the lower a-arm at a slightly different angle and slightly changes the distance between the two pivot points on the lower a-arm by less then 1/16", which is very, very minor and I doubt anyone would be able to feel any handling difference between the two.
The best way to keep the stock ride is with lowering ball joints as the spring rate and available suspension travel between the lower a-arm and bump stop remains the same.
For those looking to firm up the ride slightly, then cutting 1 coil will give you a 10-15% increase in spring rate, but since the lower a-arm to bump stop is now closer, you loose suspension travel and ride quality will suffer due to hitting or riding on the bump stops all the time. The easy fix is to trim down the bump stop to increase available suspension travel back to as close as stock as possible (but w/o allowing the tire to hit the fender opening.
The only downside to the lowering ball joints is they limit the available brake upgrades that will fit the front w/o the nose of the lower a-arm hitting the backside of the rotor.
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Boozeman
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NOV 14, 01:12 PM
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Thank you very much for the replies - I really appreciate it! A few more questions...
If I did use the lowering ball joints, I would have to weld the Rodney Dickman units in, correct?
If I went with the above, what would be the best way to lower the rear? Is the only way to lower the rear to cut or replace the springs?
If I did go with lowering springs in all 4 corners, how big of a job is it to install them?
I really appreciate the help. I've had this car for about 2 years (I love this thing!) and this forum has been invaluable in maintaining and improving my car. Thanks to all that contribute here!
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fieroguru
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NOV 14, 02:03 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Boozeman:
Thank you very much for the replies - I really appreciate it! A few more questions...
If I did use the lowering ball joints, I would have to weld the Rodney Dickman units in, correct?
If I went with the above, what would be the best way to lower the rear? Is the only way to lower the rear to cut or replace the springs?
If I did go with lowering springs in all 4 corners, how big of a job is it to install them?
I really appreciate the help. I've had this car for about 2 years (I love this thing!) and this forum has been invaluable in maintaining and improving my car. Thanks to all that contribute here! |
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It would be best to weld in the lowering ball joints as they move the pivot higher and put more stress on the press fit during cornering.
There rear can also be lowered, by cutting springs, lowering springs or converting to adjustable coilovers. Many go the coilover route as they allow you to adjust the ride height and maximize clearance for wider tires.
How much work... depends entirely on your skills. Search for some youtube videos
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Boozeman
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NOV 14, 03:45 PM
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Dennis LaGrua
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NOV 14, 08:04 PM
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Lowering a Fiero looks great but if you go up over small inclined driveways or speed bumps you car will bottom out. My stock Fiero barely clears them but with a light scraping sound. I'd hate to go over these with a lowered Fiero. If you live in an area where every road is completely flat I'd say go for it. ------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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