Key eliminated wiring question (Page 1/1)
Coolkoolpyle NOV 24, 01:29 AM
While I'm waiting for a free bay to do my chassis mods for the supercharger I'm doing some interior work.

Someone did a very nice job with the leather but the controls are in sad shape.

I've elected to put all my controls on a panel between the seats. I have a custom console that would lend itself well to this plan.

My steering column has no key.
No wiper control
No cruse
It's a chrome aftermarket street rod type that has been modified to replace the original. With only turn signals and emergency flasher

It does tilt tho so that's nice

So
I have my wiper
Wiper delay
Windshield washer
Headlight/fog light etc

as hi tec push buttons with led back lights.

The high beam switch is old school on the floor.

Here's the question.

I have a latching push switch for the power on and a momentary push button for the starter.

Does anyone know which wires I would tie into on the original plug from the column that went to the factory key switch?

I do have a key cylinder but it's located in the floor beside the seat by the E brake..
It simply allows the fuel pump to come on when the fuse box is energized.

Already done when I got the car but done nicely and does offer a measure of security so I'm leaving it.

I'm terrible with electrical diagrams so specific wires to the switches and back again would be needed

I can do the separate wiring to the switch lights just fine. They will come on with the dash lights.

Of course I want the power switch to power up everything just like the key does in the run position and the start button to engage the starter only as long as it's held.

I'm just sure someone here knows exactly how to do what I'm planing.

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Donald Pyle

theogre NOV 24, 11:27 AM
So you bought someones else's nightmare project car and have no clue on car wiring?
Good luck....

There are many things routed thru most Ignition switch on OE columns and need to "rewire" every circuit that handles Many DC Amps...
Many switches etc are only rated for a few AC amps and used same on DC even a fraction of AC Amp rating will fry melt or have worse problems.

Example: Starter solenoid draws ~ 30 DC amp and will fry the switch above. You can't use common relays, not even automotive one, because most are Not rated to handle 40+ DC amps.

Most "push to start" and other buttons in current models are only Inputs to BCM that in-turn uses MOSFETs to run the starter solenoid and other things and/or relay to run smaller things. Is why most modern "Fuse Boxes" in the engine bay have many small relays.

Blower/fan motors, fuel pumps, PW, and more draws ~ 7 to 12 DC amps to run each, inrush amps 2 - 4 times more, and will fry w/ crap wiring. These can use Relays or MOSFET or both controlled by BCM or a switch.

Fiero and some others have PW switch directly control the motor is a Big Part of Why the PW are so slow because Long wires and switch wears quick causes low volts to motors.
Many other cars have control switch only turn on a relay that rated for the job that turns on the motor that has less wiring and other problems to prevent low volts to motors.

See my Cave, Electric Motors and maybe more in cave.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Coolkoolpyle NOV 24, 04:58 PM


I'm looking for useful information here

Not project criticism

This is a very nice Ferrari conversion and the wiring is quite well done.

There is a simple switch behind the key that controls the fuse panel and starter. It goes down the column to a ignition relay. It's the wiring from that relay to a new switch I'm talking about.

It can be done. Very easily if you know what all the wires that come out of the switch and goes into the ignition relay are.

I have done this same mod to many older muscle cars.

The switch behind the key is no more special than a simple toggle

In many cases it's cheaper construction

The ignition relay has no concerns as to what kind of switch is signaling it and the amperage will be no different from the amperage going thru the cheap switch behind the key.

I just need someone to identify the wires by color coming from the key switch going down the inside of the column trim to the ignition relay

It's the same group of wires you would use to hotwire the car.

Someone with some helpful info please chime in.
skywurz NOV 24, 07:44 PM
Well... There's no guarantee its even still a Fiero harness. But if it is all hooked up what i would suggest is getting a pushbutton conversion alarm system. That will give you the bits you need for the single push acc double push start. You can then wire that system into what you have. You will need electrical skills to pull it off like how to use a multimeter.

This should give you the colors https://www.the12volt.com/i...larmdetail/1857.html
Coolkoolpyle NOV 27, 09:18 PM


I'm looking for useful information here

Not project criticism

This is a very nice Ferrari conversion and the wiring is quite well done.

There is a simple switch behind the key that controls the fuse panel and starter. It goes down the column to a ignition relay. It's the wiring from that relay to a new switch I'm talking about.

It can be done. Very easily if you know what all the wires that come out of the switch and goes into the ignition relay are.

I have done this same mod to many older muscle cars.

The switch behind the key is no more special than a simple toggle

In many cases it's cheaper construction

The ignition relay has no concerns as to what kind of switch is signaling it and the amperage will be no different from the amperage going thru the cheap switch behind the key.

I just need someone to identify the wires by color coming from the key switch going down the inside of the column trim to the ignition relay

It's the same group of wires you would use to hotwire the car.

Someone with some helpful info please chime in.