Key release lever on an 87GT automatic steering column, can it be removed?? (Page 1/2)
Curtisk1060 MAR 16, 09:39 PM
My sons 87GT automatic tilt column has the key release lever which was supposedly only installed on manual transmission vehicles, is that true or were some installed that way from the factory? Can the key release lever be removed and still provide the safety function? I am going to have to replace an apparent failed ignition switch so that's why i am asking for input.. If the key release lever should only be for a manual transmission car, should I try to find a replacement automatic, tilt steering column instead. I have always hated the ley release lever, a PITA..
olejoedad MAR 16, 11:42 PM
The column has been replaced at some point I suspect.

Its a very easy job to change out the column.

I may have one hanging in storage.
Dennis LaGrua MAR 17, 06:43 AM
The ignition switch should be located down on the outside of the column. I do not believe any disassembly of the column is necessary for replacement. As for the key lock lever I have never seen one on an automatic. Lots of manual Fiero's have that feature and we seldom here complaints but if it bothers you that much just swap out the column.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Curtisk1060 MAR 17, 09:33 AM
Please let me know if you have a good condition tilt column for an automatic transmission 87GT with cruise control and for what price. Of course I would be able to use my horn assembly and steering wheel from my existing column. I will be tearing into it this weekend to see what the issues are. Currently when I tried to start the car , it would take several times and would basically short out the battery as the voltage would go to zero, then soon after that the key would now rotate far past its normal start position so I am sure something broke internally.

[This message has been edited by Curtisk1060 (edited 03-17-2021).]

theogre MAR 17, 01:30 PM
Key release "button" Isn't a AT but Stick Car "thing." That only prevents key locking the S-wheel when driving but barely does that.

The Q is Does is have Key interlock w/ the AT shifter? Does similar but can't lock S-wheel in anything but Park.
See my Cave, Auto Shifter

No then large problems because very easy to park w/o trans being in Park and the "button" doesn't make up for this.

I-switch is likely not bad but have other problems...
Lock and parts that run the switch are "bad" and won't push/pull I-switch right.
Column Tilt parts have problems causing I-switch problems.
I-switch is maladjusted.
Likely All above at same time since some fool replace the column.

See my Cave, Steering

If the I-switch is really bad, often can find new switch w/ interlock parts. So you have to remove the complete cable head.
Carefully remove 2 small screws on the switch and watch out when pins pops out when removing cable head.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Curtisk1060 MAR 18, 06:09 PM
Dennis, olejoedad, and Ogre: Thanks to all of you for your responses, I will be getting into the column tomorrow and let you know what I find, I have secured a new Ignition Key cylinder/lock from Autozone, and thanks to Ogre I know the part number for the tilt rack and sector gear if it needs to be replaced, that would need to be ordered out of Denver in 3 hours or so. I live in Colorado Springs. I have converted this 87GT to the 3800SC, with 4t65EHD transmission now and it has worked flawlessly for 3+ years, my question concerning the incorrect manual steering column is this, why does it even matter that I have the key release mechanism on the column since the existing AT cable controls the park/neutral starting permissive? Am I not understanding something? Doesn't the key interlock just keep the steering column from moving unless in park? All of the transmission positions are wired directly into the ECM so I thought the ECM was controlling the start permissive along with the physical AT cable. Is that not correct? I guess if I find the need to replace the actual ignition start switch I will need to replace the existing manual type (I have to assume is in there) vs. what would be the correct AT type, as I can only assume they are different, correct? Once I hopefully get this switch/and whatever corrected so it will start properly, I will still be searching for a correct AT tilt, steering column.. Curtis

[This message has been edited by Curtisk1060 (edited 03-18-2021).]

olejoedad MAR 18, 09:38 PM
The ignition switch (not the key tumbler) lives on top of the column under the dash.
The ignition switch is the same for auto or manual, BUT....
The auto setup has a cable from the shifter mechanism to the ignition switch that locks the shifter when it is PARK and the key is OFF. The key tumbler locks the steering wheel.

The manual trans shifter is never locked. Only the steering wheel is locked, and the lever is the safety device that must be tripped to remove the key.

The ECM ( with your 3800 swap it would be the PCM ) does not control the start signal, that is controlled by the NSS (Neutral Safety Switch) located below the shift lever on the transmission.
If your transmission is new enough, there may not be a NSS, and your start signal would be wired directly from the C500 to the starter solenoid.
olejoedad MAR 18, 09:39 PM
Double post....

I do have an assortment of columns here, but shipping might be costly.

I suspect you can source one near you.

[This message has been edited by olejoedad (edited 03-18-2021).]

Curtisk1060 MAR 19, 08:32 PM
Update on my travails...Today I installed a new ignition switch and also secured a new key switch, I now believe the problem exists within the switch actuator rack as the switch rod does not ,move properly. Had to go to several auto places to secure the correct pullers, parts, etc. Stopped after a long day and will get back to it tomorrow, I am going to research the best way to finish disassembly of the gear shift lever bowl and get to the rack and also see what's going on with the key release lever and spring. Something seems to be shorting out the 12vdc, or none of the DC is making up via the ignition switch. When I started and also as I have progressed. ( I occasionally powered it up today as I tried different things, and still no start) I did have the cable from the park going to the ignition switch as was mentioned and it appears to be adjusted correctly in park. Now I just need to figure out what is going on with the key release lever and the switch actuator rack. The key switch and sector shaft move freely but I don't feel the actuator rod moves as much..I did remember I have an 88 service manual so I at least know what i should be seeing..

[This message has been edited by Curtisk1060 (edited 03-19-2021).]

Curtisk1060 MAR 20, 12:41 PM
Found the problem, the pot metal switch actuator rack is broken in half, since I need to remove the lower housing to get at it, I am thinking of just removing the key interlock ( manual Transmission safety lever) especially since I know for sure the AT ignition switch interlock cable feature is in place. What do you guys think??