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| Battery Isolation With Easy Switch (Idea) (Page 1/2) |
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skywurz
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MAR 20, 01:36 PM
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So I have an electrical gremlin. Im fairly sure its my alarm at this point but im not 100%. I isolated my Amp as I was sure that was the issue. I could just have a bad batt as i have had issues from the start with this batt. I picked it up in Aug with the manufacturing date of April. While it should have been fine i got it home and had to charge it. Anyway im going to be taking it for warranty so lets skip that.
I don't drive all of my vehicles that often. So I was thinking well maybe i should just install a Batt switch or disconnect the terminals... That all seems like a pain for when i do actually want to go out. So I got to thinking after I saw some people with remote control batt disconnect switches that it would be nice just to have a physical switch. I also started looking at the different relays as I don't want one that's going to get hot if run for a few hours or kill the batt after being run for a few hours (with the car not running).
I found this TL-SSR – 12V / 100A DC UNIDIRECTIONAL SOLID STATE RELAY (SSR) Now honestly im really skeptical that this can do 100A. I dont think i really need 100A probably closer to 40A given how the power is distributed in the Fiero. However im not set on this unit.
Here is the original Battery Junction Diagram
Here is the modified diagram i have come up with to insert a relay of some sort.
I am switching ground as that's what the TL-SSR calls for. I have also added a relay so that as long as the car is in ACC or Run the Circuit stays (A CYA if you will). Basically i would put a switch somewhere discreet yet accessible (probably toggle and not momentary... Although momentary would help prevent the battery from being left on by accident. This comes with issues for emergency flashers and headlights... Trade offs) You flip the switch and go. I would probably run an independent hot wire to the Radio clock to save my presets. This is not shown in the diagrams.
Well there you have it. Was just interested on thoughts.
EDIT:
Iam aware for some reason this diagram is missing the ECU and i think a couple other wires going to the Distribution. I would probably keep the ECU hot for code storage and move everything that is NOT Batt and ALT to the cold side of the relay.[This message has been edited by skywurz (edited 03-20-2021).]
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theogre
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MAR 20, 03:29 PM
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dremu
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MAR 20, 03:31 PM
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You should prolly clarify that
| quote | Originally posted by skywurz:
I am switching ground as that's what the TL-SSR calls for. |
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means the *control wire* is ground == on, vs traditional relays where coil *positive* == on. At least I think that's what you mean.
I'm also suspicious of such a high current ability, but it's not so ridiculously expensive that you couldn't try it. But at least you're not cutting off everything, so the starter doesn't run through this, just the solenoid, which draws much less.
Also note you're approaching the creeping feature creature when you start thinking about extra features and wiring and such.
At least for diagnostic purposes, a big honking traditional battery switch might better serve you. A thought, anyway.
-- A[This message has been edited by dremu (edited 03-20-2021).]
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skywurz
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MAR 20, 05:14 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by theogre:
The starter draws 120A or more so "relay" above won't last long in that circuit.
GM Alt generate ~ 70 - 105 amps depending on Alt used. Aftermarket Alt's can make more.
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This is correct starter and alt draw a lot of amps, and why i explicitly do not run these items through the relay.
| quote | Originally posted by dremu:
You should prolly clarify that
means the *control wire* is ground == on, vs traditional relays where coil *positive* == on. At least I think that's what you mean.
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Yes that is exactly what i mean. The control wire needs to be pulled down to ground in the unit i specified to turn it on (close the relay) where most of the time you switch positive for a normal relay.
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skywurz
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MAR 20, 05:15 PM
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EDIT:
Oh and Thx for the Amazon links ogre i will check those out![This message has been edited by skywurz (edited 03-20-2021).]
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cvxjet
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MAR 20, 05:16 PM
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I moved my battery up front but did not want big welding cable running next to gas tank (boom) so I installed a Ford style separate starter solenoid that actuates when you turn to start....Then ran a smaller AWG 8 wire to run the car. I ran all of these under the car in schedule 40 tubing for protection, and ran the AWG 8 power wire with the main ground wire.
I installed a kill switch up front on the main ground to the battery. I also installed a 40 amp fuse on the AWG 8 line; The theory is that if I high-center the car and damge those wires, as soon as the power wire hits ground the fuse will pop.....so the car doesn't......."POP!"
Here is a diagram of what I did (And it even worked the first time (Well, I haven't tested the "pop theory" yet.....)
 [This message has been edited by cvxjet (edited 03-20-2021).]
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skywurz
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MAR 20, 05:26 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by cvxjet:
I moved my battery up front but did not want big welding cable running next to gas tank (boom) so I installed a Ford style separate starter solenoid that actuates when you turn to start....Then ran a smaller AWG 8 wire to run the car. I ran all of these under the car in schedule 40 tubing for protection, and ran the AWG 8 power wire with the main ground wire.
I installed a kill switch up front on the main ground to the battery. I also installed a 40 amp fuse on the AWG 8 line; The theory is that if I high-center the car and damge those wires, as soon as the power wire hits ground the fuse will pop.....so the car doesn't......."POP!"
Here is a diagram of what I did (And it even worked the first time (Well, I haven't tested the "pop theory" yet.....)
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Nice! So are you running dual solenoids? One by the batt and one on the starter?
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cvxjet
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MAR 20, 09:47 PM
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Yes.....I left the original but the front one is just so that big "Welding wire" next to the fuel tank (Boom!) is not energized except during starting. And If I need to cut power I can just turn the key on the kill switch (Since the battery is buried under the spare tire (Which holds the battery in place)
Funny story; I was actually bragging about the location of the gas tank (in the center console) and how safe it was (Almost un-hittable) So of course, I had my comeuppance; On the way up to Trinity lake in 1987 on highway 299 I hit a piece of firewood- took out the airdam and the lower radiator support, then dinged the gas tank and lodged against the Cat....I had to jack the car up to get it out from under the car. When I got home I replaced the airdam and crossmember (Combined price from dealer; $27)
Exactly one year later, heading up to Trinity again, I was hearing a rattle in the exhaust- stopped at a dealer in Redding and when I explained what I was hearing the service rep immediately asked "Has your cat been hit?" Got home and ordered a new Cat......A week later "We have it- want to drop the car off Tomorrow?" To which I replied "No- 3 day weekend- I'll drop it off Monday" So on the way home the next day (Friday) the Cat clogged!
It gets better- the dealer wanted to replace the (Dinged) gas tank......SO a month later they told me the tank was in......"I'll wait until after the 3 day weekend!" (You would think I woulda learned my less-on.....)(The fuel pump died because the bottom of the tank was against the intake)
Final note; The Radiator that was on that cross member which was ripped off the frame....Is still working fine- no leaks! (I should go out tomorrow and mop up the (Coming) puddle of coolant...(Never learn...)[This message has been edited by cvxjet (edited 03-20-2021).]
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skywurz
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MAR 20, 10:02 PM
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Oh just mop it up nothing. You have to be in the most inconvenience location. Then the plastic fill tank will let loose.
Im debating on moving the battery in the GT. The battery tray in the one i plan to keep is a bit rusty. I have also always said the Fiero could use at least an extra 50lbs over the front wheels.
I do like the second solenoid idea. Id probably run the cables the same path as the brake booster, through the cab. Just need to find one of those cars with the long cables at pick n pull. Probably also just DIY a box for the front.
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cvxjet
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MAR 20, 11:28 PM
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I have the Archie's mounting box....He still sells it for $65.......http://www.v8archie.us/battery-tray-kit.html
My Battery weighs approx' 35 lbs... so that was almost a 1.5% weight shift forward...My stripper 85 SE V6 (2600 lbs) went from 42/58 to 43.5/56.5 weight distribution (I also removed the trunk blower)
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