Door pillar trim removal/ headliner trim removal (Page 1/1)
Sledgehammer MAR 21, 03:14 PM
I have an 87 GT which I need to remove the interior door trim, etc. to replace the headliner. Before I try on my own to remove the trim pieces and possibly break something, I thought I’d ask for advice on the proper way to remove this trim. So, anyone know how to successfully remove the various pieces of plastic trim that surrounds the headliner and door?

I would really appreciate the help, I really don’t want to damage any of it while trying to remove it.

Thanks,

Sledgehammer
Mike in Sydney MAR 21, 06:19 PM
Chances are you will break the clips holding the trim to A-pillar trim so either order some from the Fiero Store before you start or go to Thingiverse.com and get the plans to 3-D print clips. I can't remember if there are 2 or three clips per side, but they aren't very expensive.

I'm working from memory from several years ago, but these are the steps I followed:
1) Take the seats out.
2) Take the seatbelt out. The bolt through the B-pillar trim is a large torx bolt. Again, I can't remember the size and I can't check now because I'm away. You might be able to use a large hex key, but you may bugger the head if you aren't careful.
3) Look along the bottom of the door trim. You'll notice a series of metal plugs (if they've not been lost). Pop these off with a small flat blade screwdriver and remove the screws. to release the cover.
4) Look in the door jamb on the B-Pillar, you should see a Phillips screw. This is long screw. Remove it and the conical washer. Check the B-pillar cover for other fasteners and remove.
5) Get a grip on the B-pillar cover and wiggle it out. IFM, it kinda snaps over the A-pillar trim at the back of the door. There were some metal clips on mine to keep the slot where the seat belt passes through closed. Take those off to get the belt out of the slot in the B-pillar cover. (BTW, don't forget to be careful of the fuel door release on the driver-side B-pillar.)
6) Get a grip on the A-pillar cover and work it out from the top down to the dash. Like I said, the chances are you are going to snap the 35 y.o. nylon clips off so buy / make new ones first.
7) Remove the overhead console.
8) Remove the sunroof glass & store it. (If you have one.)
9) Remove the sunroof opening trim. (If you have one.) Buy new trim to replace the old as the old trim is likely to have shrunk, got brittle, discolored, etc.
10) Remove the sun visors.
11) Remove the sunroof latch. ((If you have one.)
12) Carefully remove the headliner. The board is fiber and is likely to break. You can repair it with fiberglass or replace it with a PVC head liner board from The Fiero Store that already has the fabric on it. I used on of those one of my GTs. On the other I took the headliner board out and then glassed it over with a layer of cloth & resin. Then I applied a headliner material. The board from TFS was easiest - almost plug and play. The repaired board I did was more satisfying because I did it myself. The cost was about the same.

To reinstall, repeat the steps in the reverse order.
Sledgehammer MAR 21, 10:23 PM
Thank you Mike from Sydney
css9450 MAR 22, 09:54 AM
+2 on the trim clips above the door.... I broke a couple or a few of them and need to order new ones since right now my trim is loose above the door.

If I remember right, T-47 is the size for the large Torx bolt that holds the seatbelt. Seems such a strange number so maybe it's really T-45 and I mis-read it.... It isn't SUPER tight but it is tight enough you'll probably mess it up if you use the wrong size socket.

I didn't remove either seat. I find it's easier to leave the seats in place since they act like a third hand, to help hold the headliner board up.

I wound up doing this job twice. My original headliner board was in really bad shape, so I made several repairs to it using fiberglass mesh and resin but in my naivete I assumed the new foam-backed fabric would hide any imperfections. I was wrong. So I searched for a year and eventually found another non-sunroof headliner board in the junkyard and re-covered it also, this time being extra careful to make sure the surface was as smooth as I could get it. The extra effort was worthwhile and even now 5-6 years later it looks good as new.
Mike in Sydney MAR 22, 05:39 PM

quote
Originally posted by css9450:

+2 on the trim clips above the door.... I broke a couple or a few of them and need to order new ones since right now my trim is loose above the door.

If I remember right, T-47 is the size for the large Torx bolt that holds the seatbelt. Seems such a strange number so maybe it's really T-45 and I mis-read it.... It isn't SUPER tight but it is tight enough you'll probably mess it up if you use the wrong size socket.

I didn't remove either seat. I find it's easier to leave the seats in place since they act like a third hand, to help hold the headliner board up.



There are two nylon clips in the A-pillar. I forgot about the two clips above the door. They are metal and not likely to break. The FSM says to "pull outward and down at rear of the garnish molding to disengage from the clips."

Also, that's a neat idea about leaving the seats in to hold up the new headliner. I had a spare set of hands helping me. The original liner board is likely to be real brittle so unless you're replacing it with one of the thermoplastic boards from TFS, be really careful. If you are using the original board clean the front side really well. css9450 is right. The 3mm foam backing on headliner material doesn't hide much.

[This message has been edited by Mike in Sydney (edited 03-22-2021).]

Sledgehammer MAR 24, 09:33 PM
Thank all you guys for the info. I can’t be anything but successful with replacing my headliner.

Sledgehammer