PFF - Pennock's Fiero Forum, PDA Edition

1984 2M4 Won't go into gear while running (Page 1/2)

Fienix

APR 05, 02:34 PM

I bought my manual 84 about a month ago and trailered it home. The guy I bought it from told me I just needed to bleed the clutch. Admittedly I have never worked on cars before, but that seemed simple enough so I thought I'd be on the road within a few days. I decided if I was gonna bleed the clutch anyway I might as well install a replacement slave cylinder from Rodney Dickman, so I did and have bled the clutch a couple times now. Jacked up the driver side of the car while doing so as I read this will help get all the air out. I also noticed that the clutch was replaced in 2013 by a previous owner so I would hope there are no issues with the clutch itself.

The shifter moves around fine when the car is off, but when the engine is running, it will not go up into the 1st gear position, and makes an awful grinding noise when I try to put it in reverse (I have a video of this if it's helpful at all).

After doing some searching around on here, I also took note of my clutch pedal being non-magnetic and sitting slightly below the brake pedal, not above it. So maybe the pedal is bent and I need to replace it? Or perhaps it's an issue with the cables?

Any help or advice is appreciated!

EDIT: The problem has been solved. A torsion spring popped out of the clutch disc and was preventing shifting.

[This message has been edited by Fienix (edited 07-09-2021).]

Patrick

APR 05, 02:45 PM

This is an issue discussed about one million times here over the last 22 years. Seriously (almost). The archives are overflowing with info on This topic.

If you aren't getting about 1-1/8" travel at the slave, then the clutch isn't disengaging enough. Sounds like something is bent alright, as yes, the clutch pedal should be sitting above the brake pedal. Besides the pedal itself, make sure the banjo isn't bent, and that the loop is in the "up" position.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-05-2021).]

fierosound

APR 05, 05:50 PM

quote

Originally posted by Fienix:

I decided if I was gonna bleed the clutch anyway I might as well install a replacement slave cylinder from Rodney Dickman,
so I did and have bled the clutch a couple times now. Jacked up the driver side of the car while doing so as I read this will help get all the air out.
I also noticed that the clutch was replaced in 2013 by a previous owner so I would hope there are no issues with the clutch itself.

All good so far.

As Patrick said check clutch pedal and banjo. See here:
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/...060206-2-062105.html

If there's a problem with the Master Cylinder a new one from Rodney with the adjustable banjo will be the fix.

.------------------
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3.4L Supercharged 87 GT and Super Duty 4 Indy #163

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 04-05-2021).]

skywurz

APR 05, 06:14 PM

Oh and don't forget some of the clutch arms are prone to bending too.

Fienix

APR 20, 08:28 PM

UPDATE: Installed a new clutch pedal from the Fiero Store (and wow what a PITA that was!). The U-shaped bracket on the old pedal was definitely bent, the clutch pedal now sits nicely above the brake pedal as it should. However, this unfortunately did not solve the problem. The shifter still won't move into 1st when the engine is running. Can anyone give me some guidance on what my next step should be?

Wondering if I should try vacuum bleeding the clutch (maybe there's still some air?), replace master cylinder (though it seems to be functioning okay) or worst case scenario have it towed somewhere and let a pro sort it out. If it's an issue like what is described in this thread, it's not something I'll be able to fix myself anyway.

skywurz

APR 20, 09:29 PM

Do you have a cast clutch arm on the trans? Or is it stamped?

"An original un-modded stamped Isuzu arm next to a cast Isuzu and cast Muncie"

Credit CowsPatoot
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/...160323-2-127436.html

Patrick

APR 20, 10:56 PM

quote

Originally posted by Fienix:

If it's an issue like what is described in this thread, it's not something I'll be able to fix myself anyway.

That's a worse case scenario, and seldom the reason for the problem you're experiencing.

You haven't mentioned how much travel you have at the slave since replacing the clutch pedal.

Fienix

APR 21, 07:02 PM

@skywurz It looks like the one on the left in the photo, so stamped right?

This might sound stupid, but I'm not sure how to measure how much slave travel I have. I assume a precise measurement is needed, not an eyeball/ballpark. I did notice just now that there is a bit of slop in the pedal before the slave begins to move if that's relevant.

longjonsilver

APR 22, 12:38 PM

If you have noticed slop in the clutch, then fix that first. Buy Rodneys adjustable banjo or make your own. Also get Rodneys slave cylinder piston with the double seals. Since doing the above, i have not had any problems....

------------------
Astronomy says we will find a coded signal from outer space. Then we'll KNOW that life exists there, for coded signals aren't by chance.

Biology says there are coded genetic signals in every cell, but we KNOW that no intelligence created life.

I'm the original owner of a white ' 84 2M4 purchased Dec 10, 1983 from Pontiac. Always garaged, no rust, 4-wheel drifts are fun!

longjonsilver

APR 22, 12:43 PM

quote

Originally posted by Fienix:
This might sound stupid, but I'm not sure how to measure how much slave travel I have.

Tape a rule in place at the slave. Use a hockey stick or something to depress the clutch pedal while you watch movement of the slave, standing at the side of the car. i replaced the clutch arm on mine and it did nothing to fix the problem but the adjustable banjo and the double seal slave piston from Rodney did.

jon