Need Plan of Attack To Remove Complete Front Suspension from a Junkyard Fiero (Page 1/3)
reinhart APR 27, 07:35 PM
I found a few threads where members said they removed the front crossmember and everything attached in one piece out of a junkyard Fiero but didn't provide much detail on how.

I'm pretty clear on removing the bolts fromt crossmember to frame, and the steering shaft bolt, and brake lines from calipers to frame although I can't find anything about that in the factory service manual.

Remember this is a junkyard so tools are harder to bring in, all manual tools, etc. What tools would I need besides the correct socket size for the bolts and a screw driver to pry to coupling bolt for the steering column? If one of the bolts spins in the frame, how would I tackle that given that I'm unable to cut into the frame to access the nut or do anything like that? The coolant pipes are under the support rims at the yard so I won't be able to move them out of the way, would the weight of lowering the crossmember just bend them out of the way or do I need to try to use a cutoff wheel or a pry bar to bend them out of the way?

How did you lower the crossmember down to the ground? Did you borrow a cherry picker and lower it on a flat cart? Did you then transport it to the truck with the cherry picker or the cart?

I'm thinking I'd have to rent a U-Haul truck or Home Depot truck for the day..

Also how much does the entire Fiero crossmember with rack, control arms, brakes, (everything but the wheels) weigh?

Also how did the pricing go for the entire assembly? Will they likely charge for each separate item: crossmember, rack, sway bar, hub, control arms, brake calipers, brake rotors? Or put it down for something like front end assembly?

[This message has been edited by reinhart (edited 04-27-2021).]

Spoon APR 27, 09:36 PM
The bare cross member I can pick up and easily carry with one hand. If I had to haul out an entire cross member I'd take little Johnny's wagon along.

Spoon

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"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

cvxjet APR 27, 11:23 PM
I did this a few years ago so I could shorten the bump-stops and then rebuild everything and swap it in on my Fiero in 1 day. There are 10 bolts holding the upper brackets on both sides, then there are 4 bolts holding the crossmember to the frame directly, then 4 bolts that hold the diagonal front braces, and the two bolts that hold the lower arms to the chassis.

I had a friend come and help me- we removed all the bolts except the 4 that hold the frame to the chassis, then loosened them, and finally, while supporting the frame, removed those four bolts and lowered it to the ground.

Make sure that the car is solidly supported....The sound of someone being squished under a falling car is very disconcerting.....

(By the way.....The LAST bolt I removed when swapping the rebuilt subframe into my Fiero SNAPPED off and I spent TWO WEEKS drilling it out and fishing a plate & carriage bolt into the frame)(Arrgggggggggggggggggggggg)
skywurz APR 27, 11:28 PM
What year? I have drooped both, 88 is slightly different. I have dropped them brake lines calipers and tires still attached. You just pull out the spare tire area, (careful of the brake lines) undo the radiator support, Sway bar mounts, steering rod, then either undo the brake lines from the distribution valve or undo the distribution valve from the booster/mc mount, remove the support bolts holding the brake lines (unless you don't want the lines then id just cut the rubber hoses) If its an 88 you have to pull the coolant tubes. Then undo the cross member bolts. Pre 88 there are 3 on each spring tower and i think 4 on the under side. 88 im only remembering 8 on the bottom? None on the sides something like that. Once you get the spare tire area pulled it is easier to see whats up.

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[This message has been edited by skywurz (edited 04-27-2021).]

Notorio APR 28, 12:16 AM

quote
Originally posted by cvxjet:

(By the way.....The LAST bolt I removed when swapping the rebuilt subframe into my Fiero SNAPPED off and I spent TWO WEEKS drilling it out and fishing a plate & carriage bolt into the frame)(Arrgggggggggggggggggggggg)



Another great example of the Innate Perversity of Inanimate Objects
reinhart APR 28, 04:42 PM

quote
Originally posted by cvxjet:

I did this a few years ago so I could shorten the bump-stops and then rebuild everything and swap it in on my Fiero in 1 day. There are 10 bolts holding the upper brackets on both sides, then there are 4 bolts holding the crossmember to the frame directly, then 4 bolts that hold the diagonal front braces, and the two bolts that hold the lower arms to the chassis.

I had a friend come and help me- we removed all the bolts except the 4 that hold the frame to the chassis, then loosened them, and finally, while supporting the frame, removed those four bolts and lowered it to the ground.

Make sure that the car is solidly supported....The sound of someone being squished under a falling car is very disconcerting.....

(By the way.....The LAST bolt I removed when swapping the rebuilt subframe into my Fiero SNAPPED off and I spent TWO WEEKS drilling it out and fishing a plate & carriage bolt into the frame)(Arrgggggggggggggggggggggg)



How did you lower it? What did you roll it out on? How did you get it in your truck?
cvxjet APR 28, 06:02 PM
We just used our arms to lower it- not very heavy. As far as carrying it to the truck (Van).....We carried tools, etc back and then together lifted and carried the whole crossmember...Before we carried it I seem to remember removing the springs; My buddy STANDING on the crossmember, and then I un-did the ball-joint and then he eased off the crossmember which released the spring...I did use a chain but by the time the A-Arm is fully swung down there is really no tension left on the spring.

I just weighed some spares I have (This is for a pre-88) Bare cross-member 20-25 lbs, A-Arm SET is 15 lbs each side, each brake caliper (Loaded) approx' 10 lbs, and the springs are between 5-8 lbs each. So a complete crossmember weighs between 75 and 95 lbs (I was using a bathroom scale that is not real accurate especially with light weights like these)

I definitely would remove the brake disc/hub.....They are definitely heavy (I don't have them to weigh)
reinhart APR 29, 06:09 PM

quote
Originally posted by cvxjet:

We just used our arms to lower it- not very heavy. As far as carrying it to the truck (Van).....We carried tools, etc back and then together lifted and carried the whole crossmember...Before we carried it I seem to remember removing the springs; My buddy STANDING on the crossmember, and then I un-did the ball-joint and then he eased off the crossmember which released the spring...I did use a chain but by the time the A-Arm is fully swung down there is really no tension left on the spring.

I just weighed some spares I have (This is for a pre-88) Bare cross-member 20-25 lbs, A-Arm SET is 15 lbs each side, each brake caliper (Loaded) approx' 10 lbs, and the springs are between 5-8 lbs each. So a complete crossmember weighs between 75 and 95 lbs (I was using a bathroom scale that is not real accurate especially with light weights like these)

I definitely would remove the brake disc/hub.....They are definitely heavy (I don't have them to weigh)



Thanks that help a lot. It would also have the steering rack which would add another 20? pound so? for a total of 120ish?

Turns out this yard has no flat carts (I asked yesterday). I highly doubt the shopping carts they have would support this. I don't have anyone to assist otherwise 120 pounds would be manageable. My only option would be to rent a cherry picker which I could use to lower the crossmember and then roll it out or I could maybe use some straps to lower it. The only hiccup I see with the cherry picker is the larger walk way is on the engine side. I do not think the cherry picker would make it between cars to get to the front side anyway. Or it at least woudn't with the crossmember hung on it. I would have to drop the crossmember and get it over to the engine side aisle and then could load it on the cherry picker to wheel it the third of a mile to the front entrance area.
cvxjet APR 29, 09:42 PM
A) Remove brake calipers, B) Remove suspension (A-arms/Spindle/spring) from each side, C) remove Rack & Pinion, D) Support crossmember with jack stands or wood supports, E) Remove last 4 bolts, then allow crossmember to drop to ground, F) Carry each separate part to truck.

Oh, yes, G) Don't drop any of these on your foot (Unless wearing steel-toed shoes)
ericjon262 APR 30, 05:31 AM
I don't think you ever mentioned what year you're working on, so I'll assume 84-87.

the whole suspension can be removed whole pretty easily,

Remove rear LCA bolts
Disconnect/remove the swaybar(1 bolt per endlink, 4 bolts holding the bar to the frame)
unbolt the front braces(2 bolts each)
cut the brake hoses unless you want to save them
unbolt the rear brake line from the crossmember (1 bolt, about center on the crossmember)
disconnect the steering shaft from the rack (1 bolt, you'll want a pickle fork or other method to pry it off)
remove the 2 vertical bolts on each side holding the crossmember to the frame rail
remover the 2 vertical bolts near each UCA mount that hold the crossmember to the brackets.

unless I'm forgetting something, the crossmember should fall out as you remove those last four.

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