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| Am I missing some connections at the Junction Block? (Page 1/1) |
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Jasperr
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MAY 16, 09:40 AM
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I'm moving across the country in a week and half! The car is coming in tow finished or not but I really want it running before I take off.
Have a 3800 NA swap into an 85 and I'm not getting any power from it. I'm using Dan's harness.
Comparing my junction block vs other's I'm wondering if I'm missing something here. I've got the line from the battery, the line coming out of the harness, and there are two eyelets that come from the passenger wall near the junction block.
These two wires I didn't do anything to, this is how they were pre-swap.
The red one is the only one with a fusable link and looks as if a second wire was cut from it. Which if it was, wasn't my doing.
This second black one does not have a fusable link.
Is the black one perhaps a ground? It looks as if it might not be stock and has a green piece of tape rapped around it. I'm going to get a test light today and start prodding around.
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theogre
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MAY 16, 06:43 PM
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Top pic is likely end for Fusible Links A and B. See my Cave, Fuse Links notes
"Missing" red or red/wht wire has to be there but likely doesn't have a fuse link now or have short link is bad too. Need to find and fix it.
Black wire can't tell what it is...
Many aftermarket battery cables including ACDelco parts only use black wires w/ or w/o a fusible link in small wire.
You must find the other end of that wire before you ground it. Why? Shorted battery and no fuse or link can dump 300+ amps... ------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
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Jasperr
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MAY 17, 12:26 AM
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So my understanding is Link B would be the one missing, which is headlights? However the headlights were completely functional before the swap.
I'll dig around all those wires in that area and see what I can find tomorrow.
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Jasperr
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MAY 19, 06:46 PM
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Mystery solved. For one, my double eyelet piece was not making very good contact with both posts. Secondly, the black wire is in-fact the other fusible link that someone must've burned out years ago, cut back and replaced with an ordinary wire and no fuse.
Gonna get a new one in there asap
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theogre
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MAY 20, 11:11 AM
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Links can die just from age but check HL circuits for problems. even get small DC Amp Clamp. Ones can read under 1A is best for many. Big ones only read 0.1a isn't very good unless you're working w/ the starter that draws 120A or more.
Quick Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PP15B87 reads 1mA-100A
Many link "kits" come w/ plane insulated ends attach. Sometimes can be remove w/o cutting the wire so can use "water proof" crimps. If not coat w/ silicon or brake grease to keep water out.
Example: Dorman 85621 https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-13852-85621.aspx
Loop/Ring end isn't removable. Maybe the ring is too big for this job. Might be find on bigger stud. Seems too big but hard to tell.
Other end maybe removed by crushing "sideways" to the crimp.
If used, just stuff blue end and coat the other w/ brake grease.
Some links kits have ends but not attached like littelfuse
FLW14BP Fusible Link 14 AWG with Terminals
FLW16BP Fusible Link 16 AWG with Terminals
or just get link wire 16 Gaug/1.0mm2 and cut 9-10 inch
Fuse link insulation is "soft rubber" and easier for any water at joints to wick inside and rot fast.
Even w/ "water proof" ends, I coat loop/ring end w/ brake grease to seal the wire end you get exposed.
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