'87 blue GT 3400 Revival Thread (Page 1/2)
samxerxesn MAY 19, 05:22 PM
Hello everyone... I finally got a Fiero!... And boy is it a doosy!

I picked up two Fieros, one 88 GT parts car and the aforementioned 87 GT with a 3.4L V6 swap, from a very friendly man in San Diego. He's offered to help me with information, but I'm completely new to Fieros so I'm going to need all the help I can get.

I've uploaded a video of the cars where I talk about what I know needs work, what I don't know, and what I have questions on. I may upload a separate video on the 88 GT where I ask if it is salvageable.
87 walkthrough: https://youtu.be/1-NnmYDp33g

I've read some material on the 3400 engines and it seems that they need precise maintenance or they will easily fall apart. I've read about them needing fluid swaps and belt swaps exactly on time or they will quickly fail. I also read that they have an oiling issue. In cars like the Supra, which also had oiling issues in the straight six where oil stays in the top end, this was solved by drilling out and inserting larger oil journal passages. Is this possible on the 3.4L?

If there is a page that does an in depth dive into swapping the 3.4L oldsmobile engine I'd really appreciate a link to it. I am going to dive into this car as if I'm doing the swap over again to make sure everything is in place before first start.

if you don't want to watch the video, or if I'm just too cringy to watch, here's a summary on the car.

The vehicle was partially taken apart before I bought it. There's a number of hoses and electronic wires that seemingly go nowhere, mostly near the intake side of the engine. The trunk was full of parts, some of which seem to be for the old engine, others seem to be for the swap, and some seem to be old extra pieces. I have a brand new air pump for smog, and a new piece called the "ignition management system" which seems to be a block of electronics with connectors on it. I have a pair of joined hardline tubes which look like they went along the firewall at some point. I have a large vacuum operated plunger attached to a metal canister that looks like it was used for the original engine, but I'm not sure what for, or if it is still necessary. I have a plastic canister with a bottom made out of foam insulation and a hose labeled "to fuel tank" which looks like it was part of an evap system, maybe as the charcoal canister. I also have pieces to an aftermarket intake as well as the original airbox. Included was a later year intake plenum which won't pass smog but does increase power (supposedly) and its accompanying fuel rail. Of note is that I don't know how many electronics work. The battery was relocated to the frunk. The left-right shift cable is seized, the hand brake cables are gone, and I don't know here the throttle cables are (the pedal is on the floor so it is also probably gone).

So yeah, lots of work ahead! I'm going to start with dropping the engine cradle and fuel tank so I can see the scope of everything and redo as much wiring and insulation as I can, maybe even add some thermal and sound insulation to the firewall while I'm at it. I'm essentially going to go through everything as if it were a new swap. I'm hoping this will give me the best chance of avoiding gremlins in the final product. thanks for the help! I look forward to getting to know everyone. I've wanted a Fiero for 10 years, and now here it is. I just need to make it happen!

samxerxesn MAY 19, 06:11 PM
I should clarify that this is the 3.4L TDC engine, not the pushrod engine. I also found a swap page that still has its pictures!

http://gmtuners.com/Customer/3.4DOHCFiero/swap.htm
Dennis LaGrua MAY 19, 10:29 PM
It appears that you have quite a bit of work ahead. A good first step is to find out if the engine turns over and is sound internally . This can be done with a compression or cylinder leakage test. Once the engine is confirmed to have good compression you can re-attach all of the electrical , fuel and water lines to see if it will start. It could be that the prior owner fried the transmission and this could explain why he was starting to take things apart. The 3.4DOHC engines can be temperamental as you have already noted the fine points about the timing belt and tensioner. In the final analysis that engine is far better than the stock 2.8L and will provide some high RPM 215 HP excitement and a Euro sports car type sound. .

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Notorio MAY 19, 11:40 PM
Was the DOHC swap registered and approved in California? I believe the car would have a sticker inside the deck lid or maybe the door jam certifying the car as smog legal and telling smog test shops how to test it. Someone who knows will chime in here ...

And congratulations on getting those two Fieros and enjoy the ride!
fishsticks MAY 20, 12:00 AM
Looks like the deck lid torsion bars were removed to clear the engine swap.

Rodney Dickman makes a deck lid strut kit that should clear your swap.

Plunger/can is the old cruise control vacuum module.


Wooo boy you got a project getting that back together in a way that CA likes it.
samxerxesn MAY 20, 04:52 PM

quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:

It appears that you have quite a bit of work ahead. A good first step is to find out if the engine turns over and is sound internally . This can be done with a compression or cylinder leakage test. Once the engine is confirmed to have good compression you can re-attach all of the electrical , fuel and water lines to see if it will start. It could be that the prior owner fried the transmission and this could explain why he was starting to take things apart. The 3.4DOHC engines can be temperamental as you have already noted the fine points about the timing belt and tensioner. In the final analysis that engine is far better than the stock 2.8L and will provide some high RPM 215 HP excitement and a Euro sports car type sound. .




Thanks for the tip. Why do you think the transmission was fried? does the 5 speed tend to die?
samxerxesn MAY 20, 04:54 PM

quote
Originally posted by Notorio:

Was the DOHC swap registered and approved in California? I believe the car would have a sticker inside the deck lid or maybe the door jam certifying the car as smog legal and telling smog test shops how to test it. Someone who knows will chime in here ...

And congratulations on getting those two Fieros and enjoy the ride!



Yup, it was completely approved by CA Bar, which is kinda odd because the exhaust loops around to the back of the car instead of the front. The previous owner told me that I need to install the air pump in the car to be able to pass smog, and I'm not sure how to go about this step.
samxerxesn MAY 20, 04:57 PM

quote
Originally posted by fishsticks:

Looks like the deck lid torsion bars were removed to clear the engine swap.

Rodney Dickman makes a deck lid strut kit that should clear your swap.

Plunger/can is the old cruise control vacuum module.


Wooo boy you got a project getting that back together in a way that CA likes it.



Thanks for the tip! I'll get in contact with Rodney and order one. It should make working on the engine easier.

I checked images of other swaps and noticed that the old can cruise control isn't used, and the throttle cable from the old cruise control isn't compatible either. The swap seems to use a more electronic version of the cruise control. Any idea if this will match up with the stock Fiero cruise handle?
samxerxesn MAY 21, 03:17 AM
I got a chance to look around under the car today. as I suspected some of the wiring has seen better days. There's a few hoses that I just don't know where they go and two hard cooling lines at the bottom left of the engine bay that are plugged up. The cooling lines under the car actually seem to be in good shape, though the passenger side is slightly dented right around where the drain is.



As I said the battery was relocated to the frunk, which I think was the right choice, but what may not have been the right choice was bringing the power straight to the starter. I'm sure this is electrically fine, but man does it make me nervous to look at. Changing the starter just got even more annoying haha.



Something of concern is the amount of oil at the bottom of the transmission bell housing and the right side of the oil pan. I suspect either a transmission leak or the rear main seal. Since I planned to drop the cradle anyways it shouldn't matter, but man that's bothersome. Also the left-right shift cable came back to life. I removed it from the linkage to check if the transmission itself was shifting okay, and it feels good even with the clutch out, but when I went to see how stuck the left-right cable was by pulling the other end in and out it actually started to move okay, and when I reattached it I was able to shift the car. Still, I'm not banking on that and it will get replaced.



Remember how the e-brake cables were in the trunk? well, it turns out that may be because the e-brake mechanism just isn't there on the rear calipers. I can't tell if this was because of the swap or just because they were removed and never put back on. Can someone tell me if these are the original brakes?




One last fun thing is the exhaust. That thing is compact! I thought it was just going to run reverse of the original exhaust, but no it stays at the back of the car!
samxerxesn MAY 30, 12:33 AM
I've been digging through the car and reading the GM service manual and now I've got a list of questions for everyone.

1. How is the parking break cable actually adjusted? the manual shows how to start, but not what the actual adjustment should be.
2. Is it possible to replace the red button at the end of the parking brake handle? mine is just a metal clip at this point.
3. how is the throttle cable routed through the car? this isn't shown in the GM manual.
4. How can I tell if the AC compressor is for R134?
5. What size is the nut that secures the e-brake lever to the caliper? the whole system is completely gone in the car; only the handle remains.
6. Where should I fill the transmission fluid from?

I'm sure I'll be coming back with more, but this is all for now. Thanks for the help.