Notchie LED Tail lights. (Page 1/1)
str8maxn MAY 20, 10:03 PM
Hello all

I am in the process of wiring some LED tail lights into my Notchie but I am running into a bit of a problem.

The LED light I plan on using is an all in one. Lights ON > Brake On > Turn Signal. The wiring looks like this :




O Lights on will have a Halo ring light up
O Brake will light the Halo ring much brighter
>>>>>> Turn signal will sequence inward out ( Like a Mustang)


Here is my problem; The brake and Turn signals are on the same circuit in the Fiero. So when I brake both signals will sequence once and stay on for the duration of the braking in addition to the brighter Halo.
When using the turn signal Left or Right, both the Bright Halo and Turn signals light up.


How can get a separate the Stop and Turn signal circuit?

I

[This message has been edited by str8maxn (edited 05-20-2021).]

skywurz MAY 21, 01:32 PM
In the notch back the stop and turn will be the same. The stop power is routed through the turn signal switching at the column. If you had a GT there is a separate circuit run back there for stop only. However turn would still be turn and stop. When you switch the turn signal it moves the current from NC for the Stop/Turn signal from the brake to the turn signal circuit. The Hazards are a different config.
str8maxn MAY 21, 01:38 PM

quote
Originally posted by skywurz:

In the notch back the stop and turn will be the same. The stop power is routed through the turn signal switching at the column. If you had a GT there is a separate circuit run back there for stop only. However turn would still be turn and stop. When you switch the turn signal it moves the current from NC for the Stop/Turn signal from the brake to the turn signal circuit. The Hazards are a different config.




This really sucks..... I did something similar in the Fast Back I had and figured I could duplicate it in the Notchie.


Thank you for the reply.
Trinten MAY 21, 04:38 PM
It looks like you could still do this, but you'll wind up having to run some new wiring to create a new circuit. I think it would be a cool project, especially if you do some detailed documentation on it. Other notchies folks would be more inclined to dive in that way!

str8maxn MAY 21, 07:10 PM

quote
Originally posted by Trinten:

It looks like you could still do this, but you'll wind up having to run some new wiring to create a new circuit. I think it would be a cool project, especially if you do some detailed documentation on it. Other notchies folks would be more inclined to dive in that way!



Would you happen to know where the turn signals link up to the brakes. I am assuming I could cut them there and run new wiring to the Left and Right Turn signal.
theogre MAY 22, 12:19 PM
Ignore above posts.
Always post Year of car.

86-88 have "GT" yellow turn lights wires all the way to C500.
Only need to cut a white jumper to "reprogram" this and wire brake light to C500.
Cut jumper at middle so can restore if needed or to wire new brake lights to ½ of same.
Should be easy to find ever w/o pulling C500 retaining bolt on front side plug.

only 84 and 85 needs brake light wire all the way to the dash. Cutting white wire to the column from Brake light switch.
But 84 has more issues because uses all bulbs for stop/turn and relays too. Need to pull 2 relay plugs and protect them from water etc.

In all cases... You wire new turn lights to the same stop/turn wire in the back. Just splice this. Do cut out old sockets...
LED have many problems even when you use DOT Legal set made for other applications. Sit at a traffic light sometime and watch newer trucks w/ part or total dead LED taillights. Trucks/Buses cost $50,000 $100,000 or more yet LED taillight are dying < 5 years often < 2 years.
Most for the aftermarket are illegal or maybe legal but just crap and die fast.

If taillight are dim...
Check wiring and ground hidden by body in 84-87 Fiero. You likely need to do this just to make new light work.
Clean and repaint the the shells and use 2357 bulbs.
changing OE 2057 or 1157 to 2357 is a Big Difference for any Red taillights. (Don't use this in Yellow turn. Bright here can "blind" anyone behind at night.)

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 05-22-2021).]

str8maxn MAY 25, 12:45 PM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Ignore above posts.
Always post Year of car.

86-88 have "GT" yellow turn lights wires all the way to C500.
Only need to cut a white jumper to "reprogram" this and wire brake light to C500.
Cut jumper at middle so can restore if needed or to wire new brake lights to ½ of same.
Should be easy to find ever w/o pulling C500 retaining bolt on front side plug.

only 84 and 85 needs brake light wire all the way to the dash. Cutting white wire to the column from Brake light switch.
But 84 has more issues because uses all bulbs for stop/turn and relays too. Need to pull 2 relay plugs and protect them from water etc.

In all cases... You wire new turn lights to the same stop/turn wire in the back. Just splice this. Do cut out old sockets...
LED have many problems even when you use DOT Legal set made for other applications. Sit at a traffic light sometime and watch newer trucks w/ part or total dead LED taillights. Trucks/Buses cost $50,000 $100,000 or more yet LED taillight are dying < 5 years often < 2 years.
Most for the aftermarket are illegal or maybe legal but just crap and die fast.

If taillight are dim...
Check wiring and ground hidden by body in 84-87 Fiero. You likely need to do this just to make new light work.
Clean and repaint the the shells and use 2357 bulbs.
changing OE 2057 or 1157 to 2357 is a Big Difference for any Red taillights. (Don't use this in Yellow turn. Bright here can "blind" anyone behind at night.)




I decided against modifying the turn signals to work on a separate circuit. I also avoided cutting into the existing wiring. I used pre wired 1156 and 1157 bulb inserts. I am happy with the out come.
I could could also but everything back to stock.


theogre... Thank you again for all the great feed back.
2.5 MAY 26, 02:45 PM

quote
Originally posted by str8maxn:

.. I also avoided cutting into the existing wiring. I used pre wired 1156 and 1157 bulb inserts. I am happy with the out come.
I could also put everything back to stock.





I did this as well when I modifed my tails. It does simplify things. If I had seenthis thread earlier I was going to recommend it.
theogre MAY 26, 06:54 PM

quote
Originally posted by str8maxn:
I decided against modifying the turn signals to work on a separate circuit. I also avoided cutting into the existing wiring. I used pre wired 1156 and 1157 bulb inserts. I am happy with the out come.
I could could also but everything back to stock.

LED "inserts"?
Most are crap made.

Keep old lights when the LED's fail.
Or Replace w/ 2357. Changing 2057 or 1157 to 2357 technically illegal but no-one in the US and other Countries is going to notice because most vehicles Have 2357 as OE bulbs.
Isn't a lot brighter but brake/turn lights up faster then old bulbs.

Many like Sylvania have "off road" warning on the package but sold next to normal bulbs at AZ, K and W marts and more.
Others "off brand" or no name units have same warning, often hidden and fine print like "Pilot" brand, or nothing and make very cheap and won't last.

And if the unit is labelled as "CANBUS error free" etc. the resistor in them eats power and make heat that can kill the LEDs. see Smokin' hot CANbus LED lamps. (230C in open air.) - YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkPGqM0Sl64
While that have "161" LED bulb, 1157 CANBUS and others have same problem.