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| How do I remove the stock V6 oil pan (engine in car)? (Page 1/1) |
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OldGuyinaGT
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JUN 19, 04:26 PM
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I'm in the middle of replacing the timing cover gasket (coolant leak near #7 bolt), and I need some advice.
While I was at it, I wanted to replace the oil pan gasket, since it seems to be leaking pretty much all the way around the perimeter. The FSM says all I need to do is take off the flywheel shield, the starter (looks like my mini-starter can stay, though), pull the bolts and out it comes. BUT...
At the front of the engine, the corners of the pan are on studs, and the pan hits the big U-shaped engine mount bracket before it clears these studs. I tried unscrewing them (there's a small hex on the end, maybe 4mm) but I rounded off the ends a bit with a 4mm socket, and they feel like they might break if I use much more force.
Is there some trick I'm missing to get the pan out? If I did get those studs out, could I then get the pan out around the crank and the oil pump? Or would I just hit those? How SHOULD I be trying to remove the oil pan?
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Dennis LaGrua
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JUN 19, 06:28 PM
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You'll need to support the engine and remove both the front engine mount and bracket. Might have to jack the engine up a few inches. After jacking the engine up, I used a 2 x 4 under the balancer and the cradle to keep the front elevated. Then its just a matter of removing the oil pan bolts on the oil pan. Upon assembly use a new gasket and do not forget to put a 1/4" bead of RTV in the corners of where the oil pan goes around the main bearing cap and where it contacts the timing cover. ------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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Blacktree
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JUN 19, 06:56 PM
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Since the harmonic balancer is removed, you'll need to lift and support the engine from above. There's a lifting hook on the front of the engine, near the thermostat neck. You'll need to disconnect the dogbone, too.
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OldGuyinaGT
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JUN 19, 07:39 PM
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I was afraid of that. Thanks, guys. I guess I sort of saw it coming, but I'd hoped the FSM was right.
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fierosound
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JUN 19, 08:03 PM
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Will
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JUN 19, 09:16 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by OldGuyinaGT:
Is there some trick I'm missing to get the pan out? If I did get those studs out, could I then get the pan out around the crank and the oil pump? Or would I just hit those? How SHOULD I be trying to remove the oil pan?
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If your crank pulley were still in place, you'd put a 4x4 under the crank pulley and remove the engine mount bracket. That style of bracket says you have an '88, BTW. You'll also need to remove the engine mount from the cradle and disconnect the exhaust Y-pipe from the catalyst. You CAN get the pan out without dropping the exhaust, though.
If you have the pan off, my *STRONGEST* recommendation is to install a high volume oil pump. You don't need high pressure, and in fact get great results swapping the stock regulator spring into the high volume pump. However, the 2.8's didn't have great oiling to begin with, and as they wear and clearances open up, the oil pressure, particularly at hot idle, goes down. The high volume pump fixes that.
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Rick Vanderpool
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JUN 19, 11:40 PM
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It might be too late to fix, but the heads of the studs are Torx type, not hex.
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Notorio
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JUN 20, 12:11 AM
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When I did that job I jacked the engine up using the oil pan, not the balancer, which was already off. I put Two 4x4s under the end of the crankshaft to gain the clearance needed to work the pan off past the oil pump screen.
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