Fuel pump removal without dropping tank? (Page 1/3)
longjonsilver AUG 06, 06:01 PM
What do you think? is it possible to replace the fuel pump without dropping the tank?
Patrick AUG 06, 06:32 PM

quote
Originally posted by longjonsilver:

is it possible to replace the fuel pump without dropping the tank?



Sure... just cut open a large well-placed hole in the floor.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 08-06-2021).]

IMSA GT AUG 06, 06:44 PM
I'm too lazy to search but has anyone ever left the sender in the tank but installed an external fuel pump in the rear of the car for easier access?

[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 08-06-2021).]

IMSA GT AUG 06, 06:53 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Sure... just cut open a large well-placed hole in the floor.




Didn't someone attempt this already?
Spoon AUG 06, 06:59 PM

quote
Originally posted by IMSA GT:

I'm too lazy to search but has anyone ever left the sender in the tank but installed an external fuel pump in the rear of the car for easier access?




Perhaps someone has done the above mentioned but if the problem is with a rotted hose connection in the tank you'll never know and you'll still have to lower the tank to fix it. Might as well drop it. Remove several hoses, a few clamps and 2 straps. If tank is empty of fuel even better. I've found that it's easier to handle a full tank than one that is half full due to the sloshing around of the fuel.

Spoon

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"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

skywurz AUG 06, 07:16 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Sure... just cut open a large well-placed hole in the floor.




I know you are just joking but it bugs me because the hole would be in the center hump not really the floor... and you cant do just a hole because the rigid lines will get in the way you would have to cut a rectangular section big enough to clear the lines and the top of the sender. and you will still have to disconnect the rubber hoses and the sending unit cables... i suppose you could just cut it all out while you are hacking away at the car.

Patrick AUG 06, 07:41 PM

quote
Originally posted by skywurz:

...and you cant do just a hole because the rigid lines will get in the way you would have to cut a rectangular section big enough to clear the lines and the top of the sender.



Well, I did say "a large well-placed hole".

I installed a performance fuel pump in my '98 JDM Subaru Impreza STi wagon, and it was so easy. There's small panel in the floor behind the back seat. Four screws to remove and voilà... complete access to the top of the fuel tank and the fuel pump!
theogre AUG 07, 02:08 AM
1 big problem adding new pump and leave old one in the tank...
The old pump will restrict flow. Worse if "rust" etc builds up in the pump itself.
Iffy Fuel Flow for any reason not only F the engine but pump itself because fuel is lube and coolant for it.
Is why you have a regulator w/ return line for 99% E-pumps.
(Newer cars w/ one line to engine just move the fuel regulator to the tank and dump extra flow in it. This is reduce Fuel heating and EVAP issues.)

That's if the hose etc doesn't fail as said above and new pump can't suck near bottom.
If the hose fails I think you get ¼ to ⅓ of Full Tank to use by new pump.

New hose must be SAE 30R10 for in tank use. Don't trust hose that may come w/ new pumps. Wrong hose there has been a problem for decades and worse w/ "E10." (May say 10% ethanol on the station pump but maybe less to a lot less depend on location and winter/summer formulas.)

Moving a pump is possible but you have to make a tube w/ a end to fit the pick up "Sock." The sock the first filter to protect the pump. Pumps can take small crap and let filter/screens upstream to block that, but big crap will plug the input or destroy the "impeller."

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

reinhart AUG 07, 05:07 AM

quote
Originally posted by skywurz:


I know you are just joking but it bugs me because the hole would be in the center hump not really the floor... and you cant do just a hole because the rigid lines will get in the way you would have to cut a rectangular section big enough to clear the lines and the top of the sender. and you will still have to disconnect the rubber hoses and the sending unit cables... i suppose you could just cut it all out while you are hacking away at the car.



If you're going yo cut a hole somewhere, why not go in through the bottom of the tank? The hole could be fairly small (3inch diameter vs 8 inch at the top?). You'd have to figure out a way to seal the hole but seems a lot easier that way. I know ome of the aftermarket pumps require one to cut a hole int he tank and then seal it with the install so there's a way to seal it effectively. A small hole in the plastic baffle shouldn't matter much.

If you get a quality GM pump, it should last 100K so I just drop the tank, but some people like to make things "easier".

[This message has been edited by reinhart (edited 08-07-2021).]

reinhart AUG 07, 05:13 AM

quote
Originally posted by Spoon:


Perhaps someone has done the above mentioned but if the problem is with a rotted hose connection in the tank you'll never know and you'll still have to lower the tank to fix it. Might as well drop it. Remove several hoses, a few clamps and 2 straps. If tank is empty of fuel even better. I've found that it's easier to handle a full tank than one that is half full due to the sloshing around of the fuel.

Spoon





Let's see, fuel weighs 8 pounds per gallon so a full tank is 100 pounds including the metal. That's easier for you to handle then say 3 gallons or 25 pounds sloshing or even 50 pounds sloshing?