 
     |
| need a new starter?? (Page 1/1) |
|
katie80
|
SEP 10, 02:28 PM
|
|
I have an 84 2.5. I was diagnosing an issue and cranking the engine a lot. I only went for about 15 sec at a time, probably a minute or so between attempts. I thought I had killed the battery. I disconnected it overnight. this morning I connected it again and the lights came on. I tried to start it and it clicked and died. I tried to jump it but it did the same thing. I went to disconnect the other car and the jumper cables were smoking at the fieros end. (they were not backwards or connected wrong.) is my starter shorting out? mine was already kinda on the way out before this. the fusible link didn't seem to blow or anything.
edit: after writing this I figured I should disconnect the battery from the car. the voltage started climbing from around .5v up. not on a charger or anything right now.[This message has been edited by katie80 (edited 09-10-2021).]
|
|
|
|
skywurz
|
SEP 11, 09:53 AM
|
|
|
|
theogre
|
SEP 12, 10:31 AM
|
|
Battery is functionally "dead" @ or < 11.9 volts.
If battery < 11v can be bad or need charging at low rates... rates of 6 to 10 amps Max taking an hour or more.
If battery is charge to 12.6-13v and stay there discon to anything then likely good...
If still won't start can be battery cables, starter motor or other things.
See my Cave, Battery etc.
Starter motor, solenoids and iffy cables can heat up fast and die for that heat when abuse like the statements above.
Starter motors and solenoids have 1-2 minutes Max On Time then need 20-30 minutes or more Off Time to cool down.
Case of these maybe warm to hot doing that but inside the coils and other parts are way hotter and can start "burning" the wire insulation.
⚠️ When replacing starter, replace battery cables too. Cable may look ok to you can be dead and have big problems carrying 100-200 amps.
Most starters draw 120-150 amps to run If everything is good... Crap cables and more make starter draw more amps.
See my Cave, Electric Motors------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
|
|
|
|
katie80
|
SEP 12, 02:44 PM
|
|
that is actually a different issue I already dealt with, but thank you. I actually replied on that thread.
|
|
|
|
katie80
|
SEP 12, 02:48 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by theogre:
Battery is functionally "dead" @ or < 11.9 volts.
If battery < 11v can be bad or need charging at low rates... rates of 6 to 10 amps Max taking an hour or more.
If battery is charge to 12.6-13v and stay there discon to anything then likely good...
If still won't start can be battery cables, starter motor or other things.
See my Cave, Battery etc.
Starter motor, solenoids and iffy cables can heat up fast and die for that heat when abuse like the statements above.
Starter motors and solenoids have 1-2 minutes Max On Time then need 20-30 minutes or more Off Time to cool down.
Case of these maybe warm to hot doing that but inside the coils and other parts are way hotter and can start "burning" the wire insulation.
⚠️ When replacing starter, replace battery cables too. Cable may look ok to you can be dead and have big problems carrying 100-200 amps.
Most starters draw 120-150 amps to run If everything is good... Crap cables and more make starter draw more amps.
See my Cave, Electric Motors
|
|
I definitely fried my starter then. I probably had 50/50 on/off time. I took the battery cable and the cables to the electronics off the starter and connected them as if they were still attached to the starter, the car didn't die like it did with the starter connected. I bought a new starter, getting it Tuesday I think. I'll order a new battery cable too, mine is kinda screwed up from the previous owner anyway (everything I didn't replace when I had the engine out is coming back to bite me now.)
|
|
|
|
theogre
|
SEP 13, 10:05 AM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by katie80:
I definitely fried my starter then. I probably had 50/50 on/off time. I took the battery cable and the cables to the electronics off the starter and connected them as if they were still attached to the starter, the car didn't die like it did with the starter connected. I bought a new starter, getting it Tuesday I think. I'll order a new battery cable too, mine is kinda screwed up from the previous owner anyway (everything I didn't replace when I had the engine out is coming back to bite me now.) |
|
For battery cables... Replace Both cables. Get ACDelco ones. Not "generic" ones w/ Lead terminals for side mount terminal batteries.
ACDelco made same as OE GM (just change plastic on the battery ends since 1990's) and works better then the generic cables.
Can pull out/off the bolt and plastic to coat the metal w/ brake or silicon grease to prevent water damage helps a lot.
See my Cave, Wire Service
Don't over tighten. Reason "battery wrenches" for side term batteries are made small to prevent this.
"Factory" tool is actually a weak "torque wrench" so factory and dealer service won't wreck the battery.
|
|
|
|
Dennis LaGrua
|
SEP 13, 11:20 AM
|
|
|
The big chain auto stores have testers that can check your starter but when you try to start you should never hold the key on for more than 5 seconds at a time. Keeping the starter on more than that can overheat it and cook the unit. If the engine doesn't start within a few tries then its an engine problem.
|
|
|
Patrick
|
SEP 13, 03:16 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by katie80:
I bought a new starter, getting it Tuesday I think.
|
|
It's probably too late now... but a popular upgrade is to install a later model GM starter that is physically smaller, wires up directly, works every bit as well, and is much lighter. Good info in This thread.[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 09-13-2021).]
|
|
|
|
katie80
|
SEP 16, 12:45 AM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
It's probably too late now... but a popular upgrade is to install a later model GM starter that is physically smaller, wires up directly, works every bit as well, and is much lighter. Good info in This thread.
|
|
I got a remanufactured acdelco unit off rockauto and WOWEE that spins quick!! it fixed my issue. I pulled the distributor to diagnose an ignition issue (never done before, marked the wrong spot for the timing and had to start from scratch... perfect 8° BTDC just eyeballing it.)
|
|
|
|