Almost there.. need some advice (Page 1/2)
SemperFi18 OCT 04, 12:42 AM
Alright.. I'm getting real close to this rebuild being done. Here's my issue.

Had a wiring issue that I figured out, a wire was getting hot that went to the starter, ended up having the small starter ground hooked up hot.. it was a long day. Fixed that issue.

Now when I hook up the battery, the cab gets power. Dome lights work, door chime.. Everything. Car cranks, I get oil pressure, I can hear oil flowing. But the check engine light does not come on when I turn the key on. Plus the brake light, oil pressure and voltage lights stay on even with the key out... Something is wrong. If anyone has had this issue I would appreciate some help. It's a simple stroker rebuild out of a 86 2M6.

The fuel pump will not prime, fuse is good, reset ECM.. I'm at a dead end
theogre OCT 04, 08:53 AM
F-pump not prime =
Wire(s) for relay or pump has problems.
ECM is "dead" not sending power to turn on relay. Just 1 bad solder joint inside of ECM = dead ECM even if seems to work otherwise.
Relay is bad. Switch FP and AC clutch rellays, same part.

Connect ALDL G to 12v and see if the pump will even start that way...

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 10-04-2021).]

TXGOOD OCT 04, 02:56 PM
Have you checked the 10 amp ECM fuse in #1 ?
I had that problem over the weekend.
I swore I checked that fuse but when I went to look at it as a last resort it was blown.
SemperFi18 OCT 04, 09:58 PM

quote
Originally posted by TXGOOD:

Have you checked the 10 amp ECM fuse in #1 ?
I had that problem over the weekend.
I swore I checked that fuse but when I went to look at it as a last resort it was blown.



Checked the fuse with a meter, all fuses are good. The ECM is failed but I'm concerned hooking up a new one if there's an issue. I didn't do anything to the electrical, but had a ground hooked up hot and it appears the terminal burnt is the ground fire the ECM.

Followed all procedures and I'm getting no SES light or codes. Problem is, my dash indicator lights stay on (brakes,oil,volts) stay on with the key out.. forever. Have to disconnect the battery. I don't see this ****ing car is having so many issues. One little mistake on the starter and it fries the computer? Why are there fusible links and a fuse? I thought those were meant to protect it....
SemperFi18 OCT 04, 11:18 PM
What's the overall opinion of the best place to buy a plug and play ECM? I'm over it with this car, apparently I'm the only one who's had this issue... So I just gonna start throwing parts at it
SemperFi18 OCT 04, 11:22 PM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

F-pump not prime =
Wire(s) for relay or pump has problems.
ECM is "dead" not sending power to turn on relay. Just 1 bad solder joint inside of ECM = dead ECM even if seems to work otherwise.
Relay is bad. Switch FP and AC clutch rellays, same part.

Connect ALDL G to 12v and see if the pump will even start that way...


No fuel when I jump G to 12v, ECM smells like bad electrical.. if I slightly jiggle the connectors I get small sparks. My main concern is the dash lights staying on with the key out. I don't want to plug a new ECM in there and fry that too. I had one electrical short that I fixed. Now this can of worms

I have spark, car fires up briefly when I put gas in the throttle body. No SES light at ALL, and no fuel pump prime. Someone has had to have had this before
theogre OCT 05, 08:39 AM
ALDL G is Direct connect to F-pump.
Power there and pump won't run then pump or wires to it is discon C502 C203, wires cut, pump dead.

All Dash lights On is major problem w/ dash. You can't turn all On even w/ I-key in Bulb Test next to Start.
Seat beat light runs only by the chime unit.
CEL only by ECM
Unless you "Fix" temp light and gauge factory problem, temp light doesn't turn on except sender on engine is hot.

Dash "board" likes to have problems w/ "glue" attaching copper to plastic and glue fails. Then Very easy to short out 1 to many things at big plugs on back.
SemperFi18 OCT 05, 08:16 PM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

ALDL G is Direct connect to F-pump.
Power there and pump won't run then pump or wires to it is discon C502 C203, wires cut, pump dead.

All Dash lights On is major problem w/ dash. You can't turn all On even w/ I-key in Bulb Test next to Start.
Seat beat light runs only by the chime unit.
CEL only by ECM
Unless you "Fix" temp light and gauge factory problem, temp light doesn't turn on except sender on engine is hot.

Dash "board" likes to have problems w/ "glue" attaching copper to plastic and glue fails. Then Very easy to short out 1 to many things at big plugs on back.



The only lights that are on all the time is the oil light by the guage, the volts light and the brake light. Dome goes off when I shut the door. Not getting full lights on the dash, just those three and no SES ever
SemperFi18 OCT 05, 08:18 PM
Unless I pull the dash fuse, then the SES light comes on. So I know it's not the bulb. ECM is fried, but I don't know how. Took it apart and it looks perfect, but the connectors have an electrical smell. ECM was fine before the rebuild, brand new fuel pump that worked before the rebuild
SemperFi18 OCT 05, 09:22 PM
Okay... So if I eliminate the ECM the dash light issue goes away. Door chime works, still no SES obviously. Headlights and motors work. I think I fried it when I hooked up a small ground wire to hot on the starter. (Even with fuses and fuses disconnects...) I'm just going to get a new ECM and see if it fries that one too.

Where is the best place to buy a plug and play ECM? I'm not sure if my PROM is fried or not, Fiero store you have to use your existing one and I'm not paying their prices. Is RockAutos any good? My junk yard in town sucks so salvage is not an option