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| TOTALLY REBUILT BUT WON'T START, TIMING? (Page 1/2) |
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eti engineer
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OCT 15, 07:12 PM
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Well, I finally got the '88 back together and tried to start it this morning. I have everything I need to make it run. I have spark, I have 35 psig oil pressure just from the starter cranking it, I have fuel getting to the injectors and pressure in the fuel rail, etc.
Some background...
I had to replace the harmonic balancer. The one I ordered came with no TDC marking on it and instructions stating that I would have to find TDC and make my own mark. I did this while the engine was on the stand and had the valve covers off. Easy thing to do, then.
The one thing that I may have screwed up on was while the engine was on the stand, I was turning the engine over by hand and oiling things as I went. I also used my drill to spin the oil pump to ensure it was primed and oiling the engine. But in turning the engine over by hand, even though I was trying to keep track of TDC, I may have messed up. I didn't think I did, but my timing may be 180 degrees out.
I tried to advance the timing as much as possible to see if this would change anything, but due to the cramped quarters around the distributor itself, I was not able to rotate it much.
When the engine is being cranked by the starter, it sounds like it is spitting back through the intake, but there is no fire like there is with a carburetor. Maybe this is because of the fuel injection?
I also tried some starter fluid to no avail. This is why I think it may be a timing issue.
So, should I pull the distributor and turn the engine 180 degrees, re-install it and try to start or would this be a bad idea? I can't pull the valve cover as the intake manifold prevents me from getting the two inboard bolts. With the intake manifold right over the top of the valve cover, it looks like I might not be able to pull it anyway.
I'm all ears. Any way to determine TDC without removing the valve cover? I'm sure I am not the first one to have done this, but I couldn't seem to find anything like what I need.
Thanks...
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pmbrunelle
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OCT 15, 07:27 PM
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If you unscrew the oil fill cap, you can either look (with your eyes) or feel (with a finger) the rocker arms nearest the fill cap.
Observing those rocker arms, you should be able to figure if the distributor is 180° off or not.
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Patrick
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OCT 15, 07:50 PM
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Take #1 spark plug out, turn crank by hand with finger in spark plug hole... when feeling compression, use a straw in spark plug hole to determine TDC.
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olejoedad
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OCT 15, 07:54 PM
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My bet is that the dizzy is out 180.
Not an uncommon error....
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eti engineer
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OCT 15, 09:54 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by pmbrunelle:
If you unscrew the oil fill cap, you can either look (with your eyes) or feel (with a finger) the rocker arms nearest the fill cap.
Observing those rocker arms, you should be able to figure if the distributor is 180° off or not. |
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Unfortunately, my valve cover has a baffle that prevents me from being able to do that. The oil fill cap on my car is between cylinder 3 and 5 on my car. There is a PCV by cylinder 1.[This message has been edited by eti engineer (edited 10-15-2021).]
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eti engineer
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OCT 15, 09:58 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
Take #1 spark plug out, turn crank by hand with finger in spark plug hole... when feeling compression, use a straw in spark plug hole to determine TDC. |
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This will require two people, but I can get a neighbor to help, or maybe I can hook up a compression checking gauge and do it this way. I'll have to see.... Thanks....
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Patrick
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OCT 15, 10:07 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by eti engineer:
This will require two people...
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It's been a long time since I've tried/had to do this... but wrench in right hand on crankshaft bolt, finger of left hand in #1 spark plug hole... no?
If this is difficult to do, perhaps first just pull the distributor and reinstall it rotated 180° as has been suggested.[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-15-2021).]
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eti engineer
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OCT 15, 10:10 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by olejoedad:
My bet is that the dizzy is out 180.
Not an uncommon error.... |
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Thanks... There are a few good pointers in here to try. I will do these first and see if I can determine this. Do you see any harm in just putting the engine at TDC with the distributor rotor at cylinder 1 as it is right now, pulling the distributor and turning it 180 degrees and reinstalling it? If it was right to begin with, could I damage anything if the spark occurs way out of whack? I have had this happen before on old engines and there was no damage, just backfiring though the carb and a lot of explosion noise (LOL)!!! I just don't want to damage anything on this fresh engine.
I have built/repaired several engines, transmissions, etc, but have never really worked on a mid-engine vehicle before. Whole new experience!!!!
Thanks...
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pmbrunelle
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OCT 15, 10:10 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by eti engineer:
Unfortunately, my valve cover has a baffle that prevents me from being able to do that. The oil fill cap on my car is between cylinder 3 and 5 on my car. There is a PCV by cylinder 1.
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Well the firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6.
If you're at #4 TDC compression, the #5 cylinder will have just finished its intake stroke, with the #5 intake valve closed not long ago.
If you're at #1 TDC compression, the #5 intake valve will not have moved in a while.
That's how you tell the difference.
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eti engineer
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OCT 15, 10:12 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
It's been a long time since I've tried/had to do this... but wrench in right hand on crankshaft bolt, finger of left hand in #1 spark plug hole... no? |
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Maybe. There is a lot to work around to be able to do this in that tight engine bay. I will see what I can do, but thanks to you and others in here, I have some options now.
Take care....
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