headlight won't go up (for a bit) (Page 1/2)
katie80 NOV 02, 08:46 PM
I just rebuilt my passenger side headlight motor and now, sometimes, when I put the headlights up, the passenger one takes a minute to join the driver one. my battery has also been draining completely from time to time and I have a feeling this may be related. anything I should look into for this? thanks!
IMSA GT NOV 02, 09:04 PM
Katie, see this thread. It is probably related to the rebuild:
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/099892.html

Make sure to read the warning from theogre. It is important since he is the expert in those motors.

[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 11-02-2021).]

buddycraigg NOV 02, 09:44 PM
I just posted in the other thread as well.

(I might know a thing or two about the gen 1 head light system.)
katie80 NOV 02, 09:50 PM

quote
Originally posted by IMSA GT:

Katie, see this thread. It is probably related to the rebuild:
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/099892.html

Make sure to read the warning from theogre. It is important since he is the expert in those motors.




jeez, well I'm glad my house, and more importantly, my fiero didn't burn down. I can turn the knob enough to hit the switch but it squeaks like plastic on rubber so I guess I must've got that in wrong. I'll have to fix that soon. thanks.
theogre NOV 02, 10:42 PM
you need to pull the plugs on gen1 motor(s) until fix.

Repeatedly drain the battery even < 10-11V then battery have problems even after charging by battery charger.
If takes a charge likely will have a very short life.

If Jumped then drive w/ a "dead" battery can wreck the alt too.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

katie80 NOV 02, 11:20 PM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

you need to pull the plugs on gen1 motor(s) until fix.

Repeatedly drain the battery even < 10-11V then battery have problems even after charging by battery charger.
If takes a charge likely will have a very short life.

If Jumped then drive w/ a "dead" battery can wreck the alt too.




the top limit switch seems to be just fine. could I just open the lights and unplug them? also I had the battery tested and it is within spec for CCAs. If I have to replace it I'll do it next winter. it's only been drained two or three times.
cvxjet NOV 03, 12:08 AM
I rebuilt one (85) motor. Worked well but...battery went dead overnight once for "No apparent reason". Rebuilt 2nd motor.....Motor was clicking and then overheating- by the time I disconnected it, it was up to 180 degrees.....the next day I had a friend over and was explaining the situation...Had not run the HL motors that day at all...TAPPED the manual knob while explaining....as I finished I heard a sound....felt that motor and it was hot.....

I then decided to swap in the 87-88 HL motor system.....You need a harness (From C100 firewall connector to all front lights) and the motors (Which are still available) and the control module.....I also installed a key-operated relay on the main power wire so the HL motors cannot run when key is removed- EVER!
katie80 NOV 03, 01:06 AM
I took the motor out again and there is nothing clearly wrong. all the seals were in their places. I thought about it and I think this actually started before I rebuilt the motor. I remember I let my brother drive the car and the headlight didn't go up. this was before I rebuilt the motor.

here is the driver's side headlight motor knob https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/5zxlGNiZihuJ

here is the passenger side
https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/5YmoaqqW1mTM
katie80 NOV 03, 12:33 PM
I took the motor apart again and there is nothing wrong that I can tell. the passenger side needs like 4 or 5 rotations of the knob to hit the switch from when it starts getting tight and the drivers side needs 2 or 3 rotations. ??????? it seems to close all the way sometimes but I don't know what's up at all. it sounds like metal dragging when I turn it.

https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/yDhNhAlbrMXX
theogre NOV 03, 01:49 PM

quote
Originally posted by katie80:
the top limit switch seems to be just fine. could I just open the lights and unplug them? also I had the battery tested and it is within spec for CCAs. If I have to replace it I'll do it next winter. it's only been drained two or three times.

All it takes is 1 deep discharge to have a short life battery.
Battery tested w/ what tool(s)...
Dumb load testers will often pass after charging. example: https://www.harborfreight.c...ad-tester-61747.html
Computer testers may or may not pass depending on how are programed etc.
Even if passed now, may have battery problems in near future. If under warranty, make sure you test again before warranty runs out. If you lost the receipt then most goes by date code/sticker or Serial No on the battery.

I left a dash cam plugged in 1 time to drain the battery and very soon after computer testing failed and replace under warranty. But Passes w/ Dumb Load tester.

Open hood, turn on HL or turn knob up, then pull motor connectors.
Better in this case... discon battery then pull motor connectors.
Why?
If a limit switch fail to disconnect, the plugs can spark/burn. those plugs like most others are not switches and won't like treated like them.

Battery cables don't like being switches either but heavy cable ends tolerate that better.