 
     |
| Fiero Store Side Mouldings or Repaint? (Page 1/3) |
|
saaron
|
NOV 09, 07:50 PM
|
|
Hello all. I'm getting my 88GT (all original) repainted with factory red. Panel-off paint job.
I can have all the side moulding repainted (it is faded, but in good shape) or I can replace it all with Fiero Store offering.
Cost not being a factor. Anyone have an opinion on which way to go? Thanks! --steve
|
|
|
|
skywurz
|
NOV 09, 08:54 PM
|
|
|
Originals are not painted. Ive seen painted ones and they look awful especially once the get a door ding and chip.
|
|
|
|
pmbrunelle
|
NOV 09, 09:02 PM
|
|
I don't know about the smooth trim, but on my ribbed trim Fieros, the sidemarkers were definately painted.
In some areas, the black wore through to the transparent plastic underneath, allowing light to leak from undesired spots.
I had to repaint the sidemarkers to solve that problem.
For the rear bumper you have no choice; you have to paint it.
If all the trim is painted using the same paint, at least everything will match. That said, black is usually pretty easy to match.
|
|
|
|
saaron
|
NOV 10, 04:20 PM
|
|
Good to know about the rear mouldings needing to be repainted. The quote I just received for a full paint job included that, so apparantly the shop was aware of that.
Just so folks on the forum can have a point of reference (which I know I would appreciate) the quote was for 60 hours of body work and 30 hours of paint work for a total of $5,580 in labor. Another $1,300 in supplies. Grand total of $6,980.
This number kinda shocked me, if i'm being honest. I was hoping for something more like $3K but I have no point of reference as I've never had a car repainted before. Anyway, just thought I'd share. Aslo, for more context, the car does not need any body work. It is in great shape other than the paint is super faded and clear coat has failed, so this is just a repaint.
Back to the side moulding question: If I have them paint the side mouldings, it will be another $300. I can buy the Fiero Store side moulding kit for $164. So cost is not really a factor in the side moulding decision.
I was hoping to hear from someone who had purchased the Fiero Store side mouldings and could comment on their quality/look vs repainted originals.
If you are out there and have an opinion, please share.
Thanks!
--steve
|
|
|
|
InTheLead
|
NOV 11, 04:33 AM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by skywurz:
Originals are not painted. Ive seen painted ones and they look awful especially once the get a door ding and chip. |
|
Looks even worse when you have new moulding pieces mixed in with the old ones, that are not replaceable and part of the fascias. There's no reason not to scuff and repaint it all at the same time if you want it all to match. If you scuff the surface properly prime and use the propert adhesion promoter and paint with flex agent it will all look great and be very rugged.
|
|
|
|
saaron
|
NOV 11, 08:40 AM
|
|
|
Yeah. I guess since the rear bumper moulding strip has to be painted, and the cost difference is minimal, I am going to go with a repaint of all of it. Thanks for the guidance. I'll upload some before and after pictures when it is done.
|
|
|
|
IMSA GT
|
NOV 11, 09:41 AM
|
|
|
Looks like I chimed in too late but I would have gone with the new molding from Fierostore. As mentioned before, that type of flexible plastic is a nightmare to prep correctly to actually get paint to stick. Most shops simply sand and paint which results in easy chipping.
|
|
|
|
InTheLead
|
NOV 11, 10:30 AM
|
|
|
|
theogre
|
NOV 12, 12:22 PM
|
|
Yes, side trim and most Fiero rocker panels aren't painted from GM.
Front/back trim under those faces is often same.
"Faded" plastic often not Faded but Oxidize Plastic that changes not only color but actual plastic surface too. OE Plastic maybe "water proof" etc but Oxide surface can hold road salt and other road crap and hard to clean by any methods.
I think the side trim and related parts is Polypropylene and that doesn't take most paints and primers to start with.
Often won't take many paints claim is made for most plastics.
PP is close to paint hater Teflon. Often most "glues" of any type won't work w/ PP for same reason. (LDPE and HDPE often hate most paints primers and adhesives too.)
"Normal" paints/primers may seem to stick but crack up, flake off or peel off the whole part.
Besides normal prep work, have to clean and not leave anything behind including cleaner. But Unlike painting metal... May take hours to days to dry off after final cleaning because "Small" scratches and Oxide plastic can hold crap or cleaners. May help if can put in sun light or hot box to warm up the part to 100-120°F. If outside, don't leave overnight so dew etc gets on the part before painting.
If you sand and clean the surface, PP and some other types can be "polish" by heated them. Very Careful use of a propane torch or heat gun can work. But if/when you overheat, you will ruin the part.------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
|
|
|
|
Notorio
|
NOV 16, 05:51 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by saaron:
Just so folks on the forum can have a point of reference (which I know I would appreciate) the quote was for 60 hours of body work and 30 hours of paint work for a total of $5,580 in labor. Another $1,300 in supplies. Grand total of $6,980 ...
|
|
Gasp!  You should definitely get two other quotes and carefully review the shops' feedback on line. It would also be nice to see an example of 'work in progress' so you can form an opinion of how the shop is maintained, the quality of the supplies being used, etc. Now it was back in 1978 that I worked in a body shop doing 'body work' and 'paint work' but I'll say that 60 hours of body work on a car that only has cracking clear coat seems extremely padded. Likewise on the paint work. If I had taken 60 hours on a panels-off job like that on a tiny little car like ours I would have been discretely disposed of in the nearest landfill ...
|
|
|
|