88 Fiero e-brake adjustment (Page 1/1)
DanMFiero88 DEC 04, 04:13 PM
Hi everyone,

I am trying to adjust my 88 Fiero’s e-brake, but I can’t figure out what it is that I’m supposed to be adjusting.

I’ve looked at the Service, Haynes, and Chilton manuals. I’ve looked at Ogre’s Cave and searched this forum. I’ve looked at what YouTube videos that are out there. And I still can’t figure it out.

I’ve turned the nut on the left side of the picture. I hear cable tension going on, but it seems to back to the original position when I stop turning.

The handle feels good. There’s tension, and it ratchets. I can see cable tension going on when my son pulls the handle. However, I can still fairly easily turn the wheels by hand when the brake is on. It is definitely not keeping the car from moving. That’s a fail on the Texas Safety Inspection, so I can’t just put it in gear when parking.

Thanks in advance!
theogre DEC 05, 10:39 AM
You need 2 wrenches to adjust. or wrench and visegrips etc. to hold the the rod while turn nut.
But already at limits means have other problems....

Can be any or all cables are bad and adjusting bad cable(s) won't help.
Wheel cable jackets can rust or break cause binding or other problems.

88 calipers have same problem as others because work same just different diameter.
Big sign pads have Too Much Clearance and Adjusting the cables Won't Help you when true.

Temp Fix try the "adjustment" in the cave at calipers.
But be warned... expect is only very temporally and if pads bind/drag for any reason can cause brake fading to fires.

See my Cave, Rear Brake Adjustment notes & Shim notes

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

DanMFiero88 DEC 05, 04:25 PM
Thank you!! I was hoping you’d respond - clearly one of the experts.

I don’t know what I have. I don’t think that the original owners (woman who bought it and her grandson) ever did any maintenance on the car, including the brake system for about 20 years. Maybe a little less. The last time the car passed Texas inspection was 2001 according to CarFax. The grandson is college-age so I’m pretty sure he never did anything with it. It was garage kept. I suspect he didn’t want to put in the work, and he’s really big anyway.

Based on your response I think that the adjusting nut is at the limit of travel, correct? Is that at max or min tension? I’m guessing it’s a max tension but I want to be sure. I can see cable travel at the rear brakes when the e-brake is pulled. The cables don’t pull enough to stop wheel movement though.

Thanks again for your response. I’d like to think that I’m reasonably intelligent, but stuff like this makes me feel like an idiot. This car has cemented the fact that I’m a visual learner.

Dan
theogre DEC 05, 06:27 PM
Above pic shows "Max Tension."
Other end of the thread is "Min Tension."

Ideally you try to be in center 1/3 to 1/2 of the thread section.
Never near either end.

Almost everything in cave applies to 88 but how things are mounted and some other things are different.

My guess is one or both caliper levels do very little or nothing and very easy to move other then compressing the external spring you see.

Cables maybe crap too.
Quick test is pull wheel cable jackets and watch the ends.
Those ends are crimp on the jacket and should not move.
But Ends may move a little in the bracket/holes, or a lot if the locking ears are broken.

Note: Hand level should work at 8-9 clicks max.
To apply, Press the pedal film then pull handle.
But likely even that won't work.
DanMFiero88 DEC 10, 10:26 AM
Thanks again, Ogre. Cables, connector, and equalizer arrived yesterday. The cables are installed - now I need to connect everything and adjust for proper tension. I’m hoping that will do the trick.

Dennis LaGrua DEC 11, 03:30 PM
We found that adjusting the cable nut for the right tension was always a pain until we purchased a set of ratcheting open end wrenches. I highly recommend these for adjusting the eBrake. Makes the job so much easier

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Rsvl-Rider DEC 12, 04:49 PM
Are you sure the P-brake levers on the rear calipers are actually activating the pistons?

Sometimes you get a satisfying click, click click and you can feel the tension on the P-brake handle but nothing is happening inside the caliper piston. You're just feeling the handle taking up some slack in the system and the piston internals are frozen up after sitting for so long.

[This message has been edited by Rsvl-Rider (edited 12-12-2021).]

reinhart DEC 15, 04:03 AM

quote
Originally posted by DanMFiero88:


The handle feels good. There’s tension, and it ratchets. I can see cable tension going on when my son pulls the handle. However, I can still fairly easily turn the wheels by hand when the brake is on. It is definitely not keeping the car from moving. That’s a fail on the Texas Safety Inspection, so I can’t just put it in gear when parking.
[/IMG]



My guess is you need to rebuild the rear calipers. The ebrake adjustment as the pads wear is inside the calipers.
ZaraSpOOk DEC 16, 04:10 PM

quote
Originally posted by DanMFiero88:
I’ve turned the nut on the left side of the picture. I hear cable tension going on, but it seems to back to the original position when I stop turning.




if all you are doing is turning the nut you are doing it wrong, you need to put a wrench or vice grips on the rod inside the what-chamma-doodle, then when you turn the nut you are actually moving the rod in or out, there is a lot of adjustment range, I can't believe you have to do ANYTHING the people here are suggesting in the way of new parts until you properly adjust the rod in or out

it's crazy how some people wildly suggest replacing parts until it has been established there is an actual part that has failed or overly worn
they must work in part stores or "service" garages