Looking for '88 Fiero Clutch advise (Page 1/1)
eherzogjr DEC 06, 01:25 PM
Hello, About a month ago I bought a 1988 Fiero GT 5 speed with dealer optioned T-tops and 44,000 original miles. As I understand, the car has been sitting in someone's garage unused for 20+ years most likely due to a cradle rot issue. I have been fortunate enough to find a perfect '88 cradle with suspension arms and had it shipped to me for a reasonable cost. Things that I have done so far:
- removed and thoroughly cleaned the gas tank then sealed with Red-Kote
- cleaned, sealed the donor cradle and suspension arms with Por-15
- removed the old cradle (this forum is awesome with how to steps!!!) My recommended penetrating solution is a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. I did have the cradle bolt spin issue on one of my bolts. I resolved this by making an access door, drilling a 1/4" hole through the cradle nut plate and dropping a 1/4 bolt into the hole to keep it from spinning. It fought me, but it worked!
- removed rear brakes and replaced rear brake lines with stainless steel.
- taking my time doing lots of cleanup and painting with por-15.
- rebuilt and painted rear calipers.

The cradle is currently still out. I currently have no real back and forth to neutral, currently I can only go to/from first, neutral and second. I believe that this is the transmission select cable? Probably my next task. The clutch master cylinder has dry but I have since refilled so I assume that I need to replace clutch line as well. Clutch pedal moves freely. How do I validate the health of the clutch master, slave and the clutch itself? Should I just go a had and replace all while the cradle is still out (BTW using an engine support bar) Clutch line appears very rusty and moist. I will likely replace it with stainless steel as well since I already have the brake line kit. This has been a big project!! My day job it in IT but I love to wrench on things. Looking for some motivational advise. Thank you!!!

[This message has been edited by eherzogjr (edited 12-06-2021).]

Skybax DEC 06, 04:22 PM

quote
How do I validate the health of the clutch master, slave and the clutch itself? Should I just go a had and replace all while the cradle is still out (BTW using an engine support bar) Clutch line appears very rusty and moist. I will likely replace it with stainless steel as well since I already have the brake line kit.



Welcome, properly working clutch hydraulics is critical for a Fiero so everything must be working correctly to get full disengagement of the clutch and prevent premature wear. The GM units are no longer available and the ones sold at parts stores are garbage (both single o-ring), so I would defiantly replace both with quality rodneydickman.com dual o-ring units and any other system parts you need, here is the link... http://rodneydickman.com/in...2404ec105c90d668924e

I would also recommend reading these 2 recent threads where I posted specifics on operation and specs...

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/145692.html

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/145695.html

[This message has been edited by Skybax (edited 12-06-2021).]

Patrick DEC 06, 04:57 PM

quote
Originally posted by eherzogjr:

The cradle is currently still out. I currently have no real back and forth to neutral, currently I can only go to/from first, neutral and second. I believe that this is the transmission select cable? Probably my next task. The clutch master cylinder has dry but I have since refilled so I assume that I need to replace clutch line as well. Clutch pedal moves freely. How do I validate the health of the clutch master, slave and the clutch itself? Should I just go a had and replace all while the cradle is still out?



You've already been given good advice in regards to the clutch master and slave. Yes, get them from Rodney. He also sells the select cable that you need. The select cable for the Getrag is notorious for becoming corroded and then sticking due to water getting into the transmission end of it.

In regards to the clutch, since your engine is stock, get the LUK Clutch Kit (04088). It's inexpensive and durable. Buy it from wherever you like, but do yourself a favor and check the price at RockAuto.
eherzogjr DEC 06, 05:48 PM
Thanks. I have been purchasing most of my stuff from Rock Auto so far with good luck. Purchased the stainless brake lines from inline tube and the rear bushing kit from the Fiero store. You both talked me into it. I will go ahead and drop the tranny since I am probably at least 75% of the way there now to swap/upgrade the clutch. I was originally leaning toword the HD clutch kit at the Fiero store. The only open item is the clutch line. I have never bent and double flared lines before. Is this easy enough to do? The Fiero store is the only place that I have bound a pre-bent stainless 88 clutch line.
Raydar DEC 06, 09:39 PM
The Fiero Store HD Ram clutch is great. I run my 4.9 through one. It's held up nicely.
If you want to save some money, look around for Ram part # 88644HD. It's the same piece that Fiero Store sells. Summit used to sell them, a bit cheaper.
If you don't mind paying a bit extra, Fiero Store probably has them in stock. Otherwise, there may be a bit of a wait, buying from another vendor.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 12-06-2021).]

eherzogjr DEC 07, 09:10 AM
Thank you for the RAM HD clutch part number. I will keep that in my back pocket for when I possibly do an engine swap in a year or so. Last night I had already ordered the LUK 04088 clutch kit from Rock Auto. I hope to get this car up and running soon.