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| Dropping cradle - parking brake cable difficulties (Page 1/2) |
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842m4SE
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DEC 17, 09:06 PM
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I'm looking to replace my clutch, and am in the process of dropping my 84 Duke's cradle in accordance with the alternate method that does not require dropping the engine:
http://www.fierofocus.com/a...20Ken%20Campbell.htm
I've done many of the steps besides the removal of the exhaust, tie rods, and drive axles, but I'm stuck on removing the parking brake cables from the cradle. I've tried the recommended methods like the hose clamps, and I just can't get the damn things loose! The three parts just will not depress, and being inside the cradle I can't access it and it's difficult to get anything in there. I've also tried needle nose pliers on recommendation from a friend with lots of wriggling, and twisting wire which broke off on the clamp....
Here's some pics:
How it looks
From a hole in the bottom - broken wire...
Outside view with needle-nose pliers
I'm considering just cutting the cables at this point but I want to avoid that if at all possible. What methods have worked for you guys? Really just want to get the new clutch in and it back on the road...
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pmbrunelle
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DEC 17, 09:55 PM
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I prefer to undo those cables at the brake calipers, leaving the cradle end attached.
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Dennis LaGrua
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DEC 17, 10:16 PM
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Remove the brake cable from the calipers by compressing the return spring. Wiggle the inner cable out of the arm. Then remove the eBrake cable bracket from the caliper by removing the Torx bolt. Now remove the two caliper bolts and hang the caliper up using an old wire coat hangar or even a piece of strong rope. Finally loosen the cable adjustment lever all the way and separate the eBrake cable from the L and R brake cables by slipping the end out of the connector. Now with water hoses, fuel line, CAI, harness, trans cables and throttle cable removed the cradle should be able to be removed with the exhaust attached. ------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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theogre
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DEC 19, 09:06 AM
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Don't remove cable bracket from the caliper.
Often you damage caliper by removing/installing the bolt or you can't get the bolt tight again and bracket moves using P-brake.
Take cable off/out of caliper bracket.
If have rust/dirt under ears, remove w/ small screw driver etc.
Then compress ears w/ close end wrench, small screw hose clamp, or whatever is handy. I used 1/2" copper tube fresh cut w/ pipe cutter w/o reaming the tube. (Cutter shrinks very end and you need that doing this.) Or tube squeeze down a bit or oval shape.
But very likely wheel cables are iffy to bad...
Pull on cable jacket and watch the ends. the crimp ends should be solid to the jacket so can't move.
------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 12-19-2021).]
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Notorio
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DEC 19, 02:47 PM
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842, the idea of tightening down the wire by twisting suggested another approach to me: zip tie. Place the tie as close to the end of the tangs as you can, leaving just enough space so the tangs will slip through the mounting hole before you have to snip the tie.
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ArthurPeale
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DEC 20, 03:56 PM
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Radical idea - those cables are really rusty. Replace them. You can get all three from Rock Auto for less than $40.
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TXGOOD
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DEC 20, 10:21 PM
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buddycraigg
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DEC 22, 04:37 PM
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I'm sure some will not like my answer.
I normally break them off.
Get under them with a small flat screwdriver and bend them backwards until they snap.
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ZaraSpOOk
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DEC 22, 06:59 PM
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if it's rusty, ain't gonna be easy no matter what you do, but IMO, the easiest way:
securely jack up rear end so you can crawl under and access where both side cables come together, the adjustment screw midway between the wheels under the engine/cradle
if you back out the adjustment, you can easily disconnect at the caliper without fighting the springs and arms
PB B'laster is your friend
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Rick Vanderpool
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DEC 22, 07:28 PM
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Lisle makes a tool that slips over the cable and slides over the end of the sleeve to collapse the tabs and release the sleeve from the hole. The part number is 40750.
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