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| Oil pressure gauge pegs when running, 1988 GT (Page 1/1) |
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John W. Tilford
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DEC 24, 06:36 PM
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Merry Christmas Eve!
After all the oil pressure issues of a couple months ago (oil pump intake tube had fallen off) everything was fine (rebuilt 1995 era 3.4 as in Camero/Firbird) until this morning. Whereas the needle on the oil pressure gauge had been on 40 when running down the road - some less when engine warm and at idle but always above the red - today the needle starts at full flat counterclockwise (270 degrees) when the ignition key is first "on", but pegs at full clockwise (90 degrees) when the engine is running, regardless of rpm. So either I have instantly enough oil pressure to explode the engine or somethings wrong with either the oil pressure sensor or wiring . . ?
After the engine cooled off enough and I removed the passenger side louver panel I tried to unlatch and wiggle off the cap off the sensor. Fingers didn't work on the plastic latch. Started to lever with a flat screw driver but then thought of old plastic snapping off.
What's the most likely issue?------------------
John W. Tilford
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Patrick
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DEC 24, 06:57 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick in This thread:
With my Formula, a pegged (to the right) oil pressure gauge was simply a loose connection at the sender. T'was a ten second repair job. 
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John W. Tilford
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DEC 24, 07:04 PM
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Good!
Thank you, Santa!------------------
John W. Tilford
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theogre
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DEC 24, 08:21 PM
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Yes, pegged full w/ just key on often = sender not connected or bad.
But 88 sender plug is Metri-Pack "Pull to Seat" connector and hard to take apart w/o wrecking it.
See my Cave, Weater/Metri Pack notes
Result often Isn't a 5 - 10 minute check for iffy plug. Even w/ GM tools they are often hard to remove a terminal.
About only quick test...
Careful use a jumper Plug pin A w/ Tan wire to ground.
Do Not force big jumper in this type connector or you will easily wreck the plug.
Do Not confuse w/ Pin D w/ Tan/Wht wire or C w/ Orn/Blk because their use by F-pump Power.
See my Cave, Oil Sensor
Next is measure Ω on the sender pin A and engine. Engine off should read 0Ω. Engine running 0 to 90Ω.------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
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reinhart
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DEC 25, 05:35 AM
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Perhaps water got in the connector for the sensor with it being winter now. Try using a hair dryer to heat up the connector area and see if that does anything.
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John W. Tilford
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DEC 25, 09:11 AM
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reinhart, I squirted some Water Displacement - 40 on the connector yesterday afternoon. We'll test later this Christmas Day.
Ogre's got me pretty cautious about yanking the connector apart . . ------------------
John W. Tilford
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eti engineer
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DEC 25, 09:28 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by John W. Tilford:
reinhart, I squirted some Water Displacement - 40 on the connector yesterday afternoon. We'll test later this Christmas Day.
Ogre's got me pretty cautious about yanking the connector apart . .
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Yeah, when I pulled my '88 engine and tried to disconnect it, it disintegrated. I ended up having to solder the wires to the pins afterwards. No chance of a loose connection now, though. Works fine...
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theogre
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DEC 25, 11:57 PM
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Any plug can break when removed from whatever part...
Big Example: I see more MAP Weather Pack plugs broken because so many are mounted on air cleaner and need to remove the cleaner shell.
Above I mean mess w/ or pull "pins" out of Metri Pack PtS...
Dam near impossible to release them w/o wrecking the pin, shell or both. GM tells/shows how they work in FSM etc but often doesn't remove a pin as shown in the real world.
Very easy to wreck them in other ways too even tho many things are tolerated by other types.
Dorman and others sell pig tails is best to fix these.
Weather Pack and some others can be more easy if you get the tools.
But even when you crimp the ends, often need to solder too because most hand crimpers are weak and crimp alone can't carry rated amps.
Caution: Solder to pins on/in senders etc may seem good but heating to solder often damage the part.
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