Alternator replacement 85 modded to 88 (Somewhat) (Page 1/1)
cvxjet JAN 05, 12:33 PM
I have an 1985 SE V6 manual that has been modified a bit; I swapped in a Getrag 5 speed and 88 rear subframe suspension....Also eliminated the trunk blower and tubes. I do not have A/C or power anything.

Which year Alternator should I be getting as a replacement? I know the later ones had the heatshield- but I suspect that is an add-on Fiero part...not something that comes with the replacement alternator.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Patrick JAN 05, 03:09 PM

quote
Originally posted by cvxjet:

Which year Alternator should I be getting as a replacement? I know the later ones had the heatshield- but I suspect that is an add-on Fiero part...not something that comes with the replacement alternator.



I'd say update to a CS alternator. Good info in this This thread, including discussion on the heat shield.
theogre JAN 05, 06:03 PM
See my Cave, Rabid-Wombat's CS-130 Conversion for 85-87 V6.
84-86 l4 uses same.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Skybax JAN 05, 06:46 PM

quote
Originally posted by cvxjet:

Which year Alternator should I be getting as a replacement?

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.



While I'm in the minority on this subject, I prefer the older style SI over the CS, not just because of my auto tech background or that they are more rebuild-able, but because they are better made / constructed, more heavy-duty, can handle more heat, better heat shield, etc. Don't believe me? Call the 3rd-generation generator shop in my city, he's a mad scientist who knows everything about all starters/alternators for the past 100 years, would make the most savvy PFF member look like a novice on the subject, and I would bet my Fiero on that. <shrug>


quote
Originally posted by cvxjet:

Also eliminated the trunk blower and tubes



I wouldn't do that, they were eliminated in 88 for cost cutting reasons, not solely because of the CS, and those cooling tubes are quite effective despite the false claims of being gimmicky. If you dig into the archives, you will find upgrade to CS from SI and/or removing cooling tubes is not what its cracked up to be, especially if you're not added a bunch of extra electronics and doing a lot of night driving.

[This message has been edited by Skybax (edited 01-05-2022).]

cvxjet JAN 05, 07:33 PM
Thanks for the info; A) I don't drive in traffic anymore, B) Because of my Lupus, I don't drive on hot days (Covered up from sun/lots of clothing and no A/C), C) I haven't got hardly any electrical on my car- no options except 2nd level stereo.

I removed the blower because I found it wasn't ever coming on....at first I thought it was because "Doesn't come on until A/C comes on" (And I don't have A/C...But I have heard/read varying info on that situation.

>> I removed it last week and the alternator died this week << (That is a joke- I actually removed it back around 2010)

Should I get a rebuilt one ($70-80) or a new one ($130-160).....?
Skybax JAN 05, 09:54 PM
New ones or remans are junk with junk components, so if you have an old-school generator shop in your city/town like the one I posted a link to above, its always best to give them an original GM unit that's never been touched (even if you have to get one from another car) and have one of those guru's go completely through it checking everything and rebuild it correctly with quality parts, then you won't have any problems for another 36+ years, and it often cost the same as a new parts store crap unit.
Patrick JAN 05, 11:50 PM

quote
Originally posted by Skybax:

While I'm in the minority on this subject, I prefer the older style SI over the CS, not just because of my auto tech background or that they are more rebuild-able, but because they are better made / constructed, more heavy-duty, can handle more heat, better heat shield, etc.



Can't say I disagree with any of that, especially the rebuildable part... but for anyone who does a lot of stop and go city driving, the CS alternator is preferable IMO due to superior charging ability at lower engine RPMs.
Patrick JAN 05, 11:55 PM

quote
Originally posted by cvxjet:

I removed the blower because I found it wasn't ever coming on....at first I thought it was because "Doesn't come on until A/C comes on" (And I don't have A/C...But I have heard/read varying info on that situation.



Don't know what "varying info" is out there. The trunk blower is supposed to come on any time the rad fan comes on. Yes, it's as simple as that.
cvxjet JAN 06, 02:08 PM
The Haynes manual I had had a diagram that showed the trunk blower- only the A/C version...Now I have the factory manual and it shows both "With A/C" and "Without A/C". But what was interesting was when I was mucking around with that blower, it showed no signs of ever having run.

I now suspect that (As is widely known) the stupid (237*) Fan temp switch was only allowing the fan (And Blower) to come on when I WAS overheating...I have since swapped in a 220* fan switch which works perfectly- It comes on only on hot days when I am stuck in traffic but otherwise stays off- And I haven't had any overheating episodes (Last one was back around 2012- due to the new water-pump PLASTIC impeller slipping on it's shaft)

My plan is to install the blower behind the right-side IMSA scoop and blow air in a tube along the firewall to the dist' and possibly also over on the Alternator.....

[This message has been edited by cvxjet (edited 01-06-2022).]

Skybax JAN 07, 11:21 AM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Can't say I disagree with any of that, especially the rebuildable part... but for anyone who does a lot of stop and go city driving, the CS alternator is preferable IMO due to superior charging ability at lower engine RPMs.



While I do a lot of stop & go driving, 99% of it is in the daylight and I don't have any aftermarket accessories, so I don't see the value of giving up the better made SI for the little gains of the CS on a stock Fiero. If I had a modified Fiero with aftermarket accessories then CS upgrade would make sense to me.