Lock Cylinder Retaining Screw - replacement specs (Page 1/1)
armos FEB 09, 11:14 AM
I'm tearing into the steering column from a late 1984 car.

While doing so, I've discovered that the retaining screw which is supposed to hold the lock cylinder into the column is missing.
The only thing that was holding the lock cylinder into the column is a little metal tab. I've had this column since the 90s and the cylinder never came out, so I guess it was sufficient, but I'd still rather have the screw. The lack of the screw causes a slight bit of "give" that I'd like to tighten up.

That's how I found it - there should be a screw in that hole immediately next to that Torx at bottom left.

This picture is from the old Jazzman tutorial, it shows 2 types of screws that were used on these columns:

This column came from a late 1984. I've read that 1986 was the changeover year for those screws, so I think the screw I need is the one I circled - the Philips head screw with threads at the bottom of the shaft. If somebody knows better then correct me.

Can I just use a generic screw, or would having threads extending the whole shaft cause a problem somehow?
Does anybody know what specs of screw I need to replace this?
theogre FEB 09, 03:13 PM
Maybe never installed when column was made for missing that long.

the screw is to "prevent" car theft and you just pulling out the key but whole lock moves or pulls out.
Might prevent whole lock from pop out from screwdriver but often doesn't do that. Let alone slid hammers used to steel cars.

Thread part just keeps the thing in the column. Smooth section touches the lock.

maybe a drywall screw or other self threader w/ metal tube would work but will "cross thread" the hole. You what to avoid that even when have correct part.
drywall screw and many others likely needs the tip cut so rest grabs the short hole in the column.

If you don't what to damage the column...
Get a rod that fits the smooth section cut long enough so can grab it later.
Then coat the rod w/ RTV, install and let it "dry."
Don't want real glues in case need to replace the lock or work on the column like fixing the common 4 bolts get loose problem.

Drill end of old drill bits could work.

⚠️ If any fix including OE screw can work loose and come out then can cause bigger problems depending just where it ends up.
That why you avoid stripping the column hole.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

armos FEB 12, 12:15 AM
Thanks ogre. I'll probably just leave it without a screw, since it was doing okay without one up to now. If I can separate the relevant piece of the column housing I could bring it into a store and test fit some screws, but I think it would be an ordeal to fish the wiring out of it (and back through again later) for a detail that doesn't seem to matter much.

The main repair it needed was to replace a broken "rack" in the starter switch linkage. Now I can start my car again.
The 4 famous hex screws were still tight on my column, thought about leaving them alone but decided to loctite them. There was something on the threads so I think they were loctited from factory - I wonder if this wasn't done for all columns and that's why they came loose for many people?
This column has the 1984 delay wiper switch but I'm using it in an 86. After researching the 2 systems I think I understand how they're interacting and why it behaves the way it does. I've also decided I like the 1984 system better, so I'm going to leave the old switch in it. I'd rather modify the car to work with that switch.