|
bad voltage regulator? (Page 1/1) |
|
katie80
|
FEB 23, 08:16 PM
|
|
I have an 84 2.5L and I just tested the voltage of the alternator and it was a little above 15v at idle. this is too high correct? sometimes it drops to 14v on the gauge and the seeking idle issue I have stops happening. do I need a new alternator or voltage regulator? is it ok to be that high?
|
|
|
Forrest
|
FEB 24, 07:33 AM
|
|
quote | Originally posted by katie80:
I have an 84 2.5L and I just tested the voltage of the alternator and it was a little above 15v at idle. this is too high correct? sometimes it drops to 14v on the gauge and the seeking idle issue I have stops happening. do I need a new alternator or voltage regulator? is it ok to be that high? |
|
I just had the exact same issue. I think its due to a failing battery. I checked with a multimeter and it read 14.5v so my gauge was showing high. It eventually drops to 13-14v. Again I think the root cause is a failing battery causing the alternator to work harder. You may try putting your battery on a charger. Once its fully charged fire up your car and see if it persists.
|
|
|
theogre
|
FEB 24, 09:06 AM
|
|
Do Not Trust dash gauge. Put a volt meter on battery. ⚠️ If possible put meter to Alt output or red wire to side plug and alt case but often hard to reach and short the alt blowing the thing.
Maybe a low battery cause it or is a side effect of alt problems. Either case need to charge it if < 12v. Crap battery cables won't help.
84 and early cars alt wiring is more complicated then most later years and often causes high volts. See my Cave, Alternator Sense
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
|
|
|
katie80
|
FEB 25, 04:21 PM
|
|
quote | Originally posted by Forrest:
I just had the exact same issue. I think its due to a failing battery. I checked with a multimeter and it read 14.5v so my gauge was showing high. It eventually drops to 13-14v. Again I think the root cause is a failing battery causing the alternator to work harder. You may try putting your battery on a charger. Once its fully charged fire up your car and see if it persists. |
|
I tested with a multimeter and it was at 15v. I'm not sure if it has always been this high or not. the battery failing is not a bad theory I had a couple times where it got shorted by bad wiring and again a burnt out starter. I may get it tested somewhere.
|
|
|
katie80
|
FEB 25, 04:23 PM
|
|
quote | Originally posted by theogre:
Do Not Trust dash gauge. Put a volt meter on battery. ⚠️ If possible put meter to Alt output or red wire to side plug and alt case but often hard to reach and short the alt blowing the thing.
Maybe a low battery cause it or is a side effect of alt problems. Either case need to charge it if < 12v. Crap battery cables won't help.
84 and early cars alt wiring is more complicated then most later years and often causes high volts. See my Cave, Alternator Sense
|
|
I tested the voltage at the positive cable and a body ground and it was 15v. battery cables may be the issue. I planned on replacing them a while ago but never got around to it.
|
|
|
theogre
|
FEB 25, 09:56 PM
|
|
15V is a bit higher then should be... Should be 14 to 14.7v
Read alt sense in cave. Jump alt out to pin A w/ Red wire on side plug. If volt drops then you have wiring problems that need to fix ASAP. Running w/ the test jumper isn't good even if gets lower volts.
Replace an Iffy Battery and/or cables but may not solve this problem. Use ACdelco battery cables w/ all side terminal batteries. Not knockoffs w/ lead battery terminals.
This problem(s) can be grounds, power wires, battery cables and more for 84 car. Even in C500 itself and that could melt or cause fires.
|
|
|