Deciding between a non-running '88 and a running 86. (Page 1/2)
robmox MAR 20, 08:51 PM
I'm looking to buy my first fiero. I've been looking online, and the two biggest contenders to me are an '88 GT whose manual transmission doesn't work, and an '86 that "runs and drives great". Now, the guy who posted the '88 said "Needs clutch pressure plate and throw out bearing replaced" but because it's Facebook, you can't always take that with 100% certainty. I've never rebuilt a transmission, but based on those two things I could do it in about a half day. The issue is, what if that doesn't fix the problem? I'm sure the '86 is okay, but I'm more interested in the 88 because of it's upgraded suspension. What are your thoughts? Does the transmission in the '88 usually have a bunch of gremlins? Or, is this a standard procedure for a car with over 100k miles on it?
Patrick MAR 20, 09:09 PM

quote
Originally posted by robmox:

...an '88 GT whose manual transmission doesn't work



A car that you can't test drive is potentially a parts car. Price accordingly.

And make sure to check the problem areas for rust, before handing over any money.
robmox MAR 20, 09:41 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

A car that you can't test drive is potentially a parts car. Price accordingly.

And make sure to check the problem areas for rust, before handing over any money.



Well said. Though I can probably start it up, and if it's just a clutch issue, probably roll around in 1st gear. I'll have to ask. Thanks!
Patrick MAR 20, 09:50 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

And make sure to check the problem areas for rust, before handing over any money.



This video shows probably the worst problem areas to check out.
Dennis LaGrua MAR 21, 08:35 AM
If the non-running 88 can be purchased cheap enough, the rust areas checked and the engine sounds good it may be worth the risk of buying it. If the transmission is shot you are probably looking at a good amount of money to purchase all the parts to get it running. Original Fiero Getrag 5 speeds are currently going for big money but you can adapt the later FWD transmissions for a more affordable cost. If you also need a new flywheel, clutch, and hydraulic system I would put aside $1000 just for the parts. If the trans is good then a new clutch, flywheel , master and slave cylinders may just do the trick for less than half that. Some diagnostic work needs to be done

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[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 03-21-2022).]

skywurz MAR 21, 10:56 AM

quote
Originally posted by robmox:

based on those two things I could do it in about a half day.



Lol have you worked on a Fiero before?

I would probably lean towards the 88 just because long term its the most desirable and will be worth more. But like lots of people are saying its about price and frame condition. I would also look at miles. In my experience ive seen the v6 develop head gasket problems over 130k. My 88 I picked up for a good price because the oil was milkshake. It seized coming off of the trailer. I swapped in a 60k 88gt motor i expect to only get another 60k.

I would also look at interior condition and look at the hard to find parts and expensive parts like tail light lenses. Also another personal preference id not buy a sun roof car.
robmox MAR 21, 11:12 AM

quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:

If the non-running 88 can be purchased cheap enough, the rust areas checked and the engine sounds good it may be worth the risk of buying it. If the transmission is shot you are probably looking at a good amount of money to purchase all the parts to get it running. Original Fiero Getrag 5 speeds are currently going for big money but you can adapt the later FWD transmissions for a more affordable cost. If you also need a new flywheel, clutch, and hydraulic system I would put aside $1000 just for the parts. If the trans is good then a new clutch, flywheel , master and slave cylinders may just do the trick for less than half that. Some diagnostic work needs to be done



I'm still leaning towards the '88, just because I've dropped the trans out of a few cars. I've never rebuilt one, so I don't know how involved that is. If the damage is more internal, then I'll likely send it to a shop and the cost would be upwards of $1000 just to get the trans rebuilt. If it's just the clutch assembly like the guy said, I'm confident I can do it myself for under $200.
robmox MAR 21, 11:14 AM

quote
Originally posted by skywurz:


Lol have you worked on a Fiero before?

I would probably lean towards the 88 just because long term its the most desirable and will be worth more. But like lots of people are saying its about price and frame condition. I would also look at miles. In my experience ive seen the v6 develop head gasket problems over 130k. My 88 I picked up for a good price because the oil was milkshake. It seized coming off of the trailer. I swapped in a 60k 88gt motor i expect to only get another 60k.

I would also look at interior condition and look at the hard to find parts and expensive parts like tail light lenses. Also another personal preference id not buy a sun roof car.



LOL. I've never worked on a fiero, but I've done an engine swap and a trans swap. I know with the fiero, I'll likely have to take the cradle out which requires a bit more work than just disconnecting a few bolts like the muscle cars (and crapheaps I owned as a teen) I've worked on. How long would you give yourself to remove the trans, replace the clutch, and reinstall (including fluids, bleeding etc.)?
fierosound MAR 21, 11:17 AM

quote
Originally posted by robmox:

How long would you give yourself to remove the trans, replace the clutch, and reinstall (including fluids, bleeding etc.)?



A good job for the weekend.

You'll want to clean up a few other things while you have it apart.

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Dennis LaGrua MAR 21, 12:03 PM
I would say a clutch replacement would take up to 12 hours of labor depending on your skills and how it is done. This assumes dropping the cradle out. If you wish to do the job by jacking up the vehicle, holding the engine in place with a piece of 2 x 4, , tipping the cradle down and working through the driver side wheelhouse that time could be cut in half.