Code 32 EGR Issue (Page 1/1)
Mike in Sydney MAR 26, 06:22 PM
Im having a code 32 issue and I need some ideas.

I've got an '86 GT with the original 2.8L engine. It has 105,000 miles on it. Recently, I've been getting intermittent code 32's. When cold, the car has no codes. When warmed up, it will throw the code. I can stop to refuel or take a break and when I restart the car the code is clear. After it warms up the code reappears. The engine runs fine wil no sputtering, missing, or hesitation.

Vacuum lines are original and appear in good shape. The EGR valve looks good (I haven't taken it off) and the solenoid looks fine. Again, I've not taken it off to check.

I'm hoping you can give me an idea where to start looking for this intermittent fault. I have a new EGR valve and I'm going to get some TFS stainless steel vacuum lines when I'm in the U.S. in June. Do you have any ideas for a replacement solenoid? I'm having trouble finding one.
Skybax MAR 26, 07:46 PM
Most likely EGR solenoid, they are finicky and old, check out this recent 2 page thread... https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/145280.html

[This message has been edited by Skybax (edited 03-26-2022).]

fierofool MAR 27, 08:53 AM
The Check Engine Soon light won't come on until the vehicle is at operating temp and the car is driven over a certain speed. It will sometimes go out while sitting at a stop. It always goes out when the ignition is turned off, and comes back on when certain driving parameters are met.

Test the easy part first. That would be the EGR valve. With the engine cold, unplug the vacuum line at the EGR valve. If you have a Mighty Vac hand vacuum, pull a very light vacuum on the EGR valve. If not, you can just use your fingers.

From underneath the valve, push up on the rubber diaphragm, cap the vacuum port with a finger and while keeping your fingers in contact, ease off on the pressure. The diaphragm should not return to the lower position. If it does, replace the valve. To test the line, connect it back to the valve, and go to the solenoid end of the line and perform the same test. If the diaphragm doesn't stay up, the line has a crack.

Unfortunately, I just converted to the digital EGR and sold my good EGR solenoid.
Mike in Sydney MAR 27, 06:35 PM
PM sent.
Gall757 MAR 29, 02:16 PM
That little elbow connector at the EGR valve may look good, but they dry out and don't seal. That is enough to set off a code 32 now and again. It happened to me.
ZaraSpOOk MAR 29, 08:33 PM
A code 32 is only an indication that the relay *MAY* not be working, at least on an 88
It is not an indication of the state of the rest of the EGR system.

[This message has been edited by ZaraSpOOk (edited 03-29-2022).]

Mike in Sydney JUL 14, 01:40 AM
An update to my Code 32 issue...

Earlier this year, my 2.8L V6 was throwing Code 32 when the engine came up to operating temperature. Turning the car off and allowing it to cool for a bit would extinguish the CEL but as soon as it came back up to temp, the CEL would illuminate and a Code 32 would be recorded.

I purchased a new EGR valve and a rebuilt EGR solenoid (thanks, Kenny). The problem was still there. I think I found the issue however when I discovered a badly degraded vacuum line connector. I replaced it and now the car runs great! It now drops into a perfect 900 rpm idle when warm, no codes at all, gas mileage has increased, and throttle response seems crisper.

Moral of the Story: If your car seems to run poorly, make sure you check for vacuum leaks throughout the system including the connectors between the EGR valve, EGR solenoid, and the vacuum lines.

(BTW, rubber vacuum connectors can be found at most auto supply stores but getting the right diameter can be problematic. I used windshield washer hose with the correct diameter to fit the lines and the ports on the EGR valve and solenoid. These may degrade over time but I've got 5 feet of windshield washer hose for replacements.)

[This message has been edited by Mike in Sydney (edited 07-14-2022).]