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| Post-winter storage startup procedure (Page 1/2) |
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Skybax
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MAR 26, 06:38 PM
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Since springtime is just around the corner in the northern states, many folks will be bringing their hobby car out of winter storage.
I was curious what other Fiero owners do for their post-winter startup procedure to minimize harm? For example...
- Healthy battery was disconnected all winter so I usually put a slow trickle charge on it the day before I fire it up.
- Remove the fuel pump fuse so it doesn't start? (but ignition will still be active, so if there is fuel drips from injectors it could fire up dry)
- Disconnect ignition so there is no spark? (but have to be careful which method you use because you could damage module or other component)
- Crank engine over several times to get oil moving around without actually starting it so engine doesn't fire up dry. (giving starter a break after X amount of revolutions)
Re-connect whichever you disabled (ignition or fuel or both) and let it rip![This message has been edited by Skybax (edited 03-26-2022).]
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greenturnedblue
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MAR 26, 11:07 PM
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Pretty sure pinning the gas pedal to the floor then cranking her will put it into clear floor mode and kill the injectors. you probably want the fuel pump fuse in so that it can build up pressure through the lines. Also if the injectors arent firing is there a point to disable the ignition? You could also take the ignition coil to distributor spark plug wire off
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reinhart
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MAR 27, 08:16 AM
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If you have a garage, why wouldn't you be starting it regularly throughout the winter? Let it idle for 5-10 minutes every 3 weeks.
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theogre
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MAR 27, 10:28 AM
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Disconnected Battery should have been check and charge every few weeks max.
Lead Batteries Self Discharge below 12v does damage.
Disconnect the ICM kills Ignition also kills EFI because ECM never sees Ignition to "Turn On" EFI.
⚠️ Warning: Never Pull HV wires to kill the Ignition. That can wreck the ICM Coil(s) and more.
For DIS just unplug 2 pin power plug to the Brick.
HEI etc unplug the ICM.
That will allow you to crack until see some oil pressure.
But Do Not let the Starter to Crank for > 15 Seconds. More Crank time the Longer you must wait for Time to cool again or will fry the starter, cables, even the battery.
Car sits for months can have brake, Coolant, and other things that fail because no use often wrecks the seals at minimum.
Like Water pump seal sticks to and rust on the shaft "eats" the seal. On top of many people have old/weak coolant that allows "rust" on inside. ------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
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skywurz
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MAR 27, 02:43 PM
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Idk call me a monster but this is what I do
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hunter29
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MAR 28, 05:58 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by reinhart:
If you have a garage, why wouldn't you be starting it regularly throughout the winter? Let it idle for 5-10 minutes every 3 weeks. |
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That’s a really bad idea..
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Dennis LaGrua
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MAR 29, 04:25 AM
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I put Stabil in my gasoline and it preserves the gasoline for 24 months. The battery is kept on a battery maintainer all winter long. Come spring time I just start the car normally. If the oil filter hasn't been removed (changed) the oil pressure should come right up and I don't believe anything will be hurt. ------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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reinhart
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MAR 31, 11:02 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by hunter29:
That’s a really bad idea.. |
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Howso? Isn't that what you do when it isn't winter? Start it? Run it regularly?
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pmbrunelle
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MAR 31, 11:15 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by reinhart:
Howso? Isn't that what you do when it isn't winter? Start it? Run it regularly? |
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Well, when it's driving season, we try to actually drive the car around and get the oil hot enough to drive out any condensation. Even in the summer, it is not ideal to only do very short trips.
In the cold winter, if you start the car, the mixture is rich, so you contaminate your oil faster with fuel and condensation, and just running a bit in your driveway doesn't get everything up to operating temperature.
| quote | Originally posted by reinhart:
If you have a garage |
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I wouldn't do it in the garage... carbon monoxide poisoning ya know?
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theogre
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APR 01, 12:52 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by pmbrunelle:
Well, when it's driving season, we try to actually drive the car around and get the oil hot enough to drive out any condensation. Even in the summer, it is not ideal to only do very short trips.
In the cold winter, if you start the car, the mixture is rich, so you contaminate your oil faster with fuel and condensation, and just running a bit in your driveway doesn't get everything up to operating temperature. |
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Yes, running the engine a few minutes doesn't help and often hurts you because oil need to reach ~ 250°F or more for longer time to drive out moisture and gas then causing more rust and "bad oil" problems.
Running engine while parked won't help brakes or trans.
Transmissions can get condensate problems too and often take a longer time to heat depending where you drive and weather for a given trip.
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