No start after engine cleaning (Page 1/4)
gatorfrey APR 10, 02:37 PM
I have a 3.4 87 GT.
Yesterday, I got a chance to clean the engine compartment. I had removed the crumbling insulation a while back.
This left a film of dust and light grime that accumulated over the years before I got it.
So, up the deck lid went, and I gave it a good bath on a cold engine with Gunk degreaser. Thirty minutes later, I washed it down with a standard water hose and nozzle.
In no rush, I let it sit for 24 hours to dry out. I should back up and mention I thought I heard a pop when gunking it down.
Checking today,and about to move it out of the yard, I have a turns over, no start.
Must have toasted something electrical, I think.
I thought I would be good with keys in my pocket cleaning, and not trying to start it for 24 hours.
Any pointers or ideas ?
theogre APR 10, 04:11 PM
Can be anything the water touched.

Water + whatever crap in it is often Very Conductive.

Quick Examples:
Weather Pack and other plugs are only "weather resistant" not "water proof" and if water got into them can short out.
HEI Tach filter and other parts can hold water and short out. See my Cave, HE Ignition
If engine has DIS then See my Cave, DIS Ignition is for Diero Duke but V6/V8 DIS shares many same problems.

Some May dry out in days to weeks.
May Help for Some plugs to take apart and use compressed air for force water out.
Pull Spark plug wires to help them to dry. Clean out and dry plug holes in head too.
But already tried to start then likely has dead part(s) you have to find and replace.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 04-10-2022).]

Skybax APR 10, 07:46 PM
Unplug, clean/air out, re-plug back in... the 2 connectors going into the ignition coil.
gatorfrey APR 10, 08:06 PM
That, I did.
Now, 12 hours in 80 degree sun, and 10 in 70s night, shes dry.
I was careful not to Jethro Clampet on the downward aftermarket intake.
I figured engine off for 24 hours outside should be enough dry time.
Trying to think if anything in sleep mode. But electrically, I think it should have been a non issue dead.
Will start at coil, and work back from there. Fuel too.
Hey, it turns over. So thats a good sign.
Thanks for assist so far.
gatorfrey APR 11, 01:08 PM
I tested power going into the coil this am. It's there.
With ignition on, and further, turning it over, the other connector is dead (output , as is coil-to-distributor spark plug wire) .
Looks like a new coil is going in. Then we shall see.

[This message has been edited by gatorfrey (edited 04-11-2022).]

Skybax APR 11, 04:24 PM
Careful with those small wire harnesses going to the ignition coil, they are known for failing/breaking internally just after the connector and will cause a no-start condition, that's why I keep a spare one in the trunk, the Fiero Store sells them... https://www.fierostore.com/...px?s=62523&d=251&p=1
gatorfrey APR 15, 02:40 PM
Ok,
Got my coil from the Fiero Store and put it in. Still a turn over, no start.
Checked the following :
Coil tests same as the one I replaced. So power in with key, and no coil output was not the answer.
I eliminated any additional factors including the coil wire to distributor itself , and tied a heavy wire around the coil post.. Other end I held to a multiple decent grounds. No spark, same as before, when turning over.
Next, I checked the two plugs on top of the coil (which the connectors and wire visually look fine). A multimeter shows the gray plug goes hot with ignition on. The black plug going to the base of the distributor shows nothing.
With the grey plug going hot on ignition on, I would tend to think I am good to the coil. My train of thought might be faulty, but it would seem the problem would be upstream.
Distributor ??
What does that black plug from the coil to the base of the distributor do?. And why is nothing coming out of the coil to distributor ?
Connectors and wiring look fine.

[This message has been edited by gatorfrey (edited 04-15-2022).]

Jake_Dragon APR 15, 04:42 PM
https://www.fiero.nl/cgi-bin/main.cgi?ECMCodes
Do you have any codes?

Fuel, Air and Spark.
Spark is easy to check, just pull one of the spark plugs and have your little brother hold it while you crank the engine. If he yells then you have spark. (or you could just ground the plug and watch it for spark)
Fuel is the next step, turn the key on (Do not try to start it) and you should hear the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds.

I had an issue with the relay once where the fuel pump was not running. Look under the left hood hinge.
https://www.fierostore.com/.../Default.aspx?Id=412

How to test
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/144192.html
theogre APR 15, 05:50 PM
Pull the Tach Filter.
See my Cave, HE Ignition & Ground "Myth" notes
gatorfrey APR 15, 06:26 PM

Hope its not the tach filter. I replaced it last month to fix the tach, I did try to not directly spray it . But I did notice the tach jumps normally while turning over.
I am in da woods 100 feet from a bayou, and 30 miles from town. The Fiero is my daily. No scan tool. I have limited tools as all my things are in storage in town,as I just got here from AZ recently.
I did pull the dist cap.There is a cloth wrapped wire wound center to the distributor. There is about an inch of the cloth loose. I cannot imagine how it could be like that long before the surrounding metal vane looking things would take it off.
Raining here. I will check the wider plug at the base of the distributor for voltage with ignition on , once it dries
Surprised no one knows what the wire from coil to distributor base is for....Since it seems to be dead all the time, from two different coils. Distributer module in the base of the distributor bad ?