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| Clutch Fluid Question (Page 1/1) |
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1TrueJeff
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APR 11, 10:12 AM
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So, I will preface this by saying I have only recently inherited a fiero from my father, and this is my first manual vehicle, so sorry for the lack of knowledge.
My clutch fluid reservoir was a little low when I checked all the fluids after getting the car, so I was going to jsut add some more until I took the cap off and see that the fluid is very dark, just shy of black. Does that warrant replacing? And if it does, how do I replace that fluid? Is there like a drain plug somewhere? I am going to make the assumption that it is not that simple, but I'm going to secretly hope that it is.
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Gall757
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APR 11, 11:45 AM
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If the clutch works well, I would remove as much dirty fluid as possible and refill. To get all the dirt out you would need to bleed the system, but it is very easy to get air in there and cause more trouble than you fix. Lots of cars run for years with black fluid.
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RichLo1
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APR 11, 01:02 PM
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It uses DOT3 fluid. Its not that hard to bleed the clutch with 2 people. I personally would just bleed it to flush out the old.
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Skybax
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APR 11, 04:18 PM
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The fluid is dark because it is old and contaminated with the rubber seals breaking down over time. It was probably low due to leaking/seeping past the old seals, so look under the master cylinder inside the front compartment to see of you see any fluid residue, and also look inside the cabin behind the clutch pedal by putting back the carpet material and see if its damp there. The original master/slave were only single O-ring and reaching the end of their useful life, so you might want to consider buying a new master/slave from rodneydickman.com because they are quality dual O-ring units and replace both at the same time. That preventive maintenance a lot cheaper than a new clutch.
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Patrick
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APR 11, 05:25 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Skybax:
The fluid is dark because it is old and contaminated...
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Yes and no. I don't necessarily disagree with you... but if the master cylinder is aluminum (rather than the original cast iron), then the fluid turns black in no time at all.
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Skybax
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APR 11, 10:51 PM
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Originals implied/referring to.
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theogre
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APR 12, 12:59 PM
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Contaminated? Yes.
But Not w/ "rubber" seals or other soft parts.
Is mostly from "rust" and wear particles off of hard steel and Aluminum parts.
You can bleed/flush the brakes and clutch dumping Quarts to Gallons and will turn tan, dark to black very soon after.
Partly because w/o taking the system completely apart, you can never get all old fluid and crap out even when have clean fluid coming out of the bleeders.
While most clutches won't have boiling fluid problems, old fluid has low protection for anti rust and likely Very Wet too.
See my Cave, Brake Fluid------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
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Dennis LaGrua
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APR 12, 05:34 PM
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Most owners don't realize it but DOT brake/clutch fluids don't last forever. Brake fluid is a commonly overlooked but an extremely important part of vehicle performance. It must be routinely changed and two years or 30,000 miles is a typical recommended service interval. Over time brake fluid loses its ability to compress properly and braking action is lost. If your Fiero is running around with old fluid the brake system could fail.
Getting back to bleeding the clutch system; I've had great results using a vacuum bleeder and its a one man operation. ------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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Skybax
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APR 13, 11:06 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by theogre:
Contaminated? Yes.
But Not w/ "rubber" seals or other soft parts.
Is mostly from "rust" and wear particles off of hard steel and Aluminum parts.
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The way I understand it is (talking about older Dot 3 brake/clutch components)...
- dark sediment is the wear particles off metal parts
- dark fluid is the breaking down of rubber parts
- milky brown fluid is moisture/rust present
- green is factory assembly grease and/or copper component tinting fluid[This message has been edited by Skybax (edited 04-13-2022).]
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ZaraSpOOk
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APR 19, 07:58 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by 1TrueJeff:
So, I will preface this by saying I have only recently inherited a fiero from my father, and this is my first manual vehicle, so sorry for the lack of knowledge.
My clutch fluid reservoir was a little low when I checked all the fluids after getting the car, so I was going to jsut add some more until I took the cap off and see that the fluid is very dark, just shy of black. Does that warrant replacing? And if it does, how do I replace that fluid? Is there like a drain plug somewhere? I am going to make the assumption that it is not that simple, but I'm going to secretly hope that it is. |
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you can do it yourself, right hand socket/extension/ratchet, left hand broomstick
open driver window and rear lid
1) loosen bleeder on clutch slave which is on driver side engine towards the front with right hand, fluid should start coming out
2) press clutch with broomstick in left hand, and hold down
3) tighten bleeder
repeat
be sure to refill MC every couple of times, you don't want air going in the MC
do it on a slope with front of car higher than rear
I wouldn't worry too much bout getting air in through the bleed screw at first, until the fluid starts to appear cleaner
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